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As WordPress Leader Rants, Time To Reach For a Classic With ClassicPress

On my personal website, I do occasionally talk about the future of WordPress and my issues in developing plugins for my own use. But I also maintain the Gadget Wisdom infrastructure. So, recently, I wrote about switching my personal site to ClassicPress. I’m going to continue to write about that there, but wanted to cover a little of this here, in a different context.

Recent drama at WordPress finds a lot of people exploring exits from the community. WordPress drama is not a new thing. There were many times during the transition from WordPress 4.9 to 5.0 I considered leaving. But having built many things on top of a platform, I opted to remain.

More recently, I switched this site over to ClassicPress as well, a fork of WordPress. ClassicPress has a simple plugin to migrate WordPress instances…it will even let you revert back if need be. So, while the drama over on the WordPress side may continue, I get to keep the platform without the elements that frustrate me. There are concerns about ClassicPress as well. WordPress powers a significant percentage of identifiable websites. Forks of projects do not always survive, but there are many examples where they do.

ClassicPress is a fork of WordPress that removes the block editor…WordPress’s big change in Version 5. It retains a traditional editor, which many people prefer, and continues to iterate in that direction. As a result, it is leaner and somewhat more performative. It is WordPress as it used to be…but also with improvements…but in a completely different direction than WordPress while maintaining compatibility. The only problem is that the project doesn’t get the attention it could, especially now that people are questioning the governance of WordPress. But it is WordPress…like it used to be…before it went hard in another direction.

 

Published on December 24, 2024
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Flat Out Awesome: Why Desk Mats Are the Unsung Heroes of Your Workspace

This is one of those topics I hadn’t given much thought to over the years was desk mats. The most popular reason to have a mat on your desk was always for your mouse, but then optical mice came in and made that less needed, and I use a trackball anyway. But more recently, due to the fact I have been trying a lot of different type of keyboards, have become more aware of those accessories around it.

Why a Desk Mat?

  • Protecting the surface of your desk
  • Noise reduction as it reduces vibrations from your keyboard
  • Prevents a keyboard from sliding around your desk.
  • Aesthetics…they come in a variety of colors and designs.
  • If you do have an optical mouse, some surfaces aren’t friendly to it.
  • Cushions your wrist…similarly or in addition to a dedicated wrist rest.

So, I decided to take the same tactic I do with the mat in my bathroom. I have more than one color, and occasionally, when I need a change, I rotate it to change the feel of the place. I bought this mat on Amazon for only $8. You can go even less expensive, or more luxurious. You can choose a larger one, depending on your desk, or a thicker one to reduce vibrations even more. I even saw one on sale not long ago with a built in LED light border if you want your desk to look like something from the movie Tron.

I even carry a slightly smaller mat now in my travel bag to put down my travel keyboard on. It really helps in the uneven places

 

Published on December 5, 2024
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There Is No Place Like Homelab- Why You Need One In Your Life

When I started writing about technology, I don’t think the term homelab existed. I only started hearing it more recently. But like many things, I apparently had one before the term existed. Homelab usually refers to a computer or computers used within your home to experiment. People self-host applications in their homelabs, they build network attached storage, they host and serve their media files. Some people use it to experiment with technologies they might need to or wish to use professionally.

The communities of hobbyists and tech enthusiasts have changed a lot over those years. I still remember when buying a single megabyte of RAM was a big deal, or having a whole 40MB of hard drive space. There is so much out there to experiment with and I’ve been running a homelab without even realizing that’s what I could call it.

A homelab can be as simple as an old retired computer you run a server on. Or it could be a custom built system for purpose. I’ve had both. And I’ve repurposed numerous times before the end of computer hardware’s life cycle.

I’ve written a lot about topics that fall under that previously…self-hosting, storage, media, etc. So, thinking about this under the banner of homelab gives me the chance to talk about this idea of running your own applications on either your home server, or server space you rent outside your house, and the infrastructure I’ve created to do just that. And there is always a new application or new need to experiment with.

A quick warning though. If you experiment in your own home, you do have to be aware that…should you share that home with someone else, that your experiments may affect their quality of life. For example, if you are playing with home automation, they might not appreciate if you cover up the light switches so you can use smart bulbs they can’t control.

That said, let’s get started.

Published on December 4, 2024
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Sitting At The Docker By The Drive Bay: TrueNAS Scale Switches to Docker – But Why Docker?

As part of my continuing, Building My NAS series, I wrote about choosing TrueNAS as the software powering my homebuilt network attached storage device. One of the features of TrueNAS Scale has been the ability to run various self-hosted cloud applications. In the latest version of TrueNAS, the backend for those applications switches to Docker. Docker is arguably the most popular way to deploy pre-built complete applications. It not only isolates each application into its own container, but it simplifies the process of deploying and configuring them.

While the number of applications offered directly in TrueNAS, the switch to Docker allows for tens of thousands of public docker files to set up many more applications than are officially supported.

After years of installing applications on the servers that host them, I’ve reluctantly embraced Docker as a solution for when specific combinations are needed, such as specific versions of software. Looking at why other people use it, it is the…”it just works” philosophy. You can install an application, reinstall it cleanly, isolate it from other things…simplicity has its advantages.

It makes Docker a great way to quickly switch from third party services to your own. And combined with a system like TrueNAS providing storage solutions, it can create the basis for a complete solution for yourself and your home.

Published on December 1, 2024
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Key-ping a Low Profile- Is a Low Profile(Ultra-Slim) Keyboard the Best Keyboard for Travel?

I recently took two trips out of town. I have been evolving my hotel room set up for years after my employer had me spend extended times in hotel rooms and it always involves an external mechanical keyboard. I had written about the folding keyboard search as part of this previously. In that article, I only mentioned the Royal Kludge F68 in that context as a mechanical low profile keyboard that folds. But I didn’t talk about low profile keyboards themselves. I’m limiting myself to mechanical keyboards per my preference for them.

A low profile mechanical keyboard, also called an ‘ultra-slim’, even in a larger form factor, can take up less space than a comparable keyboard and still have some of the advantages of mechanical keyboards. Like full size mechanical keyboards, you have keyboards with hotswappable switches and ones without. While they come in larger sizes, for travel a 75% or smaller makes sense.

Some people find the low profile keyboards better for ergonomics. Also, if you are coming from a laptop keyboard, the angle can be similar enough, but it is definitely a more premium experience.

I tried out the Keychron K3. There are several revisions and variants, and the newer ones have QMK/VIA and different wireless capabilities. For example, the K3 Pro which is hotswap and bluetooth.  The K3 is a 75%. The smallest Keychron makes is the K7 at 65%. I was able to get a hotswappable K3 on a deal, and that allows me to try different Gateron low profile switches. It came with Browns, but there are other ones to try that may be more to my liking. Either way, I was perfectly satisfied with using these on those recent trips. I even printed a case to transport it.

There is also the Azio Cascade Slim, which is hotswappable, and finally the more expensive and often reviewed alternative is the Nuphy line. They make the Air60, and Air75 variants that fit into the travel category.

Finally, on the budget side, Royal Kludge, in addition to my F68, has the N80 Low Profile 75%. It includes a little LCD screen. Redragon, also known for being on the less expensive side, has the K652. Both are budget models that get decent, if mixed reviews. The Redragon K652 is hotswappable with the Outemu low profile switches. The Royal Kludge uses their own branded low profiles and is hotswappable. However, some research suggests TTC or Cherry MX LP switches are compatible.

You can also go with the entirely niche, but prebuilt Chosfox Geonix48…another Ortho, or their L75 75% keyboard.

Even kit-wise, if you want to build one. There is the 60% Cerberus from Pikatea….which is ceasing operations in December of 2024. Boardsource has the Equals48 and Equals60 kits, which are both Ortholinear keyboards.

The two most popular low profile switches are the Gateron Low Profile and the Choc V1 Low Profile. The Keychrone, Azio, and Nuphy all use the Gateron type. Choc V1 seems to be the domain of ergonomic type keyboards mostly. Despite the useful utility of this category, it seems as if the low profile market for traditional form factors is limited.

In the end, after all that, there are some good options…and most of the choices come in traditional red, blue, or brown switches, so you should be able to find something to suit your preferences.

 

 

 

 

Published on November 29, 2024
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Retro Gaming and the Original Nintendo

Earlier this summer, I dug my old Nintendo Entertainment System out of a box. I have been trying to reduce the boxes of stuff I retain that I don’t use. I have built some emulators to allow me to relieve some of the games of my youth…but nothing is like the authentic original experience. So I plugged the Nintendo in…and relived the frequent issue of my childhood…the flashing red light. When I was a kid, the solution to that was to blow on the cartridge. However, it is the 21st century now, and I have the internet to research an issue.

After going down some rabbit holes, I discovered that you could add an HDMI output with a board that someone developed…and is no longer sold…and a variety of other interesting items. But I was able to secure a new power adapter, a replacement cartridge connector, and an RCA to HDMI adapter.

So, if you have an old game system in your closet, why not take it out, clean it up, maybe refinish it a bit, and restore it to a place of use?

If you don’t want to do that…there’s always the other way. I discovered I had just missed a large event in my hometown of New York. The Long Island Retro Gaming Expo at the Cradle of Aviation museum. There is a community of enthusiastic people in every fandom if you just look.

In the meantime…can someone help me fix my Super Nintendo?

 

Published on November 19, 2024
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Building A Video Studio

Recently, I agreed to run remote participation for a three track one day conference. Remote as in I was not in the same city as the event, and running it out of my home. I’ve done this several times and keep trying And this involves setting up three separate computers, one to monitor each room. A volunteer physically present would join the Zoom meeting from the room. During the height of the pandemic, I had done similarly when the events were all remote.

This can be something of a challenge. My desk is set up for my work and non-work activities. I have a dual set of monitors hooked into a KVM switch. A KVM switch allows you to share keyboard, video, and mouse between multiple computers. Since most of the time I only need those two computers, it does not have the ability for three. My work computer is a laptop with a dock, and my home computer is a regular PC. My work computer cannot be used for non-work purposes, but I have some old laptops I’ve docked in its place that have enough power to run Zoom.

Nearby in the room is yet a fourth monitor…my television. I have an auxiliary HDMI cable running from the TV over to the computers which would allow me to connect it to display things on the TV as an extra monitor. I currently have it unhooked.

Finally, I added a small portable USB powered monitor, which sits above the other two monitors, and is hooked into a third computer. This I had previously used as a Zoom computer, to pipe a second person’s audio in. But I stopped being the sound engineer for dual host audio podcasts. I’d invested in the cheapest Atem Mini, which is a video switcher, to explore the possibility of upgrading to video, but never ended up moving in that direction. So, I have enough equipment, with some tweaking to set up a little recording studio.

I also am a remote participant, so I want to be able to monitor 3 rooms, while actively participating in one, but I don’t want to run around disconnecting cameras and reconnecting them. My camera is an HDMI camera, hooked into an original Atem Mini. So, I realized after trying to deal with this, I could split the HDMI output from the Atem MIni into multiple HDMI cables, running into multiple USB capture devices.

I use a separate XLR microphones, which I could do the same with…feed the audio into the Atem Mini and carry it along with the video to the secondary systems.

The confusing part here is the sheer number of combinations for use. For convenience, I’m going to refer to my primary computer as #1, the Zoom computer as #2, and the theoretical old laptop docked in place of my work computer as #3. Some of these are not scenarios I’ve ever needed, but have considered for future.

  • I am a solo participant in a single Zoom room, and I want to be able to use #2 to control the Atem Mini, and have it display on either the little screen above my desk or the television. I want the camera and microphone to feed into #2, but split off to feed the other computers for other use cases. Here, there are issues because I may want to screen share from #1, my primary computer, where I have things to share. The screen share issue is why I haven’t tried this configuration.
  • I am a solo participant, and therefore, will only use #1 for my meeting, where I can screen share. The Atem Mini will be connected to #1, however, it will split off to feed the audio/video into #2 and #3 as needed.
  • I am trying to run 3 separate Zoom rooms, and therefore need all three computers running separate Zoom clients so they can record sessions, but I need to feed my audio/video to each one. I also need to monitor audio levels in each room somehow and see if there is a problem.
  • I want to record a video podcast, where #2 is feeding in a remote host, #1 is recording and hooked to the Atem Mini to allow in ‘studio’ participants to be mixed with the remote ones. In this scenario, I also need to be able to share from #3 as a video feed, to mix into the final recording.

Trying to figure out a wiring diagram to cover all these use cases so I don’t keep patching and repatching cabling. I’m starting by laying out the problem, and then, over time, hoping to document how I explored each option and implemented it.

 

 

Published on November 19, 2024
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The Bambu Labs A1 Mini Is Affordable And Ready To Rock Out Of The Box

I have gotten back into the world of 3D printing. A few years ago, I bought my first 3D printer, the much beloved(though not by me), Ender 3 V2. It was released in May of 2020, and described to me as a tinkerer’s printer. Every part on it could be upgraded. And as soon as you bought it, there were scores of places people online would tell you that you needed the metal extruder, the metal bed leveling nuts, an upgraded bowden tube, an all metal hot end, automatic bed leveling sensor…etc etc etc.

I thought I liked tinkering, and I do, but I never got to do the thing I bought the printer to do…actually print. Reading Amazon reviews now, I see things like, “Spend money, buy a better one.” or “Waste of money” Makes you wonder why so many people loved it.

So, while I am making one last attempt to fix the Ender 3 V2 as a backup(depressingly ordering $30 worth of parts the day before Microcenter announced clearing out the Ender 3 V2s they have for $50 a pop…and a later model with all the enhancements for $70), I have moved on to the Bambu Labs series. This summer I acquired a Bambu A1 Mini. The A1 Mini has a print area of 180mm square, and offers multi-color filament printing with the optional AMS add-on. There is also its slightly bigger brother, the A1, with its larger 256mm square print area.

Some of the advancements are because it has been 4 years of advancements. I was printing my first print less than 20 minutes after I opened the box. And my second…and third. And even without doing my own design, there are thousands of things I would find useful to print in future. I haven’t had to upgrade anything, I haven’t yet had to replace anything…it just works

This is what I wanted over 4 years ago. I wanted to just make stuff. And now I can.

Published on September 27, 2024
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Splitting Hairs: Split Spacebar, Split Backspace, and Split Shift- Some Ideas For Enhancing Your Keyboard

Hand built split backspace and split shift keyboard

Two underappreciated modifications of the standard keyboard layout are the split backspace and the split spacebar. I previously discussed disused or less used keys on the keyboard and wondered why we still need them. Now I’m starting to consider doing something about it.

The split backspace takes the 2u(size of two single keys), and replaces it with two single keys…giving you an extra. This creates one of two choices for those using an ANSI keyboard(as the ISO has the giant Enter key). You can have a 1U(single key) backspace and an extra keyNow…having that key somewhere is important…but do you use it enough to give it such a big key?

You can take a lesson from the Happy Hacker Keyboard layout and you can move the backspace down one row to where the \ | key is, and move the \ | up to a single key on the top row. On that layout, by default, the key is a delete key, although some people switch to backspace. Backspace removes characters to the left of the cursor, delete to the right.

The right size backspace and delete keys aren’t available on all keycap sets…but are certainly options if you look.

The second popular split option is the split spacebar. Spacebars are traditionally 6.25U, though you can get 7U on some keyboards. That is a lot of potentially wasted real estate. As I type this on a traditional spacebar, I’m watching my tendency to use both my left and right thumbs to hit the spacebar…that is one reason why they are so long. So…what about the split? There are a few configuration options you can get if you hunt around. The most common is just a straight split that replaces the spacebar with two half size ones. The advantage of this involves layers…the ability to use left and right spacebar in different key combinations. The second, is either having a smaller spacebar(3U for example), to get more keys on right and left. Or…having a split spacebar with a single key in the middle. Sounds interesting to try in the future. More keys, even if duplicated, leaves more flexibility in future. Also, the large stabilizer to support a full size spacebar is often the loudest key on your keyboard…so there may be sound advantages.

Split shift is a common feature on 65% and smaller keyboards. This involves shrinking the right shift key to add a 1U key to its right. This is usually used as an up arrow or a layer(FN) key depending on the configuration. ISO keys split the left shift to put an extra key to its right, which is usually the  \ | key. There are advantages of even if you don’t use it the way the ISO layout does.

Choice is important. These less popular options aren’t always less popular because they aren’t good ideas…but because the software customization to take advantage of them didn’t override the traditional keyboard layout. With QMK/VIA and other ways of configuring keyboard behavior, having these options means more choice when you customize.

If you can only find the keycaps, that is…

 

 

Published on September 2, 2024
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My Evolving Thoughts on Keyboard Layouts- July 2024 State Of The Keys

Back in March, I expressed my thoughts about different keyboard profiles in general when I was talking about traveling with mechanical keyboards. But I’ve tried a bunch of different keyboards and I’ve developed new thoughts.

To recap, I covered the major sizes…

  • Full-size
  • Tenkeyless(TKL) – A tenkeyless is the same size as a full-size keyboard, but omits the number pad.
  • 75%  – condenses the function keys
  • 65% – usually retains the arrow keys while condensing the other function keys.
  • 60% – removes the function and navigation keys
  • 40% – the smallest keyboard

But even within those, there are not necessarily consistencies. I have several 75% keyboards I’ve tried, and some have 3 function buttons, 5 function buttons 7 function buttons…So, there is no clear definition matching above.

So, let’s talk about the why for a moment? Maybe it is because you want to carry it around, but maybe you want a keyboard for your desk that is smaller. Maybe you have a laptop and you want to use a keyboard with that, as there are few options in laptop keyboards by comparison.

What tradeoffs will you make to get that smaller size? Do you need a numpad? If so…there is an alternative to the traditional full size..the 1800 layout(96%), which cuts function keys but retains the number pad? Are you left handed? Maybe you still want the number pad, but you want a southpaw keyboard, which moves it to the left side? Or get that separate number pad I mentioned.

A good example of the hotswappable 1800 keyboard with VIA programmable support is the Epomaker EK98. There was also the Q5, that Woot recently had on sale.

Let’s get below the TKL, because the form factor there is what you want if you want the full size keyboard but don’t need the number pad. But that still leaves the 6 function keys and the arrows taking up space. What if you dumped those? Do you actually use the arrow and navigation keys(Home/End,Page Down/Page Up)? I talked previously about what keys on a keyboard you might be able to dump.

Once you get down to this size, you also start to have to think about keyboard layers…what combination of keys you want to trigger the keys you jettisoned if you need them. And if you want to invest in a QMK/VIA programmable keyboard to do that over having to install drivers on a computer.

Below TKL, the actual layout seems to be fluid. It may say 75%, or 65%…but…they all look very different. At the 75% level, if you want budget, look at the Hexgear I2 75% hotswappable keyboard. This isn’t programmable, but it has an aluminum frame and PBT keycaps for only $20. It also has all six navigation keys as well as arrow keys. By comparison, what is Keychron doing with their VIA/QMK V2 75%? A home but no end key? Are there studies showing people want to jump to the top over the bottom? Of course, being VIA/QMK…you can change out the function keys to be whatever you want. Epomaker has a sale on their wireless TH80 at $45 right now. You get a knob…then Delete, Home, and Page Up/Page Down.

65% cuts out the function keys..which is fine, I don’t use those much anyway(although I could program them to something else. As mentioned, 65% for me is the best combination for travel. Not too small, not too big. Royal Kludge has a sale on the RK68 hot swap 65% right now, but it isn’t my favorite budget 65% right now. If you can give up programmability, the Shurikey Gear 65 is a great budget hotswap 65%. I also still have my K6 with its aluminum frame. Aluminum is great for home, but not necessarily for traveling due its weight. The Shurikey at $20-25 seems to be a good keyboard you can forget somewhere…and after I left a portable monitor at a hotel in Europe and had to figure out how to get it back…

At 60%, the Skyloong GK61 is my budget pick…QMK/VIA programmable, offers PBT keycaps, wireless capability…

I’ve even warmed to the 40% layout, compiling QMK firmware for an Inland MK47, the cheapest 40% I could find and swapping keycaps and switches…I took this one on a trip and you can get used to it pretty quickly. I do miss number keys at times though.

I continue to limit my searches to Amazon of late…but there are some good deals to be had. There are always better keyboards…do you want aluminum? Gasket mount? Filled with foam? There are all sorts of options to improve the experience of typing, but with a little customization, many budget keyboards can be perfect for needs. You can even, like me, have different keyboards for different use cases…travel, the office, home, to leave at a relative’s house…

Published on July 23, 2024
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