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Smoke detector chirping at night due to sealed 10-year battery reaching end of life
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Your Smoke Detector Won’t Stop Chirping? The Hidden 10-Year Battery Problem

You come home after being away for a few days and hear it immediately.

Chirp… chirp… chirp.

Your smoke detector won’t stop chirping.

Naturally, you assume the smoke detector battery needs to be replaced. You press reset, maybe flip the breaker, and expect the noise to stop.

Except it doesn’t.

That happened to me recently. I had been away for a while, came into the house, and heard the beeping. I tried hitting reset, but that did nothing. I removed the unit and realized it was hardwired. After some searching, I discovered the real issue: the detector had an integrated 10-year battery that could not be replaced. To make the sound stop, I had to physically disable the unit with a screwdriver and then replace the alarm entirely.

That experience sent me down a rabbit hole, and I suspect many homeowners are about to have the same one.

Quick Answer: Why a Smoke Detector Chirps Even After Replacing the Battery

If your smoke detector chirps even after resetting it or replacing the battery, the unit may have a sealed 10-year battery and the detector itself has reached the end of its lifespan. In that case the entire alarm must be replaced rather than the battery.

Why This Problem Is Suddenly Becoming Common

Many homeowners are encountering this issue for the first time because sealed 10-year smoke detectors became much more common roughly 10 to 15 years ago. In fact, some places, for example, New York, no longer allow the sale of ones with replaceable batteries.

These units were designed to solve a real safety problem. Traditional detectors used replaceable batteries, and some people removed the batteries to stop nuisance alarms and forgot to reinstall them. When it comes to hardwired smoke detectors, the battery serves as a backup if the power goes out.

Manufacturers responded by introducing alarms with sealed lithium batteries designed to last the life of the detector. The trade-off is that once the battery or sensor reaches the end of its lifespan, you cannot replace the battery. The entire smoke detector must be replaced.

If your detectors were installed in the early or mid-2010s, you may now be hearing their end-of-life warning chirp for the first time.

The Real Reason a Smoke Detector Keeps Chirping

Smoke detectors can chirp for several reasons, but one of the most confusing is the end-of-life warning used by many modern alarms.

Many detectors now:

  • use a sealed 10-year lithium battery
  • are hardwired but include a sealed backup battery
  • chirp every 30–60 seconds when the unit reaches end of life
  • must be replaced entirely once this happens

That is why pressing reset often does not fix the problem. The detector is not asking for a new battery. It is telling you the entire alarm has expired.

How to Tell If You Have a Sealed 10-Year Smoke Detector

Take the detector down and inspect it carefully. Signs you are dealing with a sealed battery alarm include:

  • no removable battery compartment
  • “10-year sealed battery” printed on the back
  • an installation date close to or more than 10 years old. Smoke detectors include a place to write this on the device. You can also set a calendar reminder or keep a spreadsheet if you are the sort to do so.
  • instructions referencing permanent battery deactivation

If you forgot or it is unreadable, check the manufacture date. Most smoke detectors have a manufacture date printed on the back. If the unit is around 10 years old, it should be replaced even if it appears to work normally.

How to Test a Smoke Detector Battery

The easiest way to test a smoke alarm is to use the test button on the alarm itself. Press and hold the button according to the manufacturer’s instructions until the alarm sounds.

A successful test tells you that the alarm can respond to its built-in test function. It does not mean an old alarm should remain in service indefinitely. Smoke alarms still need to be replaced when they reach the end of their rated life.

If the smoke detector has a replaceable battery

  1. Install a fresh battery of the type specified on the alarm.
  2. Make sure the battery is seated correctly and the compartment closes completely.
  3. Press and hold the test button until the alarm sounds.
  4. If the alarm still chirps, check the manufacture date and the manufacturer’s chirp code.

If a new battery does not stop the chirping, the problem may be the alarm rather than the battery.

If the smoke detector has a sealed 10-year battery

There is no battery to remove and test separately. Use the alarm’s test button. If the unit is near the end of its rated life, continues chirping, or fails its test, replace the entire alarm according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

The National Fire Protection Association recommends testing smoke alarms every month and replacing smoke alarms when they reach 10 years of age. See the NFPA smoke-alarm guidance.

Why Resetting the Detector Often Does Nothing

When homeowners hear chirping, they usually try the obvious fixes:

  • pressing the reset button
  • cutting power at the breaker
  • looking for a battery compartment
  • disconnecting and reconnecting the alarm

These steps make sense, but they cannot revive a sealed-battery detector that has reached the end of its service life. The chirp is a built-in warning that the unit itself needs to be replaced.

How I Finally Stopped the Chirping

In my case, the alarm was hardwired, which made things more confusing. I assumed there had to be a replaceable backup battery somewhere.

There was not.

What finally worked was removing the detector and finding the battery disable mechanism. Many sealed alarms include a small tab or switch that permanently disconnects the internal battery when the unit is removed for disposal. Using a screwdriver to activate that mechanism stopped the chirping.

Of course, that also meant the alarm was finished and needed to be replaced.

How to Stop a Chirping Smoke Detector for Good

If the detector has reached end of life, the permanent solution is replacement.

The process usually looks like this:

  1. Remove the detector from its mounting plate.
  2. Check the manufacture date on the back.
  3. Confirm whether it uses a sealed battery.
  4. Disable the old alarm if it continues chirping after removal.
  5. Install a new compatible smoke detector.

If several alarms were installed at the same time, it may be worth checking the age of the others in your home as well.

Choosing a Replacement Smoke Detector

If the alarm has reached the end of its life, replacement is the repair. Before ordering a new one, take the old alarm down and check the manufacturer, model number, power source and whether it is interconnected with other alarms in the house.

Do not assume every hardwired alarm is interchangeable. Different manufacturers and product families can use different connectors and interconnect requirements.

If You Need… Start With…
Hardwired smoke + CO alarm with a 10-year backup battery Kidde 30CUA10-V
Battery-powered smoke + CO alarm with a sealed 10-year battery Kidde 30CUD10-V
Smart alarm with remote Ring notifications Kidde Ring Smart Smoke + CO Alarm

Those are only the quick choices. Hardwired compatibility, smoke-only versus combination detection, smart-home support and existing interconnection can all change which alarm makes sense.

For the full comparison, see our updated guide to the best smoke and carbon monoxide detectors in 2026.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Why Smoke Detector Chirping Often Starts at Night

Many people notice the chirping begins overnight or in the early morning. That is not a coincidence.

Lower nighttime temperatures can slightly reduce battery voltage. When a battery is already weak or nearing end of life, that drop can trigger the alarm’s warning system. The detector may have been close to failure already, and cooler overnight conditions push it over the threshold.

Unfortunately, that means these alarms tend to start chirping at the most annoying possible time.

When a Chirping Smoke Detector Means It’s Time to Replace the Alarm

If your smoke detector chirps even after resetting it or replacing the battery, the detector itself may have reached the end of its lifespan.

Many smoke alarms installed over the last 10 to 15 years contain sealed batteries designed to last the life of the detector. Once that life ends, the only real solution is replacing the entire alarm.

If your unit is about a decade old, the chirping is usually not a glitch. It is the detector telling you it is done.

Published on March 26, 2026
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How to Choose a UPS: AVR, PFC, USB Shutdown, and Battery Backup Features

Buying a UPS sounds like it should be simple. Pick a battery backup, plug in the important stuff, and stop worrying about power outages.

Unfortunately, UPS shopping gets weird quickly. Some models are meant for routers and modems. Some are better for desktops. Some are designed for active PFC power supplies. Some can tell a NAS or home server to shut down cleanly. Some have replaceable batteries. Some are basically disposable power strips with a battery inside.

The right UPS depends less on the brand name and more on what you are trying to protect.

People buying power strips don’t think that much about them. But not only are UPSes designed to protect your devices, they are designed to keep them running during a power outage. How do you pick the right combination of features and price? In a previous post, I talked about how a problem with my UPS could have caused disaster.

Quick Answer: What UPS Features Actually Matter?

The most important UPS features are enough battery capacity for your load, automatic voltage regulation, replaceable batteries, surge protection, and a USB or network data connection if you need a computer, NAS, or home server to shut down cleanly. For modern desktop PCs and some servers, you may also want a UPS designed for active PFC power supplies.

Feature Why It Matters Who Needs It Most
Enough VA/watt capacity The UPS has to handle the devices plugged into it Everyone
Automatic Voltage Regulation Helps smooth brownouts and voltage dips without switching to battery Areas with unstable power
Replaceable battery Lets you replace the battery instead of throwing out the UPS Anyone keeping a UPS for years
USB/data port Allows clean shutdown for a NAS, desktop, or home server NAS, homelab, desktop PC users
Active PFC compatibility Helps avoid problems with modern PC/server power supplies Desktops, workstations, some servers
LCD/status display Shows load, runtime, voltage, and battery condition Useful, not always essential

APC vs. CyberPower: Which UPS Brand Should You Choose?

APC and CyberPower are the two consumer UPS brands most people run into first. I have used both. Neither is perfect, and I would not make the decision on brand alone.

For basic protection, either brand can be a big improvement over plugging important equipment straight into the wall. The better question is whether the specific model has the features your setup needs: enough capacity, replaceable battery, USB shutdown support, AVR, and the right waveform/PFC support for the devices you are protecting.

In recent years, I have mostly bought CyberPower units because the feature mix has worked well for my networking equipment and homelab gear. That does not mean every CyberPower model is the right model, or that APC is wrong. It means you should compare the actual unit, not just the logo.

AVR, PFC, and Cleaner Power: What These UPS Features Mean

The UPS feature list can look like alphabet soup, but a few features are worth understanding.

  • AVR, or Automatic Voltage Regulation: AVR helps correct voltage dips or surges without immediately switching to battery. That can matter if your power flickers, sags, or runs a little unstable.
  • PFC, or Power Factor Correction: Many modern computer power supplies use active PFC. If you are protecting a desktop PC, workstation, or server, make sure the UPS is compatible with that kind of load.
  • USB or data port: This lets a NAS, desktop, or home server know when the UPS is on battery so it can shut down safely before the battery dies.
  • Replaceable battery: UPS batteries wear out. If the battery cannot be replaced, the whole unit becomes a future e-waste project.
  • LCD/status display: Not essential, but useful for seeing load, runtime, battery condition, and voltage at a glance.

Choose the UPS Based on What You Are Protecting

A router, a NAS, and a desktop gaming PC do not need the same UPS.

Use Case What Matters Most What I’d Prioritize
Router and modem Long runtime at low power draw Efficient UPS, enough outlets, simple status monitoring
NAS Clean shutdown and uptime during short outages USB data connection, replaceable battery, enough runtime
Home server Graceful shutdown and stable power USB/network shutdown, AVR, PFC compatibility
Desktop PC Avoid sudden shutdowns Enough watt capacity, PFC compatibility, AVR
Security or smart-home gear Keeping monitoring online Runtime, router/modem backup, simple alerts

If your goal is mainly to keep the internet online during an outage, see my more specific guide to the best UPS for router and modem backup.

UPS Models I’d Consider

For a fuller-featured CyberPower unit, I would look at the CyberPower CP1000PFCLED or a similar model in that family. The reason to choose this tier is not just bigger battery capacity. It is the feature set: AVR, active PFC support, replaceable battery, data port, and LCD status display.

That kind of UPS makes more sense for a desktop, homelab server, NAS setup, or anything where a clean shutdown matters.

For lighter networking gear, the CyberPower EC650LCD can make more sense. It still has useful features like an LCD screen, replaceable battery, and data port, but it is better suited to lower-power equipment such as networking devices, small accessories, or a simpler monitoring setup.

I use the less expensive model for some of my networking equipment and the fuller-featured one for my homelab server. That split is the real lesson: do not buy one UPS model for every job just because it is familiar.

My Minimum UPS Requirements

For anything I expect to keep using for years, I want at least two things:

  • A replaceable battery: UPS batteries are consumables. If the battery cannot be replaced, the UPS has a built-in expiration date.
  • A data port: If the UPS is protecting a computer, NAS, or server, it should be able to tell that device when it is running on battery so the system can shut down cleanly.

For simple router/modem backup, the data port may matter less. For a NAS or home server, it matters a lot.

AVR and PFC support are not always mandatory, but they become much more important as the equipment gets more expensive or sensitive.

UPS Backup For Home Monitoring Systems

If you are using smart-home gear to monitor a second home, vacation home, cameras, leak sensors, or smoke/CO alerts, the router and modem become part of the safety system. If the network dies, the alerts may stop reaching you.

That does not mean every sensor needs a huge UPS. It does mean your modem, router, network switch, and possibly your camera/NVR setup deserve backup power.

For the broader monitoring setup, see my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

Choosing the Right UPS

A UPS is not just a bigger power strip. It is part battery, part surge protector, part power conditioner, and sometimes part shutdown controller.

The right choice depends on what you are protecting. A router needs runtime. A NAS needs clean shutdown. A desktop needs enough capacity and PFC compatibility. A home monitoring setup needs the network to stay online long enough to send alerts.

Buy for the job, not just the brand.

Published on March 19, 2026
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cutting the cord ditching cable for youtube tv
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YouTube TV Review: Cutting the Cord After Years of Cable

The day has finally come. After years of saying I would relinquish my cable card and my homemade DVR only when forced, my provider has made that decision for me. I still have broadcast, such as it is, but this seemed like a good time, when my provider has said that it will cease to work in the not too distant future, to try something new.

There are two types of cord cutting:

  • Subscriptions to Individual Streaming Services
  • Live TV Subscriptions

Live TV being a replacement for cable TV in functionality. I have traditional family members who are only slowly learning they don’t need appointment TV all the time. But they still want it. So, how do we solve this problem?

I decided to try a trial period of YouTube TV. Most people seem to consider it the gold standard for internet based Live TV. Some of the other providers are less expensive and may better suit you, but even the most expensive YouTube TV plan may be less than you are paying your cable provider noawadays.

Make a List of What Content You Want

What actually is important to you? What channels do you want? Do you watch sports? News? Etc. For exclusive streamers, which ones have the content you want? Is there anything you want to watch live? Or is live just about serendipity…as it helps you choose random things to watch?

YouTube TV: The Features

  • Six individual family accounts
  • Unlimited DVR Space, shows expire in a few months.
  • Three simultaneous things can be watched at once
  • Their 4K Plus add on adds unlimited streams, offline downloads, and some 4K content. 4K content is only available for playback on some devices.
  • Add Ons of various streaming services

YouTube TV: A Simple Review

I wasn’t sure what to expect.

  • Faster Release – The first advantage of having a DVR is that the program is available live, and immediately thereafter. No waiting till the next day after airing to watch it. If earlier is something you want.
  • Live TV Anywhere – You can watch this on the go, or on vacation.
  • Customization – There are no channel numbers, so you can rearrange the guide and hide the channels you don’t want. You can avoid the guide entirely and approach it from a show or movie point of view.
  • Intuitive Interface – The interface is familiar to anyone who has used YouTube or similar services. Even my technologically challenged relatives can handle it.

What YouTube TV Replaces From a Traditional DVR

  • Cable DVR hardware

  • CableCARD setup

  • Recording limits

  • Watching TV outside the house

Is YouTube TV Worth It?

If you are looking for a cable replacement with DVR functionality, YouTube TV is one of the best options currently available.

What YouTube TV does particularly well:

• Unlimited DVR storage
• Multiple family accounts
• Live TV anywhere
• Easy interface even for non-technical users

The biggest drawback is price. At $82.99 per month, YouTube TV is no longer dramatically cheaper than cable for some households.

However, if your current cable package includes:

  • equipment rental fees

  • DVR fees

  • regional sports fees

  • broadcast surcharges

YouTube TV may still end up being less expensive overall.

For many households, the real benefit is simplicity — no hardware, no installations, and access to your recordings from anywhere.

YouTube TV vs Cable TV

For many households the real comparison is not between streaming services, but between YouTube TV and traditional cable TV.

Feature YouTube TV Traditional Cable
DVR Unlimited cloud DVR Limited storage DVR, often at additional service cost
Equipment No dedicated hardware required Cable box + DVR rental
Watching Away From Home Works anywhere with internet Usually limited to home network, some limited mobile options
Setup Sign up online Technician or equipment installation
Price ~$82.99/month Often $90–$150 with fees

The biggest difference is flexibility.

With cable, recordings are tied to your DVR hardware. With YouTube TV, recordings are stored in the cloud and accessible from any device.

For households that travel frequently or want to watch on phones, tablets, and laptops, this can be a major advantage.

Conclusion: YouTube TV Is Compelling, Even with Budget Alternatives

The one possible stumbling block with YouTube TV is the base price of $82.99. It is at the higher end of the cable replacement services, but that is still again, less than many cable plans. But YouTube TV in February announced that they would introduce new less expensive plans that focus on different preferences, should you need fewer channels. After my promotional discount is over, I may look to pare down the selection. But for now, it may be time to call my cable provider and see how much cancelling TV through them will save me.

Because while bundle discounts may mean my internet through them will go up, it should hopefully be a net win.

Published on March 15, 2026
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UPS batteries fail silently
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UPS Batteries May Only Last 2–3 Years (And They Usually Fail Without Warning)

Last week I walked into my office and discovered that several of my computer systems were down.

Everything about it looked like a power outage.

Except there hadn’t been one.

All of the equipment was connected to a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) — essentially a battery backup power strip designed to keep systems running during outages.

But despite the name uninterruptible, everything had shut off.

UPS Batteries Don’t Last Forever

Most consumer UPS units use sealed lead-acid batteries. The typical lifespan is:

  • 2–3 years in normal conditions
  • shorter in warm environments
  • shorter if the UPS frequently switches to battery

Once the battery degrades enough, the UPS can no longer provide power and the unit may simply shut down when power fluctuates.

Many consumer UPS devices, such as mine,  provide little or no reliable warning before this happens. Silent failures defeat the purpose of a protective device.

My New Maintenance Plan

After this latest failure, I needed to adopt a much more systematic approach.

  1. Only buy UPSes with swappable batteries – the budget models often lack
  2. Label Every Battery – The date of installation of each battery will be labeled on the unit and on the battery.
  3. Perform Regular Hard Tests –

At regular intervals:

    • Power down connected equipment
    • Unplug the UPS from the wall
    • Confirm that the battery engages.
    • Optionally plug in a small device to verify the UPS actually provides power under load.

 

A UPS is not a “set it and forget it” device. If you rely on one to protect important systems — servers, networking gear, or workstations — you need to treat the battery as consumable component. Plan to replace it every few years and test it occasionally. Most UPS manufacturers recommend replacing sealed lead-acid batteries every 3 years, even if the device still appears to function normally.

Otherwise, the day you actually need the UPS may be the day you discover it stopped working long ago.

Published on March 12, 2026
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Compact travel keyboard with laptop and backpack, illustrating the best travel keyboards in 2026
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Best Travel Keyboards in 2026: Mechanical, Foldable, and Portable Options

updated July 21, 2026

The best travel keyboard in 2026 depends on whether you need something foldable, mechanical, ultra-light, or wireless. Here are the best portable keyboards for working on the go.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Product links may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

Quick answer: For most people, the best travel keyboard is the thinnest keyboard they can comfortably type on for more than a few minutes. I would start with the Keychron B1 Pro if you want something cheap, thin, and quiet. If you want a low-profile mechanical keyboard, look at the Keychron K3 QMK. If you want the more premium low-profile feel, compare the NuPhy Air75 V2.

Quick Picks: Best Travel Keyboards in 2026

Use case Best pick Why I’d choose it Check price
Best cheap thin travel keyboard Keychron B1 Pro Thin, quiet, inexpensive, and closer to a laptop-style typing feel than a compact mechanical board. Check price
Best low-profile mechanical travel keyboard Keychron K3 QMK A practical travel-friendly mechanical keyboard if you want real switches without carrying a chunky board. Check price
Best premium low-profile option NuPhy Air75 V2 A nicer-feeling low-profile mechanical keyboard for people who want a better typing experience and can spare the space. Check price
Best smaller NuPhy option NuPhy Air60 V2 Smaller than the Air75, with the same general low-profile travel-keyboard appeal. Check price
Best split travel keyboard Epomaker Split65 A budget way to try a split layout that can pack more flexibly than a one-piece keyboard. Check price
Best tiny mechanical keyboard Keychron Q9 Very small and very portable, but only a good fit if you already like compact layouts or are willing to learn one. Check price

There are a few approaches to travel keyboards. In previous years, I looked at folding keyboards as one possible solution, but a lot of them do not feel good enough for real typing. Choosing a travel keyboard usually comes down to the compromise you can live with: thinner, smaller, quieter, more mechanical, or more ergonomic.

Most of the mechanical options below use open source firmware or offer strong layout customization, and several have hotswap switch options. But if you care more about thinness than switch feel, a scissor-switch board may be the better travel keyboard than a tiny mechanical board.

Best Cheap Thin Travel Keyboard: Keychron B1 Pro

The Keychron B1 Pro is the travel keyboard I would look at first if thinness, price, and quiet typing matter more than a mechanical feel. It is closer to the kind of keyboard you might expect from a laptop or slim desktop setup, which can be a strength when you are trying to keep a travel bag light.

Buy this if: you want a thin, inexpensive Bluetooth keyboard that is easy to pack and does not need to feel like a full mechanical board.

Skip it if: you specifically want mechanical switches, hotswap options, or a heavier enthusiast typing feel.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Low-Profile Mechanical Travel Keyboard: Keychron K3 QMK

The Keychron K3 QMK is the more natural choice if you want a real mechanical keyboard but do not want to travel with a tall, heavy board. The low-profile layout makes more sense in a travel bag than a standard-height mechanical keyboard, while QMK support gives you more room to customize the layout.

Buy this if: you want a travel-friendly mechanical keyboard with a more serious typing feel than a scissor-switch board.

Skip it if: you mostly care about thinness, quiet typing, or the lowest possible travel weight.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Premium Low-Profile Travel Keyboard: NuPhy Air75 V2

The NuPhy Air75 V2 is the premium low-profile option I would compare against the Keychron boards. It is a better fit if you care about typing feel and are willing to give up a little more bag space for a nicer keyboard.

Buy this if: you want a nicer low-profile mechanical keyboard and do not need the smallest possible travel setup.

Skip it if: you want the cheapest thin keyboard or you need something smaller than a 75% layout.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Smaller NuPhy Option: NuPhy Air60 V2

The NuPhy Air60 V2 is the more compact NuPhy option. It keeps the low-profile mechanical feel but takes up less space than the Air75, which can matter if you are trying to build a smaller travel kit.

Buy this if: you like the NuPhy low-profile idea but want a smaller board than the Air75.

Skip it if: you rely heavily on dedicated keys and would be annoyed by the compromises of a smaller layout.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Split Travel Keyboard: Epomaker Split65

The Epomaker Split65 is the interesting travel option if you want to try a split layout without building a custom board. A split keyboard can pack differently than a one-piece keyboard, and it can be easier to position in a cramped hotel-room or travel-desk setup.

Buy this if: you want a split layout that is still realistic to travel with.

Skip it if: you want the simplest possible keyboard or you do not want to adjust to a split layout while traveling.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Tiny Mechanical Keyboard: Keychron Q9

The Keychron Q9 is the tiny mechanical option for people who are already comfortable with compact layouts. It is small enough to be genuinely portable, but the layout is part of the deal. This is not the board I would recommend to someone who wants a normal typing experience with no adjustment period.

Buy this if: you already like compact mechanical keyboards and want something very small for travel.

Skip it if: you need a conventional layout or do not want to relearn key positions on the road.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Which Travel Keyboard Should You Choose?

If I were buying a travel keyboard today, I would start by deciding whether I care more about thinness or typing feel.

The simplest answer is probably the Keychron B1 Pro. It is thin, quiet, and easy to pack. The more enthusiast answer is the Keychron K3 QMK or NuPhy Air75 V2, depending on how much space you are willing to give a keyboard in your bag.

Related Travel Tech

A keyboard is only one part of a portable work setup. If you also work from hotels, see my guide to the best travel router for hotel Wi-Fi.

How to Think About Travel Keyboard Size

The right travel keyboard is usually the smallest or thinnest keyboard you can pack and still enjoy using. A keyboard that is technically portable but unpleasant to type on will stay in your bag.

A thin scissor-switch keyboard like the Keychron B1 Pro makes sense if you want something light, quiet, and easy to carry. A low-profile mechanical keyboard like the Keychron K3 QMK, NuPhy Air60 V2, or NuPhy Air75 V2 makes sense if typing feel matters more than saving every ounce.

Split keyboards are more specialized. They can pack well because they separate into two pieces, but they also require more adjustment. Very small mechanical keyboards, including 40% layouts, are even more personal. They can be wonderfully portable, but they are best for people who already like compact layouts or are willing to learn one.

I still like tiny keyboards, and I sell supplies for them at MechDreams, but I would not tell most travelers to start there. For most people, the safer first choice is a thin keyboard or a low-profile mechanical board.

Published on February 20, 2026
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How to Supercharge Your Alerts with Ntfy: Priorities, Actions, and Smart Integrations

Previously, I wrote about using Ntfy as a notification system for Uptime Kuma. But the system has a lot of other advantages, so I wanted to go into a bit more detail on how it can be used.

Ntfy works on channels. Channels manifest as paths under the server URL. For example, ntfy.sh/gadgetwisdom would be a gadgetwisdom channel. By default, the ones on the public server are all public, meaning that you can only hide or restrict them by having a hard to guess channel name, if you host the server, you can add access control globally, or on a per channel basis to require authentication for subscribing, publishing, or both.

  • Priorities – Ntfy supports custom priorities from 1 to 5, with 3 being the default.
  • Templates – If a service sends data in JSON format, you can write a template for Ntfy to interpret it, rather than having to set up something in between to do that.
  • Action Buttons –  You can add buttons to view a webpage, send a http request to a URL, or on Android only, trigger an Android intent.
  • Attachments – You can send attachments using a file or URL link in a message. Files expire in a few hours, but linked files would be available longer.
  • Icons – To help identify different messages, notifications can have an icon.
  • Phone Calls – Ntfy supports via a Twilio account notifying people via phone using text to speech.

This leaves a lot of creative opportunities for integrations.

  • Maybe I want to have urgent messages phoned to certain people. Setting priority levels and noises can also help with this.
  • Action buttons could allow me to instantly react to alerts with simple actions.
  • Attachments already let me view snapshots from my Frigate feed, but what else could I send.

As I look to better integrate this, this service reveals a lot of simple options I can leverage.

Published on December 1, 2025
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Portable travel router next to a laptop and phone in a hotel room, illustrating the best travel router for hotel Wi-Fi in 2026
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Best Travel Router for Hotel Wi-Fi in 2026

There are many reasons to use a travel router when on the go. For example, protecting yourself from malicious actors on hotel wifi. As I write this, I am in an extended stay at a foreign hotel. The hotel TV has built in YouTube and streaming, and on three occasions so far, the TV has been taken over by people in other rooms apparently by accident.

At minimum, a travel router isolates your devices from the other people on the hotel wifi. But it can do so much more. It can allow you to add a streaming device to the TV, as many cannot navigate the captive portal. Many can support a connected USB drive to act as a simple media server to stream to the device you connect to your TV.

Finally, your device can act as a VPN gateway for your devices, something I am doing with my travel router as we speak. Every web request is running through my VPN server in my apartment. My current preference has been the GL.iNet line of travel routers. They run a variant of an open firmware and have general been reliable. I have had several.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Product links may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

Quick answer: For most travelers, I would start with the GL.iNet Beryl AX. It is small, modern, fast enough for normal hotel Wi-Fi, and usually the easiest recommendation if you are buying today. If you already own the GL.iNet Slate Plus, I would keep using it unless you need more speed. If you want the premium model and do not mind paying more, the GL.iNet Slate 7 is the one to compare.

Quick Picks: Best Travel Routers for Hotel Wi-Fi

Use case Best pick Why I’d choose it Check price
Best for most travelers GL.iNet Beryl AX Modern Wi-Fi 6, compact size, strong travel-router feature set, and better value than chasing the newest model for hotel Wi-Fi. Check price
Best proven older model GL.iNet Slate Plus The model I have used while traveling. Still a practical pick if the price is right and you do not need Wi-Fi 6. Check price
Best faster Slate option GL.iNet Slate AX A stronger Slate-series router with Wi-Fi 6 and more performance headroom. Check price
Best premium option GL.iNet Slate 7 The premium pick if you specifically want Wi-Fi 7, dual 2.5G ports, USB-C power, and the touchscreen. Check price

 

Best Travel Router for Most People: GL.iNet Beryl AX

The GL.iNet Beryl AX is the travel router I would look at first if I were buying today. It is small, modern, and more than enough for the normal travel-router jobs: isolating your devices from the rest of the hotel network, sharing a VPN connection, connecting a streaming stick, and avoiding the hassle of signing every device into a captive portal.

Buy this if: you want one compact travel router that should handle most hotel Wi-Fi, rental-house, and temporary work setups without spending for the newest premium model.

Skip it if: you specifically want the Slate line’s Ethernet layout or the premium features on the Slate 7.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Proven Older Model: GL.iNet Slate Plus

The GL.iNet Slate Plus is the travel router I have actually been using on the road. That counts for something. Travel routers are not only about wireless specs. They need to handle weird hotel Wi-Fi, captive portals, VPN connections, streaming devices, and temporary work setups without turning every hotel stay into a networking project.

Buy this if: you want a proven GL.iNet travel router and find it at a good price.

Skip it if: the Beryl AX is close in price. At that point, I would usually buy the newer model.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Faster Slate Option: GL.iNet Slate AX

The GL.iNet Slate AX is the better fit if you like the Slate line but want more performance. It gives you more headroom than the Slate Plus, which may be useful if you travel with several devices, share a VPN connection, or use the router in temporary work setups where reliability matters.

Buy this if: you want a stronger Slate-series router and do not mind paying more than the basic travel-router options.

Skip it if: your main use is occasional hotel Wi-Fi and the Beryl AX is cheaper.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Premium Travel Router: GL.iNet Slate 7

The GL.iNet Slate 7 is the premium option. It adds newer hardware, faster networking features, USB-C power, and a touchscreen. Those are useful upgrades, but they are not automatically necessary in a hotel room. In many hotels, the internet connection itself will be the bottleneck before the router is.

Buy this if: you specifically want the newer hardware, 2.5G ports, and the touchscreen.

Skip it if: you mainly want a simple travel router for hotel Wi-Fi. The Beryl AX or Slate Plus will usually be the better value.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Which GL.iNet Travel Router Should You Choose?

If I were buying today, I would start with the Beryl AX. It is the easiest recommendation for most people because it gives you a modern travel router without paying for premium features that many hotel Wi-Fi setups cannot really use.

  • Most travelers: Beryl AX
  • Already own a Slate Plus: keep using it unless it is limiting you
  • Want a faster Slate: Slate AX
  • Want the premium model: Slate 7

Do You Need Wi-Fi 7 or 2.5G Ethernet in a Travel Router?

Usually, no. Wi-Fi 7 and 2.5G Ethernet are useful features, but they are rarely the thing holding you back in a hotel. The hotel’s internet connection, captive portal, room location, and shared network load usually matter more than the router’s maximum theoretical speed.

That is why I would not automatically buy the most expensive travel router. For most people, reliability, VPN support, captive-portal handling, size, and power are more important than chasing the newest Wi-Fi number.

Why I Started Traveling With a Router

I started carrying a travel router because hotel Wi-Fi is often awkward in exactly the ways that matter: captive portals, streaming devices that cannot log in easily, devices exposed on the same network as other guests, and VPN setups that become annoying when every device has to be configured separately.

On my current trip, I have been using the GL.iNet Slate Plus. It still works, which is why I do not think every traveler needs to chase the newest model. But if I were buying today, I would start with the Beryl AX unless I specifically wanted the Slate 7’s newer hardware and touchscreen.

My Pick For Best Travel Router

If I were buying one travel router today, I would start with the GL.iNet Beryl AX. It is the best balance of size, features, maturity, and price for most travelers. I would only move up to the Slate 7 if I specifically wanted the screen, Wi-Fi 7, or 2.5G Ethernet ports.

Related Travel Tech

A travel router pairs well with a compact keyboard, a USB-C charger, and a small power strip. See my guide to the best travel keyboards if you are building a portable work setup.

Published on November 27, 2025
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Finding the Right File Synchronization Tool in Syncthing

Years ago, my first practical tool for file synchronization was a USB drive with a whopping 32 megabytes of storage. This was an issue for my mother, who, oddly for the time, just expected her files to follow her to every computer she went to. So I built a server to do just that. It was massive overkill for what it was actually used for.

Then came Dropbox. You installed an app and it synced everything in a designated folder to their servers. But Dropbox, like many services, became slower, bloated, etc.  So, I moved on to self hosting. First with Owncloud, and then with its fork, Nextcloud.  These platforms no longer bill themselves as file synchronization platforms, they bill themselves as ‘collaboration’ tools.

This is the problem that has taken me to look for a new solution that just does files. No more, no less. And while my instance of Nextcloud is still running, I am giving Syncthing a try. Syncthing requires no central server. It ticks all the security boxes: open protocol and encryption.

I installed a copy on my server, which allows me to synchronize the files there and back them up, in addition to syncing the various computers that need the files. It also, being peer to peer, allows me to have different folders synced to different systems, which allows for a bit more independent flexibility than the centralized systems, but also a bit more setup time.

Syncthing works perfectly on a local network, but has some challenges on the public internet. There are two services Syncthing provides for thi: A discovery server and a relay server.

Syncthing runs several public discovery servers, which assist in helping instances find themselves, but you can run your own. Discovery servers are safe enough to use publicly, although using them can identify that a device exists. The other server is a relay server. It allows relaying between devices that may be on different networks. The information is encrypted, so it is unlikely a malicious one could do much more than disrupt communication.

But regardless, I set up my own private discovery and relay server, and neither can be used without a token that I have to manually add to each device when setting them up. So, it is as secure as I can make it.

It remains to be seen if it will fully suit my needs, but so far, it is lightweight, flexible, and dumps all of the unnecessary cruft I do not want.

Published on November 24, 2025
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The Future of Linear Television: ATSC3.0

In the future streaming has created, where content is accessible on demand whenever we want, it is sometimes easy to forget linear television still exists. No longer, aside from live sports, must we watch shows at a prescribed time. But that itself is a loss. There is no morning after water cooler conversation at a specific time. Some streamers still do release one episode per week, but some adopt the model of dumping entire blocks at a time on streaming. You can watch almost any show..except that one you can barely remember from your childhood that mysteriously can’t be found anywhere.

There are solutions to this though. Someone created Ersatz TV…which allows you to turn your media library into a complete TV channel. So you can create your own linear content.

There is also subscribing to cable. You can still do that. But cable isn’t necessarily the value proposition it once was. People are abandoning it in droves.

And finally, there is the final option, broadcast TV. The airwaves are meant to be public and available to all without subscription. Broadcast is also at risk though. The latest standard for brodc ast in the US is ATSC 3.0. Some may remember the transition to digital broadcast, or ATSC 1.0 twenty years ago. The government gave out coupons for external tuners, and new televisions stasrted to get tuners over time. That is not happening this time.

NextGen, aka ATSC3.0

ATSC 3 actually allows for encryption, which was originally promoted as a way to add additional services, but now many broadcasters are encrypting their regular feeds, while running older ATSC1 transmissions alongside. Meanwhile, with no mandate to provide tuners, only higher end televisions are being built with ATSC 3 support, yet the government seems to be accepting lobbyists’ push to move forward on discontinuing the older standard beginning in 2028. Despite the current administration, which tends to be pro business, often over consumer, the FCC is considering public comment in its notice of proposed rulemaking. Specifically whether they should reconsider the lack of a mandate for ATSC3 tuners in new TVs as they did in 2002 and whether they should mandate unencrypted broadcast channels as originally intended before encryption technology was a consideration.

So, our only hope for free to watch television is currently in the hands of the FCC, who will hopefully come up with something fair, or to make our own station…which only our families can watch. I will give them credit, however, they so far are acknowledging there may be a problem, but that does not mean they will actually do anything about it. They don’t have the track record of making consumer friendly decisions, or when they do, ensuring they actually result in what is intended.

That program to give people free tuners as part of the conversion was difficult to navigate, and confusing for people. It took years to resolve itself. That was why the FCC tried to let the market handle the migration this time, but corporations aren’t offering tuners to the people who use them the most, they aren’t lowering hurdles to the manufacturer.

They should have learned after they let encryption happen to cable. You used to be able to tune cable channels with your TV, but then the cable companies started encrypting, and wanted you to rent a box from them. So, the FCC required they offer the encyption as a plug in device called a cablecard, so you would be able to return to using the tuner in your TV. But like the ATSC 3.0 tuners, the TVs that offered cablecard support were higher end and you couldn’t buy an external tuner with some rare exceptions. And trying to find someone at the cable company to give you the mandated cablecard was equally hard. The FCC finally eliminated the cablecard mandate in 2020. I still have one, and I am sure my provider will force me to give it up any day now. In deciding to give up the cablecard, the FCC cited apps that could be run on multiple devices as giving people the freedom to watch on the device of their choice, but that is still a limited experience.

Hopefully broadcast television doesn’t go the same way.

Published on November 14, 2025
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A Tale of Two 3d Printer Companies: Anycubic Support Disappoints

I don’t have high expectations when it comes to technical support. I get frustrated at times with customer service in general. Sometimes, I seem to know more about the product than the representatives of the company that makes it. I can accept that, but usually I feel like they are trying to help me, not wasting my time.

I have several 3D Printers now. All of them have had problems at some point. Printers heat plastic to high temperatures, have a series of motors to move the pieces around…these are parts that wear over time. I’m not surprised that things fail over time.

I own two Anycubic Kobra 2 Printers. The Kobra 2 Plus and recently I bought the Kobra 2 Max. Both were purchased during good sales, so below MSRP. These are the exact same printer, except can print up to 320mm, the other 420mm. In the modern age, 3D Printers are starting to have cameras built in to monitor the print remotely. The Kobra series, even the new Kobra 3 line, offers a port to add a camera, and they sell it an inexpensive one as an accessory, but it is not included standard.

The Kobra 2 Plus has been a workhorse. It hasn’t broken, it rarely clogs and I only had to replace a degraded piece once. The Max, after calibration, has been about the same. There are opportunities to improve the print quality slightly with setting changes, but it is reliable. Reviews however, have gone both ways, with people either finding the Kobra 2 line wonderful or horrible.

After using the Plus for a long period of time, and getting the Max, I opted to finally get the camera. The device shows it detects a camera is connected, but it can’t be viewed in their Android app. It asked me to check if a camera was connected. When I had temporarily plugged in a Logitech camera to the Plus last year, it did work. I tried other cameras, and same. So, I assumed this was a software issue, and contacted Anycubic Support.

At the point I write this, I have been talking to them for the nearly the whole month. The rep has ignored every question I asked, continually asked questions I already answered, and finally, decided that I must need a new motherboard. When I asked if he meant two new motherboards, and asked how that would help the situation, he asked if I’d modified the printers in any way, which I hadn’t. Not that I didn’t consider it, considering that the software support for the Kobra 2 line is so limited that I transfer files to the printers on a USB drive, despite them having network connections.

Let’s contrast that with Elegoo. I also own a Centauri Carbon. It is a newer printer that was the rage to preorder this spring and summer. It produces high quality prints, and worked solidly to the point I picked it to print more and more. And it supports network printing from Linux, my chosen operating system, so no USB drive. They have no support for the Carbon in their app, but because the Carbon has open network control, someone wrote a third party Android app and I can monitor the built in camera.

So, 100% closed system on one printer, partially closed system on the other one. I am not a purist, but when someone figured out how to get the Kobra 2 line to actually support remote connections, Anycubic’s response was to close the hole, which is indicative of their approach.

The Carbon broke. It suddenly wasn’t printing correctly. It clogged and then wouldn’t work reliably even after I cleaned it up. When I dismantled it, I found the entire hotend assembly, which is the part of the printer that heats and distributes the melted plastic, was bent. I replaced it and contacted Elegoo. They asked for a picture, I sent it to them. They explained to me what they thought happened. They offered me a replacement hotend because the part failed so atypically. They have none in their US warehouse, which is a massive complaint people have about it, they not only offered to send it to me from their Chinese warehouse, they told me that if I got charged duties on the import, they’d reimburse me. They had a tracking number to me quickly.

The Carbon is not without controversy itself. They were so popular at the price point they were shipping out versions, discovering engineering issues, then correcting them for the next batch, leaving some of the earlier people who ordered it with problems. They promised automatic material switcher(AMS) support, but have experienced issues in delivering the product, and they are already launching a Carbon 2. Elegoo has a reputation for abandoning products and moving on to the next thing. But that’s the internet complaining, I have had no issues.

So far, Elegoo has done everything users asked, and risks alienating their customers due lack of long term commitment, but they gave me good support when I needed them. Anycubic produced good hardware, but their support…we are 21 days in and they just asked me for the serial number of the printer. They previously asked for video of the Android app not working…not sure how “Make Sure Your Camera is Connected” as an error message is video worthy.

I have 2 Anycubic Printers, not sure I’m inspired enough to buy from them again. I’ve left relationships with companies for less. There is always Bambu Labs, which people love, and I do like my A1 Mini.

 

Published on October 30, 2025
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