Skip to main content

Gadget Wisdom

0 Responses

IPv6 Explained: Why Adoption Is Still Slow Decades Later

Most of us don’t just use the internet once a day — we’re constantly surrounded by connected devices. Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, even appliances. And that number keeps growing.

At the center of all of it is the basic Internet Protocol (IP), which is what allows devices to talk to each other.

The current version most of the internet still relies on is IPv4. The problem is that IPv4 only supports about

Most of us don’t just use the internet once a day — we’re constantly surrounded by connected devices. Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, even appliances. And that number keeps growing.

At the center of all of it is the basic Internet Protocol (IP), which is what allows devices to talk to each other.

The current version most of the internet still relies on is IPv4. The problem is that IPv4 only supports about 4,294,967,296 billion unique addresses — and in practice, even fewer than that.

  • Large blocks are reserved for special purposes
  • Early allocations gave organizations far more addresses than they needed
  • Devices are now always connected instead of sharing connections
  • Broadband adoption continues to expand globally

IPv6 has been around since the late 1990s and became a formal internet standard long before most people ever heard of it.  Despite this, adoption has not moved forward very quickly. This expands addressing to 340 undecillion total addresses. What’s an undecillion? 10 to the 36th power- a trillion trillion trillion.

IPV6 and IPV4 can coexist, but one is not backward compatible to the other. You can run a ‘dual stack’ connection, that connects over both versions. Usually this will be IPV6 with an IPV4 fallback.  A protocol called ‘Happy Eyeballs’ is used to pick the best option of the two.

Why Has IPv6 Adoption Been So Slow?

IPv6 was introduced in the late 1990s. We are now decades into its existence, and yet most home networks — and a surprising number of enterprise ones — still lean heavily on IPv4.

Yes, we “ran out” of IPv4 addresses on paper. But instead of forcing a painful transition, the industry engineered its way around the problem. Most users wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between using IPV4 or IPV6.

Network Address Translation

Network Address Translation (NAT) became the default. Instead of every device needing a public IP address, entire homes — and even large networks — now sit behind a single one. Your router quietly handles the translation, and for most users, it just works. It is only users who want to host their own services who care as much about having publicly routable IP addresses.

That one workaround removed the urgency that IPv6 depended on. If nothing is visibly broken, nobody is motivated to replace it. Businesses had little motivation to do so, leaving it as important to a much smaller group of people.

Internet Service Providers

Most Internet Service Providers support IPV6, but good luck getting support. Performance is inconsistent. So, your mileage as a customer may vary. Over the last few years, I have turned on and turned off IPV6 at various times, due to reliability issues, but despite limited adoption, it continues to get more reliable and hopefully will continue to do so in the future.

The one exception here is mobile. Mobile providers, especially in Asia, are going native IPV6 mostly due to the need for increasing address space. This is slowly making its way to carriers in the rest of the world. So, considering that, it may be what has caused home ISPs to improve, and may drive additional business adoption as well.

Major platforms like Google and Facebook already see a significant percentage of traffic over IPv6.

Advantages

IPv6 is objectively better in a lot of ways:

  • Vast address space
  • End-to-end connectivity
  • Simpler routing (in theory)

But here’s the problem: there’s no killer feature that users notice.

Switching to IPv6 doesn’t:

  • make your internet faster
  • improve your Wi-Fi
  • unlock some must-have app or other features

IPV6 can be faster than IPV4, but that isn’t strictly because of the protocol. It depends. You may find that one protocol or the other is faster depending on the route your traffic takes.

Should You Enable IPv6?

By default, whether you have a commercial router or a homebuilt one like I do, it is usually very easy to turn on IPV6. If it doesn’t immediately work, you may have to google and adjust a few settings for your ISP. At this point, you can judge for yourself whether or not it is beneficial. Keep it on unless you have issues and see what happens.

If you want a full experiment, turn off IPV4 just to see what happens. You may, like on mobile, not even notice.

Why has IPv6 adoption been so slow?
IPv6 adoption has been slow because IPv4 never actually stopped working. Technologies like NAT allowed networks to stretch limited IPv4 addresses, removing urgency. Since IPv6 offers few noticeable benefits to everyday users, most networks continue to run both protocols without fully transitioning.

Published on April 20, 2026
Full Post
0 Responses

Can’t Buy a New Router But You Can Build One

Recently, the FCC in the United States banned foreign made routers made by some of the most popular manufacturers…which means…well, pretty much all not already approved from popular brands. It means you can continue to buy current routers, but any new technology…not so much. The ruling is something of a joke. For one, manufacturers can just continue to sell old models of routers without new innovation.

The argument is that foreign entities can compromise these devices, however, they could compromise the existing ones, and even the new ones…they could deploy updates at any time and open a hole that wasn’t there previously. So, what is the solution? For me, that was build my own. I had gone back and forth on this over the years.

For one, if you wanted to stay with the most common routers, there exist many third party firmwares for consumer routers. These are open source options that give you more control, like dd-wrt, and openwrt. Routers are effectively little computers, and very limited ones at that. These routers have:

  • low power and relatively slow CPUs
  • extremely limited RAM
  • limited space to store additional programs

There is a lot of room therefore to move up. Instead of using a purpose-built router appliance, you can simply replace it with a low-power PC running router software Modern low power CPUs like the N100/N150 series are perfect for this function. You can use a mini PC, or there are manufacturers offering ones with specifications specifically in mind to act as firewall and router appliances. A more powerful processor gives your new router plenty of room for advanced networking functions.

To run my router, I chose Opnsense. Opnsense is an open source firewall and router, with a load of features and installable extensions.

  •  Enterprise-grade firewall controls
  • VPN support
  • traffic shaping
  • DNS filtering
  • detailed monitoring and logging

The default gives you a robust and secure router, and beyond that, any enhancement you can imagine can be added. And because it is modular, you can install additional functionality through plugins. This makes it far more flexible than most commercial routers.

What could be considered an advantage of building your own router is separating routing from Wi-Fi. It means you can upgrade and maintain these systems separately. These systems don’t actually have to live together. By addressing each piece individually, you can have better quality equipment, more reliability, and easier upgrades. If Wi-Fi standards change (and they always do), I can simply replace the access point without touching the router.

My Opnsense instance handles a lot more than a simple embedded appliance can. It:

  • Secure Site to Site VPN to multiple locations
  • Private VPN for my laptop and phone when on the go
  • Encryption for self-hosted services
  • Advanced firewall rules
  • DNS Management
  • Network isolation for IoT devices

For technically inclined users, it is relatively easy to get started and expand and learn over time. I cannot say how many times I have dug deep into the options when I added those VPNs, when I moved securing LetEncrypt certifications for my homelab onto the router, and more.

It isn’t just a long term solution, it is an adventure.

 

 

 

 

Published on April 6, 2026
Full Post
UPS battery backup powering a modem and Wi-Fi router during a power outage
0 Responses

Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems (Keep Your Internet Running During Power Outages)

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Product links may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

If your internet connection disappears the moment the power flickers, the problem usually isn’t your internet provider.

It’s your power.

Most home networks rely on several small devices that all require electricity: a modem, a router, sometimes Wi-Fi access points, switches, or security cameras. When power fails, every one of those devices shuts off instantly.

A UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) solves this problem by providing instant battery backup. When electricity fails, the UPS switches to battery power automatically and keeps your networking equipment running.

Because routers and modems draw very little power, even a modest UPS can often keep your internet working for an hour or more.

Quick pick: For a basic modem-and-router setup, start with a compact 650VA UPS such as the CyberPower EC650LCD. If you also power network switches, access points and other equipment, the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is a better-equipped step up with automatic voltage regulation and sine-wave output.

For a more substantial network closet with additional equipment, consider the APC BR1500MS2 or our guide to UPS systems for home network closets. Compare runtime at your actual power draw rather than assuming that a larger VA rating always delivers several hours of backup.

Do not plug in a laser printer, space heater, gaming PC, or anything high-draw unless the UPS is sized for it. For this guide, the goal is simple: keep the internet online when the power flickers or goes out.

Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems

If your goal is keeping your internet connection alive during a power outage, these are the UPS models I would consider first.

 

UPS Model Best For Capacity Why Pick It Check Price
CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD Best overall UPS 1000VA / 600W The best balance for most home networks: modem, router, switch, access point, and some room to grow. Check price on Amazon
APC BR1500MS2 Larger home networks 1500VA / 900W Better for network closets, multiple access points, switches, cameras, or a small rack. Check price on Amazon
CyberPower EC650LCD Best budget UPS 650VA / 390W A good low-cost pick if you mainly want to keep a modem and router online. Check price on Amazon
APC BE650G1 Small setups 650VA / 390W Compact, simple, and easy to tuck near a modem/router shelf. Check price on Amazon

Check the outlets before connecting your network. Some outlets on a UPS provide surge protection without battery backup. On the CyberPower EC650LCD, four of the eight outlets provide battery backup; the other four are surge-only, including three ECO-controlled outlets. Connect your modem, router and essential switches only to outlets labeled for battery backup. The ECO-controlled outlets are intended for peripherals that can be switched off, not networking equipment that must remain powered.

Can a UPS Keep Wi-Fi Working During a Power Outage?

Yes. A properly sized UPS can keep your modem, router, Wi-Fi access point, and small network switch running during short power outages. The runtime depends on the size of the battery backup and how much equipment is plugged into it.

For many home setups, the goal is not to run the entire house. It is to keep the internet connection alive long enough for brief outages, remote work, smart-home devices, security cameras, and alerts to keep functioning.

If your internet provider’s equipment outside the home still has power, a UPS can often keep your home network online. If the neighborhood equipment is also down, the UPS may keep your router running but not preserve the internet connection.

My buying rule: if you only have a modem and router, do not overthink it. A compact 600VA–650VA UPS is often enough. If you have a switch, access point, security camera base station, or smart-home hub, I would usually move up to a 1000VA unit.

That is why the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is the safest pick for most people. It is not the cheapest option, but it avoids the common mistake of buying the smallest UPS and then immediately running out of outlets or runtime.

Why Routers and Modems Benefit From a UPS

Networking equipment consumes surprisingly little electricity.

Typical power usage looks like this:

  • Modem: 10–20 watts
  • Router: 10–25 watts
  • Wi-Fi access point: 10–20 watts
  • Small network switch: 5–20 watts

Because the power draw is low, UPS batteries can keep networking equipment running far longer than desktop computers or gaming systems.

A UPS also protects networking hardware from:

  • power outages
  • voltage drops
  • power surges
  • short power interruptions

If you work from home, rely on internet-connected security cameras, or have smart home devices that stop working when the network goes down, a UPS can make a bigger difference than you might expect.

If those devices are part of a second-home or vacation-home monitoring setup, the router and modem are not just convenience devices. They are a vital part of your alert system. I cover the broader setup in my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

Best UPS for an Expanded Home Network: CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD

The CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is my step-up choice when a home network includes more than a modem and router.

It is more UPS than a bare modem-and-router setup strictly needs, but that is the point. Most home networks grow. A modem and router become a modem, router, switch, access point, smart-home hub, and maybe a camera bridge. A little extra capacity keeps the UPS useful after the next upgrade.

  • 1000VA / 600W capacity
  • Pure sine wave output
  • Automatic Voltage Regulation
  • LCD status display
  • Enough headroom for many modem/router/switch/access-point setups

Buy this if: you want one UPS that should handle a normal home network without being huge.

Skip it if: you only need the cheapest possible backup for one modem and one router.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best UPS for Larger Home Networks: APC BR1500MS2

The APC BR1500MS2 is the step-up pick for people whose “router setup” has turned into a small network closet.

If you have multiple access points, a switch, security-camera gear, a small NAS, or a rack shelf full of boxes, the extra capacity and outlets start to matter. This is probably overkill for a basic modem and router, but it makes sense once the network becomes something the household depends on.

  • 1500VA / 900W capacity
  • 10 outlets
  • Strong voltage regulation
  • USB charging ports
  • More room for network closets and larger setups

Buy this if: you have more than just a modem and router, or you want longer runtime.

Skip it if: your internet setup lives on a small shelf and only has two devices.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Budget UPS for Routers and Modems: CyberPower EC650LCD

The CyberPower EC650LCD is the practical budget pick.

If your problem is simple — brief outages knock out the modem and router, then everything takes several minutes to reboot — this is the kind of UPS that solves it without turning the project into a home-lab upgrade.

  • 650VA / 390W capacity
  • Compact design
  • LCD battery display
  • Energy-saving outlets

Buy this if: you want an affordable UPS for a modem and router.

Skip it if: you also need to support multiple access points, a PoE switch, a NAS, or a network closet.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Compact UPS for Small Setups: APC BE650G1

The APC BE650G1 is a small UPS designed for simple networking setups.

  • 650VA / 390W capacity
  • compact footprint
  • 8 outlets
  • user-replaceable battery

If you only want to keep a modem and router running, this compact UPS can do the job without taking up much space. It is especially appealing if your equipment lives on a shelf, in a corner, or anywhere a larger UPS would be awkward.

Check the latest price

How Long Can a UPS Keep Your Internet Running?

Runtime depends on the combined power consumption of your modem, router and other equipment, as well as the UPS battery’s usable capacity and efficiency at low loads. A 1000VA rating indicates the maximum electrical load the UPS is designed to support; it does not mean the battery can deliver 1,000 watts for an hour.

Start by estimating or measuring the combined wattage of everything that needs to stay online. Then compare that load with the manufacturer’s runtime chart for the exact UPS model. For perspective, CyberPower rates the CP1000PFCLCD for approximately six minutes at half its rated 600W load, but that figure cannot be extrapolated directly into a reliable runtime promise at 20 or 30 watts.

Finally, test your equipment with the UPS running on battery. Even if your modem and router remain powered, the internet connection may fail if your provider’s equipment elsewhere in the neighborhood loses electricity.

How Much UPS Capacity Do You Actually Need for a Router and Modem?

This is one of the biggest mistakes people make when shopping for a UPS. They assume they need a huge battery backup because that is what they would need for a gaming PC or home server.

For a modem and router, that usually is not true.

If your combined load is only 20 to 40 watts, even a modest UPS can provide meaningful runtime. The bigger units are useful if:

  • you want much longer runtime
  • you also want to power access points, switches, or cameras
  • you want extra overhead and flexibility

For a simple setup, the budget and compact models are often enough. For more complicated home networks, the larger units become easier to justify.

Need Backup Power for More Than Your Internet?

A UPS is ideal for keeping a modem, router and other networking equipment alive through short outages. But if you also want to run a refrigerator, freezer, lights or other household equipment, you quickly move beyond normal UPS territory.

For longer outages, see our guide to portable power stations vs. generators. If a battery system makes more sense for you, we also compared the best 2kWh portable power stations for home backup.

UPS Features That Matter for Networking Equipment

When choosing a UPS for routers and modems, these features matter most:

  • Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) to stabilize power fluctuations
  • pure sine wave output for sensitive electronics
  • surge protection for networking hardware
  • sufficient outlets for your modem, router, and other equipment

You do not necessarily need the most expensive UPS on the market, but you do want one that handles brownouts and voltage fluctuations gracefully. Those are often more common than full outages.

If you want to understand these features in more detail, see this guide to choosing a UPS with the right features.

If you are deciding between UPS models for a router, NAS, home server, or monitoring setup, that broader UPS feature guide goes deeper on AVR, PFC compatibility, USB shutdown, and replaceable batteries.

When a UPS Makes the Biggest Difference for Home Internet

A UPS battery backup is especially useful if:

  • power flickers frequently
  • you work from home
  • your security cameras rely on internet connectivity
  • your smart home devices depend on cloud services
  • your modem takes several minutes to come back online after a power outage

Even brief outages can lead to several minutes of downtime while a modem and router reboot. A UPS prevents that interruption entirely and can make your home internet feel much more reliable.

The same logic applies if your home network supports leak sensors, door and window sensors, smoke/CO alerts, or remote cameras. Those alerts are only useful if the network stays online long enough to send them. For more on that side of the setup, see my guides to Govee leak sensors, door and window sensors for a vacation home, and smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

What I Would Buy

For most people, I would buy the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD. It has enough capacity for a normal home network, gives you room to add a switch or access point, and avoids the regret of buying the smallest possible UPS.

For a very simple modem-and-router setup, I would save money with the CyberPower EC650LCD or APC BE650G1.

For a larger network closet, I would move up to the APC BR1500MS2.

The main thing is not to put your entire office on the UPS just because there are empty outlets. Use it for the networking gear that keeps the house online. That is where a UPS gives you the most value for the least battery drain.

 

Published on March 29, 2026
Full Post
Smoke detector chirping at night due to sealed 10-year battery reaching end of life
0 Responses

Your Smoke Detector Won’t Stop Chirping? The Hidden 10-Year Battery Problem

You come home after being away for a few days and hear it immediately.

Chirp… chirp… chirp.

Your smoke detector won’t stop chirping.

Naturally, you assume the smoke detector battery needs to be replaced. You press reset, maybe flip the breaker, and expect the noise to stop.

Except it doesn’t.

That happened to me recently. I had been away for a while, came into the house, and heard the beeping. I tried hitting reset, but that did nothing. I removed the unit and realized it was hardwired. After some searching, I discovered the real issue: the detector had an integrated 10-year battery that could not be replaced. To make the sound stop, I had to physically disable the unit with a screwdriver and then replace the alarm entirely.

That experience sent me down a rabbit hole, and I suspect many homeowners are about to have the same one.

Quick Answer: Why a Smoke Detector Chirps Even After Replacing the Battery

If your smoke detector chirps even after resetting it or replacing the battery, the unit may have a sealed 10-year battery and the detector itself has reached the end of its lifespan. In that case the entire alarm must be replaced rather than the battery.

Why This Problem Is Suddenly Becoming Common

Many homeowners are encountering this issue for the first time because sealed 10-year smoke detectors became much more common roughly 10 to 15 years ago. In fact, some places, for example, New York, no longer allow the sale of ones with replaceable batteries.

These units were designed to solve a real safety problem. Traditional detectors used replaceable batteries, and some people removed the batteries to stop nuisance alarms and forgot to reinstall them. When it comes to hardwired smoke detectors, the battery serves as a backup if the power goes out.

Manufacturers responded by introducing alarms with sealed lithium batteries designed to last the life of the detector. The trade-off is that once the battery or sensor reaches the end of its lifespan, you cannot replace the battery. The entire smoke detector must be replaced.

If your detectors were installed in the early or mid-2010s, you may now be hearing their end-of-life warning chirp for the first time.

The Real Reason a Smoke Detector Keeps Chirping

Smoke detectors can chirp for several reasons, but one of the most confusing is the end-of-life warning used by many modern alarms.

Many detectors now:

  • use a sealed 10-year lithium battery
  • are hardwired but include a sealed backup battery
  • chirp every 30–60 seconds when the unit reaches end of life
  • must be replaced entirely once this happens

That is why pressing reset often does not fix the problem. The detector is not asking for a new battery. It is telling you the entire alarm has expired.

How to Tell If You Have a Sealed 10-Year Smoke Detector

Take the detector down and inspect it carefully. Signs you are dealing with a sealed battery alarm include:

  • no removable battery compartment
  • “10-year sealed battery” printed on the back
  • an installation date close to or more than 10 years old. Smoke detectors include a place to write this on the device. You can also set a calendar reminder or keep a spreadsheet if you are the sort to do so.
  • instructions referencing permanent battery deactivation

If you forgot or it is unreadable, check the manufacture date. Most smoke detectors have a manufacture date printed on the back. If the unit is around 10 years old, it should be replaced even if it appears to work normally.

How to Test a Smoke Detector Battery

The easiest way to test a smoke alarm is to use the test button on the alarm itself. Press and hold the button according to the manufacturer’s instructions until the alarm sounds.

A successful test tells you that the alarm can respond to its built-in test function. It does not mean an old alarm should remain in service indefinitely. Smoke alarms still need to be replaced when they reach the end of their rated life.

If the smoke detector has a replaceable battery

  1. Install a fresh battery of the type specified on the alarm.
  2. Make sure the battery is seated correctly and the compartment closes completely.
  3. Press and hold the test button until the alarm sounds.
  4. If the alarm still chirps, check the manufacture date and the manufacturer’s chirp code.

If a new battery does not stop the chirping, the problem may be the alarm rather than the battery.

If the smoke detector has a sealed 10-year battery

There is no battery to remove and test separately. Use the alarm’s test button. If the unit is near the end of its rated life, continues chirping, or fails its test, replace the entire alarm according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

The National Fire Protection Association recommends testing smoke alarms every month and replacing smoke alarms when they reach 10 years of age. See the NFPA smoke-alarm guidance.

Why Resetting the Detector Often Does Nothing

When homeowners hear chirping, they usually try the obvious fixes:

  • pressing the reset button
  • cutting power at the breaker
  • looking for a battery compartment
  • disconnecting and reconnecting the alarm

These steps make sense, but they cannot revive a sealed-battery detector that has reached the end of its service life. The chirp is a built-in warning that the unit itself needs to be replaced.

How I Finally Stopped the Chirping

In my case, the alarm was hardwired, which made things more confusing. I assumed there had to be a replaceable backup battery somewhere.

There was not.

What finally worked was removing the detector and finding the battery disable mechanism. Many sealed alarms include a small tab or switch that permanently disconnects the internal battery when the unit is removed for disposal. Using a screwdriver to activate that mechanism stopped the chirping.

Of course, that also meant the alarm was finished and needed to be replaced.

How to Stop a Chirping Smoke Detector for Good

If the detector has reached end of life, the permanent solution is replacement.

The process usually looks like this:

  1. Remove the detector from its mounting plate.
  2. Check the manufacture date on the back.
  3. Confirm whether it uses a sealed battery.
  4. Disable the old alarm if it continues chirping after removal.
  5. Install a new compatible smoke detector.

If several alarms were installed at the same time, it may be worth checking the age of the others in your home as well.

Choosing a Replacement Smoke Detector

If the alarm has reached the end of its life, replacement is the repair. Before ordering a new one, take the old alarm down and check the manufacturer, model number, power source and whether it is interconnected with other alarms in the house.

Do not assume every hardwired alarm is interchangeable. Different manufacturers and product families can use different connectors and interconnect requirements.

If You Need… Start With…
Hardwired smoke + CO alarm with a 10-year backup battery Kidde 30CUA10-V
Battery-powered smoke + CO alarm with a sealed 10-year battery Kidde 30CUD10-V
Smart alarm with remote Ring notifications Kidde Ring Smart Smoke + CO Alarm

Those are only the quick choices. Hardwired compatibility, smoke-only versus combination detection, smart-home support and existing interconnection can all change which alarm makes sense.

For the full comparison, see our updated guide to the best smoke and carbon monoxide detectors in 2026.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Why Smoke Detector Chirping Often Starts at Night

Many people notice the chirping begins overnight or in the early morning. That is not a coincidence.

Lower nighttime temperatures can slightly reduce battery voltage. When a battery is already weak or nearing end of life, that drop can trigger the alarm’s warning system. The detector may have been close to failure already, and cooler overnight conditions push it over the threshold.

Unfortunately, that means these alarms tend to start chirping at the most annoying possible time.

When a Chirping Smoke Detector Means It’s Time to Replace the Alarm

If your smoke detector chirps even after resetting it or replacing the battery, the detector itself may have reached the end of its lifespan.

Many smoke alarms installed over the last 10 to 15 years contain sealed batteries designed to last the life of the detector. Once that life ends, the only real solution is replacing the entire alarm.

If your unit is about a decade old, the chirping is usually not a glitch. It is the detector telling you it is done.

Published on March 26, 2026
Full Post
0 Responses

How to Choose a UPS: AVR, PFC, USB Shutdown, and Battery Backup Features

Buying a UPS sounds like it should be simple. Pick a battery backup, plug in the important stuff, and stop worrying about power outages.

Unfortunately, UPS shopping gets weird quickly. Some models are meant for routers and modems. Some are better for desktops. Some are designed for active PFC power supplies. Some can tell a NAS or home server to shut down cleanly. Some have replaceable batteries. Some are basically disposable power strips with a battery inside.

The right UPS depends less on the brand name and more on what you are trying to protect.

People buying power strips don’t think that much about them. But not only are UPSes designed to protect your devices, they are designed to keep them running during a power outage. How do you pick the right combination of features and price? In a previous post, I talked about how a problem with my UPS could have caused disaster.

Quick Answer: What UPS Features Actually Matter?

The most important UPS features are enough battery capacity for your load, automatic voltage regulation, replaceable batteries, surge protection, and a USB or network data connection if you need a computer, NAS, or home server to shut down cleanly. For modern desktop PCs and some servers, you may also want a UPS designed for active PFC power supplies.

Feature Why It Matters Who Needs It Most
Enough VA/watt capacity The UPS has to handle the devices plugged into it Everyone
Automatic Voltage Regulation Helps smooth brownouts and voltage dips without switching to battery Areas with unstable power
Replaceable battery Lets you replace the battery instead of throwing out the UPS Anyone keeping a UPS for years
USB/data port Allows clean shutdown for a NAS, desktop, or home server NAS, homelab, desktop PC users
Active PFC compatibility Helps avoid problems with modern PC/server power supplies Desktops, workstations, some servers
LCD/status display Shows load, runtime, voltage, and battery condition Useful, not always essential

APC vs. CyberPower: Which UPS Brand Should You Choose?

APC and CyberPower are the two consumer UPS brands most people run into first. I have used both. Neither is perfect, and I would not make the decision on brand alone.

For basic protection, either brand can be a big improvement over plugging important equipment straight into the wall. The better question is whether the specific model has the features your setup needs: enough capacity, replaceable battery, USB shutdown support, AVR, and the right waveform/PFC support for the devices you are protecting.

In recent years, I have mostly bought CyberPower units because the feature mix has worked well for my networking equipment and homelab gear. That does not mean every CyberPower model is the right model, or that APC is wrong. It means you should compare the actual unit, not just the logo.

AVR, PFC, and Cleaner Power: What These UPS Features Mean

The UPS feature list can look like alphabet soup, but a few features are worth understanding.

  • AVR, or Automatic Voltage Regulation: AVR helps correct voltage dips or surges without immediately switching to battery. That can matter if your power flickers, sags, or runs a little unstable.
  • PFC, or Power Factor Correction: Many modern computer power supplies use active PFC. If you are protecting a desktop PC, workstation, or server, make sure the UPS is compatible with that kind of load.
  • USB or data port: This lets a NAS, desktop, or home server know when the UPS is on battery so it can shut down safely before the battery dies.
  • Replaceable battery: UPS batteries wear out. If the battery cannot be replaced, the whole unit becomes a future e-waste project.
  • LCD/status display: Not essential, but useful for seeing load, runtime, battery condition, and voltage at a glance.

Choose the UPS Based on What You Are Protecting

A router, a NAS, and a desktop gaming PC do not need the same UPS.

Use Case What Matters Most What I’d Prioritize
Router and modem Long runtime at low power draw Efficient UPS, enough outlets, simple status monitoring
NAS Clean shutdown and uptime during short outages USB data connection, replaceable battery, enough runtime
Home server Graceful shutdown and stable power USB/network shutdown, AVR, PFC compatibility
Desktop PC Avoid sudden shutdowns Enough watt capacity, PFC compatibility, AVR
Security or smart-home gear Keeping monitoring online Runtime, router/modem backup, simple alerts

If your goal is mainly to keep the internet online during an outage, see my more specific guide to the best UPS for router and modem backup.

UPS Models I’d Consider

For a fuller-featured CyberPower unit, I would look at the CyberPower CP1000PFCLED or a similar model in that family. The reason to choose this tier is not just bigger battery capacity. It is the feature set: AVR, active PFC support, replaceable battery, data port, and LCD status display.

That kind of UPS makes more sense for a desktop, homelab server, NAS setup, or anything where a clean shutdown matters.

For lighter networking gear, the CyberPower EC650LCD can make more sense. It still has useful features like an LCD screen, replaceable battery, and data port, but it is better suited to lower-power equipment such as networking devices, small accessories, or a simpler monitoring setup.

I use the less expensive model for some of my networking equipment and the fuller-featured one for my homelab server. That split is the real lesson: do not buy one UPS model for every job just because it is familiar.

My Minimum UPS Requirements

For anything I expect to keep using for years, I want at least two things:

  • A replaceable battery: UPS batteries are consumables. If the battery cannot be replaced, the UPS has a built-in expiration date.
  • A data port: If the UPS is protecting a computer, NAS, or server, it should be able to tell that device when it is running on battery so the system can shut down cleanly.

For simple router/modem backup, the data port may matter less. For a NAS or home server, it matters a lot.

AVR and PFC support are not always mandatory, but they become much more important as the equipment gets more expensive or sensitive.

UPS Backup For Home Monitoring Systems

If you are using smart-home gear to monitor a second home, vacation home, cameras, leak sensors, or smoke/CO alerts, the router and modem become part of the safety system. If the network dies, the alerts may stop reaching you.

That does not mean every sensor needs a huge UPS. It does mean your modem, router, network switch, and possibly your camera/NVR setup deserve backup power.

For the broader monitoring setup, see my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

Choosing the Right UPS

A UPS is not just a bigger power strip. It is part battery, part surge protector, part power conditioner, and sometimes part shutdown controller.

The right choice depends on what you are protecting. A router needs runtime. A NAS needs clean shutdown. A desktop needs enough capacity and PFC compatibility. A home monitoring setup needs the network to stay online long enough to send alerts.

Buy for the job, not just the brand.

Published on March 19, 2026
Full Post
cutting the cord ditching cable for youtube tv
1 Response

YouTube TV Review: Cutting the Cord After Years of Cable

The day has finally come. After years of saying I would relinquish my cable card and my homemade DVR only when forced, my provider has made that decision for me. I still have broadcast, such as it is, but this seemed like a good time, when my provider has said that it will cease to work in the not too distant future, to try something new.

There are two types of cord cutting:

  • Subscriptions to Individual Streaming Services
  • Live TV Subscriptions

Live TV being a replacement for cable TV in functionality. I have traditional family members who are only slowly learning they don’t need appointment TV all the time. But they still want it. So, how do we solve this problem?

I decided to try a trial period of YouTube TV. Most people seem to consider it the gold standard for internet based Live TV. Some of the other providers are less expensive and may better suit you, but even the most expensive YouTube TV plan may be less than you are paying your cable provider noawadays.

Make a List of What Content You Want

What actually is important to you? What channels do you want? Do you watch sports? News? Etc. For exclusive streamers, which ones have the content you want? Is there anything you want to watch live? Or is live just about serendipity…as it helps you choose random things to watch?

YouTube TV: The Features

  • Six individual family accounts
  • Unlimited DVR Space, shows expire in a few months.
  • Three simultaneous things can be watched at once
  • Their 4K Plus add on adds unlimited streams, offline downloads, and some 4K content. 4K content is only available for playback on some devices.
  • Add Ons of various streaming services

YouTube TV: A Simple Review

I wasn’t sure what to expect.

  • Faster Release – The first advantage of having a DVR is that the program is available live, and immediately thereafter. No waiting till the next day after airing to watch it. If earlier is something you want.
  • Live TV Anywhere – You can watch this on the go, or on vacation.
  • Customization – There are no channel numbers, so you can rearrange the guide and hide the channels you don’t want. You can avoid the guide entirely and approach it from a show or movie point of view.
  • Intuitive Interface – The interface is familiar to anyone who has used YouTube or similar services. Even my technologically challenged relatives can handle it.

What YouTube TV Replaces From a Traditional DVR

  • Cable DVR hardware

  • CableCARD setup

  • Recording limits

  • Watching TV outside the house

Is YouTube TV Worth It?

If you are looking for a cable replacement with DVR functionality, YouTube TV is one of the best options currently available.

What YouTube TV does particularly well:

• Unlimited DVR storage
• Multiple family accounts
• Live TV anywhere
• Easy interface even for non-technical users

The biggest drawback is price. At $82.99 per month, YouTube TV is no longer dramatically cheaper than cable for some households.

However, if your current cable package includes:

  • equipment rental fees

  • DVR fees

  • regional sports fees

  • broadcast surcharges

YouTube TV may still end up being less expensive overall.

For many households, the real benefit is simplicity — no hardware, no installations, and access to your recordings from anywhere.

YouTube TV vs Cable TV

For many households the real comparison is not between streaming services, but between YouTube TV and traditional cable TV.

Feature YouTube TV Traditional Cable
DVR Unlimited cloud DVR Limited storage DVR, often at additional service cost
Equipment No dedicated hardware required Cable box + DVR rental
Watching Away From Home Works anywhere with internet Usually limited to home network, some limited mobile options
Setup Sign up online Technician or equipment installation
Price ~$82.99/month Often $90–$150 with fees

The biggest difference is flexibility.

With cable, recordings are tied to your DVR hardware. With YouTube TV, recordings are stored in the cloud and accessible from any device.

For households that travel frequently or want to watch on phones, tablets, and laptops, this can be a major advantage.

Conclusion: YouTube TV Is Compelling, Even with Budget Alternatives

The one possible stumbling block with YouTube TV is the base price of $82.99. It is at the higher end of the cable replacement services, but that is still again, less than many cable plans. But YouTube TV in February announced that they would introduce new less expensive plans that focus on different preferences, should you need fewer channels. After my promotional discount is over, I may look to pare down the selection. But for now, it may be time to call my cable provider and see how much cancelling TV through them will save me.

Because while bundle discounts may mean my internet through them will go up, it should hopefully be a net win.

Published on March 15, 2026
Full Post
UPS batteries fail silently
0 Responses

UPS Batteries May Only Last 2–3 Years (And They Usually Fail Without Warning)

Last week I walked into my office and discovered that several of my computer systems were down.

Everything about it looked like a power outage.

Except there hadn’t been one.

All of the equipment was connected to a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) — essentially a battery backup power strip designed to keep systems running during outages.

But despite the name uninterruptible, everything had shut off.

UPS Batteries Don’t Last Forever

Most consumer UPS units use sealed lead-acid batteries. The typical lifespan is:

  • 2–3 years in normal conditions
  • shorter in warm environments
  • shorter if the UPS frequently switches to battery

Once the battery degrades enough, the UPS can no longer provide power and the unit may simply shut down when power fluctuates.

Many consumer UPS devices, such as mine,  provide little or no reliable warning before this happens. Silent failures defeat the purpose of a protective device.

My New Maintenance Plan

After this latest failure, I needed to adopt a much more systematic approach.

  1. Only buy UPSes with swappable batteries – the budget models often lack
  2. Label Every Battery – The date of installation of each battery will be labeled on the unit and on the battery.
  3. Perform Regular Hard Tests –

At regular intervals:

    • Power down connected equipment
    • Unplug the UPS from the wall
    • Confirm that the battery engages.
    • Optionally plug in a small device to verify the UPS actually provides power under load.

 

A UPS is not a “set it and forget it” device. If you rely on one to protect important systems — servers, networking gear, or workstations — you need to treat the battery as consumable component. Plan to replace it every few years and test it occasionally. Most UPS manufacturers recommend replacing sealed lead-acid batteries every 3 years, even if the device still appears to function normally.

Otherwise, the day you actually need the UPS may be the day you discover it stopped working long ago.

Published on March 12, 2026
Full Post
Compact travel keyboard with laptop and backpack, illustrating the best travel keyboards in 2026
1 Response

Best Travel Keyboards in 2026: Mechanical, Foldable, and Portable Options

updated July 21, 2026

The best travel keyboard in 2026 depends on whether you need something foldable, mechanical, ultra-light, or wireless. Here are the best portable keyboards for working on the go.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Product links may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

Quick answer: For most people, the best travel keyboard is the thinnest keyboard they can comfortably type on for more than a few minutes. I would start with the Keychron B1 Pro if you want something cheap, thin, and quiet. If you want a low-profile mechanical keyboard, look at the Keychron K3 QMK. If you want the more premium low-profile feel, compare the NuPhy Air75 V2.

Quick Picks: Best Travel Keyboards in 2026

Use case Best pick Why I’d choose it Check price
Best cheap thin travel keyboard Keychron B1 Pro Thin, quiet, inexpensive, and closer to a laptop-style typing feel than a compact mechanical board. Check price
Best low-profile mechanical travel keyboard Keychron K3 QMK A practical travel-friendly mechanical keyboard if you want real switches without carrying a chunky board. Check price
Best premium low-profile option NuPhy Air75 V2 A nicer-feeling low-profile mechanical keyboard for people who want a better typing experience and can spare the space. Check price
Best smaller NuPhy option NuPhy Air60 V2 Smaller than the Air75, with the same general low-profile travel-keyboard appeal. Check price
Best split travel keyboard Epomaker Split65 A budget way to try a split layout that can pack more flexibly than a one-piece keyboard. Check price
Best tiny mechanical keyboard Keychron Q9 Very small and very portable, but only a good fit if you already like compact layouts or are willing to learn one. Check price

There are a few approaches to travel keyboards. In previous years, I looked at folding keyboards as one possible solution, but a lot of them do not feel good enough for real typing. Choosing a travel keyboard usually comes down to the compromise you can live with: thinner, smaller, quieter, more mechanical, or more ergonomic.

Most of the mechanical options below use open source firmware or offer strong layout customization, and several have hotswap switch options. But if you care more about thinness than switch feel, a scissor-switch board may be the better travel keyboard than a tiny mechanical board.

Best Cheap Thin Travel Keyboard: Keychron B1 Pro

The Keychron B1 Pro is the travel keyboard I would look at first if thinness, price, and quiet typing matter more than a mechanical feel. It is closer to the kind of keyboard you might expect from a laptop or slim desktop setup, which can be a strength when you are trying to keep a travel bag light.

Buy this if: you want a thin, inexpensive Bluetooth keyboard that is easy to pack and does not need to feel like a full mechanical board.

Skip it if: you specifically want mechanical switches, hotswap options, or a heavier enthusiast typing feel.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Low-Profile Mechanical Travel Keyboard: Keychron K3 QMK

The Keychron K3 QMK is the more natural choice if you want a real mechanical keyboard but do not want to travel with a tall, heavy board. The low-profile layout makes more sense in a travel bag than a standard-height mechanical keyboard, while QMK support gives you more room to customize the layout.

Buy this if: you want a travel-friendly mechanical keyboard with a more serious typing feel than a scissor-switch board.

Skip it if: you mostly care about thinness, quiet typing, or the lowest possible travel weight.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Premium Low-Profile Travel Keyboard: NuPhy Air75 V2

The NuPhy Air75 V2 is the premium low-profile option I would compare against the Keychron boards. It is a better fit if you care about typing feel and are willing to give up a little more bag space for a nicer keyboard.

Buy this if: you want a nicer low-profile mechanical keyboard and do not need the smallest possible travel setup.

Skip it if: you want the cheapest thin keyboard or you need something smaller than a 75% layout.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Smaller NuPhy Option: NuPhy Air60 V2

The NuPhy Air60 V2 is the more compact NuPhy option. It keeps the low-profile mechanical feel but takes up less space than the Air75, which can matter if you are trying to build a smaller travel kit.

Buy this if: you like the NuPhy low-profile idea but want a smaller board than the Air75.

Skip it if: you rely heavily on dedicated keys and would be annoyed by the compromises of a smaller layout.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Split Travel Keyboard: Epomaker Split65

The Epomaker Split65 is the interesting travel option if you want to try a split layout without building a custom board. A split keyboard can pack differently than a one-piece keyboard, and it can be easier to position in a cramped hotel-room or travel-desk setup.

Buy this if: you want a split layout that is still realistic to travel with.

Skip it if: you want the simplest possible keyboard or you do not want to adjust to a split layout while traveling.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Tiny Mechanical Keyboard: Keychron Q9

The Keychron Q9 is the tiny mechanical option for people who are already comfortable with compact layouts. It is small enough to be genuinely portable, but the layout is part of the deal. This is not the board I would recommend to someone who wants a normal typing experience with no adjustment period.

Buy this if: you already like compact mechanical keyboards and want something very small for travel.

Skip it if: you need a conventional layout or do not want to relearn key positions on the road.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Which Travel Keyboard Should You Choose?

If I were buying a travel keyboard today, I would start by deciding whether I care more about thinness or typing feel.

The simplest answer is probably the Keychron B1 Pro. It is thin, quiet, and easy to pack. The more enthusiast answer is the Keychron K3 QMK or NuPhy Air75 V2, depending on how much space you are willing to give a keyboard in your bag.

Related Travel Tech

A keyboard is only one part of a portable work setup. If you also work from hotels, see my guide to the best travel router for hotel Wi-Fi.

How to Think About Travel Keyboard Size

The right travel keyboard is usually the smallest or thinnest keyboard you can pack and still enjoy using. A keyboard that is technically portable but unpleasant to type on will stay in your bag.

A thin scissor-switch keyboard like the Keychron B1 Pro makes sense if you want something light, quiet, and easy to carry. A low-profile mechanical keyboard like the Keychron K3 QMK, NuPhy Air60 V2, or NuPhy Air75 V2 makes sense if typing feel matters more than saving every ounce.

Split keyboards are more specialized. They can pack well because they separate into two pieces, but they also require more adjustment. Very small mechanical keyboards, including 40% layouts, are even more personal. They can be wonderfully portable, but they are best for people who already like compact layouts or are willing to learn one.

I still like tiny keyboards, and I sell supplies for them at MechDreams, but I would not tell most travelers to start there. For most people, the safer first choice is a thin keyboard or a low-profile mechanical board.

Published on February 20, 2026
Full Post
0 Responses

How to Supercharge Your Alerts with Ntfy: Priorities, Actions, and Smart Integrations

Previously, I wrote about using Ntfy as a notification system for Uptime Kuma. But the system has a lot of other advantages, so I wanted to go into a bit more detail on how it can be used.

Ntfy works on channels. Channels manifest as paths under the server URL. For example, ntfy.sh/gadgetwisdom would be a gadgetwisdom channel. By default, the ones on the public server are all public, meaning that you can only hide or restrict them by having a hard to guess channel name, if you host the server, you can add access control globally, or on a per channel basis to require authentication for subscribing, publishing, or both.

  • Priorities – Ntfy supports custom priorities from 1 to 5, with 3 being the default.
  • Templates – If a service sends data in JSON format, you can write a template for Ntfy to interpret it, rather than having to set up something in between to do that.
  • Action Buttons –  You can add buttons to view a webpage, send a http request to a URL, or on Android only, trigger an Android intent.
  • Attachments – You can send attachments using a file or URL link in a message. Files expire in a few hours, but linked files would be available longer.
  • Icons – To help identify different messages, notifications can have an icon.
  • Phone Calls – Ntfy supports via a Twilio account notifying people via phone using text to speech.

This leaves a lot of creative opportunities for integrations.

  • Maybe I want to have urgent messages phoned to certain people. Setting priority levels and noises can also help with this.
  • Action buttons could allow me to instantly react to alerts with simple actions.
  • Attachments already let me view snapshots from my Frigate feed, but what else could I send.

As I look to better integrate this, this service reveals a lot of simple options I can leverage.

Published on December 1, 2025
Full Post
Portable travel router next to a laptop and phone in a hotel room, illustrating the best travel router for hotel Wi-Fi in 2026
1 Response

Best Travel Router for Hotel Wi-Fi in 2026

There are many reasons to use a travel router when on the go. For example, protecting yourself from malicious actors on hotel wifi. As I write this, I am in an extended stay at a foreign hotel. The hotel TV has built in YouTube and streaming, and on three occasions so far, the TV has been taken over by people in other rooms apparently by accident.

At minimum, a travel router isolates your devices from the other people on the hotel wifi. But it can do so much more. It can allow you to add a streaming device to the TV, as many cannot navigate the captive portal. Many can support a connected USB drive to act as a simple media server to stream to the device you connect to your TV.

Finally, your device can act as a VPN gateway for your devices, something I am doing with my travel router as we speak. Every web request is running through my VPN server in my apartment. My current preference has been the GL.iNet line of travel routers. They run a variant of an open firmware and have general been reliable. I have had several.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Product links may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

Quick answer: For most travelers, I would start with the GL.iNet Beryl AX. It is small, modern, fast enough for normal hotel Wi-Fi, and usually the easiest recommendation if you are buying today. If you already own the GL.iNet Slate Plus, I would keep using it unless you need more speed. If you want the premium model and do not mind paying more, the GL.iNet Slate 7 is the one to compare.

Quick Picks: Best Travel Routers for Hotel Wi-Fi

Use case Best pick Why I’d choose it Check price
Best for most travelers GL.iNet Beryl AX Modern Wi-Fi 6, compact size, strong travel-router feature set, and better value than chasing the newest model for hotel Wi-Fi. Check price
Best proven older model GL.iNet Slate Plus The model I have used while traveling. Still a practical pick if the price is right and you do not need Wi-Fi 6. Check price
Best faster Slate option GL.iNet Slate AX A stronger Slate-series router with Wi-Fi 6 and more performance headroom. Check price
Best premium option GL.iNet Slate 7 The premium pick if you specifically want Wi-Fi 7, dual 2.5G ports, USB-C power, and the touchscreen. Check price

 

Best Travel Router for Most People: GL.iNet Beryl AX

The GL.iNet Beryl AX is the travel router I would look at first if I were buying today. It is small, modern, and more than enough for the normal travel-router jobs: isolating your devices from the rest of the hotel network, sharing a VPN connection, connecting a streaming stick, and avoiding the hassle of signing every device into a captive portal.

Buy this if: you want one compact travel router that should handle most hotel Wi-Fi, rental-house, and temporary work setups without spending for the newest premium model.

Skip it if: you specifically want the Slate line’s Ethernet layout or the premium features on the Slate 7.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Proven Older Model: GL.iNet Slate Plus

The GL.iNet Slate Plus is the travel router I have actually been using on the road. That counts for something. Travel routers are not only about wireless specs. They need to handle weird hotel Wi-Fi, captive portals, VPN connections, streaming devices, and temporary work setups without turning every hotel stay into a networking project.

Buy this if: you want a proven GL.iNet travel router and find it at a good price.

Skip it if: the Beryl AX is close in price. At that point, I would usually buy the newer model.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Faster Slate Option: GL.iNet Slate AX

The GL.iNet Slate AX is the better fit if you like the Slate line but want more performance. It gives you more headroom than the Slate Plus, which may be useful if you travel with several devices, share a VPN connection, or use the router in temporary work setups where reliability matters.

Buy this if: you want a stronger Slate-series router and do not mind paying more than the basic travel-router options.

Skip it if: your main use is occasional hotel Wi-Fi and the Beryl AX is cheaper.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Premium Travel Router: GL.iNet Slate 7

The GL.iNet Slate 7 is the premium option. It adds newer hardware, faster networking features, USB-C power, and a touchscreen. Those are useful upgrades, but they are not automatically necessary in a hotel room. In many hotels, the internet connection itself will be the bottleneck before the router is.

Buy this if: you specifically want the newer hardware, 2.5G ports, and the touchscreen.

Skip it if: you mainly want a simple travel router for hotel Wi-Fi. The Beryl AX or Slate Plus will usually be the better value.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Which GL.iNet Travel Router Should You Choose?

If I were buying today, I would start with the Beryl AX. It is the easiest recommendation for most people because it gives you a modern travel router without paying for premium features that many hotel Wi-Fi setups cannot really use.

  • Most travelers: Beryl AX
  • Already own a Slate Plus: keep using it unless it is limiting you
  • Want a faster Slate: Slate AX
  • Want the premium model: Slate 7

Do You Need Wi-Fi 7 or 2.5G Ethernet in a Travel Router?

Usually, no. Wi-Fi 7 and 2.5G Ethernet are useful features, but they are rarely the thing holding you back in a hotel. The hotel’s internet connection, captive portal, room location, and shared network load usually matter more than the router’s maximum theoretical speed.

That is why I would not automatically buy the most expensive travel router. For most people, reliability, VPN support, captive-portal handling, size, and power are more important than chasing the newest Wi-Fi number.

Why I Started Traveling With a Router

I started carrying a travel router because hotel Wi-Fi is often awkward in exactly the ways that matter: captive portals, streaming devices that cannot log in easily, devices exposed on the same network as other guests, and VPN setups that become annoying when every device has to be configured separately.

On my current trip, I have been using the GL.iNet Slate Plus. It still works, which is why I do not think every traveler needs to chase the newest model. But if I were buying today, I would start with the Beryl AX unless I specifically wanted the Slate 7’s newer hardware and touchscreen.

My Pick For Best Travel Router

If I were buying one travel router today, I would start with the GL.iNet Beryl AX. It is the best balance of size, features, maturity, and price for most travelers. I would only move up to the Slate 7 if I specifically wanted the screen, Wi-Fi 7, or 2.5G Ethernet ports.

Related Travel Tech

A travel router pairs well with a compact keyboard, a USB-C charger, and a small power strip. See my guide to the best travel keyboards if you are building a portable work setup.

Published on November 27, 2025
Full Post

Get New Posts By Email