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Gadget Wisdom

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Retro Gaming and the Original Nintendo

Earlier this summer, I dug my old Nintendo Entertainment System out of a box. I have been trying to reduce the boxes of stuff I retain that I don’t use. I have built some emulators to allow me to relieve some of the games of my youth…but nothing is like the authentic original experience. So I plugged the Nintendo in…and relived the frequent issue of my childhood…the flashing red light. When I was a kid, the solution to that was to blow on the cartridge. However, it is the 21st century now, and I have the internet to research an issue.

After going down some rabbit holes, I discovered that you could add an HDMI output with a board that someone developed…and is no longer sold…and a variety of other interesting items. But I was able to secure a new power adapter, a replacement cartridge connector, and an RCA to HDMI adapter.

So, if you have an old game system in your closet, why not take it out, clean it up, maybe refinish it a bit, and restore it to a place of use?

If you don’t want to do that…there’s always the other way. I discovered I had just missed a large event in my hometown of New York. The Long Island Retro Gaming Expo at the Cradle of Aviation museum. There is a community of enthusiastic people in every fandom if you just look.

In the meantime…can someone help me fix my Super Nintendo?

 

Published on November 19, 2024
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Building A Video Studio

Recently, I agreed to run remote participation for a three track one day conference. Remote as in I was not in the same city as the event, and running it out of my home. I’ve done this several times and keep trying And this involves setting up three separate computers, one to monitor each room. A volunteer physically present would join the Zoom meeting from the room. During the height of the pandemic, I had done similarly when the events were all remote.

This can be something of a challenge. My desk is set up for my work and non-work activities. I have a dual set of monitors hooked into a KVM switch. A KVM switch allows you to share keyboard, video, and mouse between multiple computers. Since most of the time I only need those two computers, it does not have the ability for three. My work computer is a laptop with a dock, and my home computer is a regular PC. My work computer cannot be used for non-work purposes, but I have some old laptops I’ve docked in its place that have enough power to run Zoom.

Nearby in the room is yet a fourth monitor…my television. I have an auxiliary HDMI cable running from the TV over to the computers which would allow me to connect it to display things on the TV as an extra monitor. I currently have it unhooked.

Finally, I added a small portable USB powered monitor, which sits above the other two monitors, and is hooked into a third computer. This I had previously used as a Zoom computer, to pipe a second person’s audio in. But I stopped being the sound engineer for dual host audio podcasts. I’d invested in the cheapest Atem Mini, which is a video switcher, to explore the possibility of upgrading to video, but never ended up moving in that direction. So, I have enough equipment, with some tweaking to set up a little recording studio.

I also am a remote participant, so I want to be able to monitor 3 rooms, while actively participating in one, but I don’t want to run around disconnecting cameras and reconnecting them. My camera is an HDMI camera, hooked into an original Atem Mini. So, I realized after trying to deal with this, I could split the HDMI output from the Atem MIni into multiple HDMI cables, running into multiple USB capture devices.

I use a separate XLR microphones, which I could do the same with…feed the audio into the Atem Mini and carry it along with the video to the secondary systems.

The confusing part here is the sheer number of combinations for use. For convenience, I’m going to refer to my primary computer as #1, the Zoom computer as #2, and the theoretical old laptop docked in place of my work computer as #3. Some of these are not scenarios I’ve ever needed, but have considered for future.

  • I am a solo participant in a single Zoom room, and I want to be able to use #2 to control the Atem Mini, and have it display on either the little screen above my desk or the television. I want the camera and microphone to feed into #2, but split off to feed the other computers for other use cases. Here, there are issues because I may want to screen share from #1, my primary computer, where I have things to share. The screen share issue is why I haven’t tried this configuration.
  • I am a solo participant, and therefore, will only use #1 for my meeting, where I can screen share. The Atem Mini will be connected to #1, however, it will split off to feed the audio/video into #2 and #3 as needed.
  • I am trying to run 3 separate Zoom rooms, and therefore need all three computers running separate Zoom clients so they can record sessions, but I need to feed my audio/video to each one. I also need to monitor audio levels in each room somehow and see if there is a problem.
  • I want to record a video podcast, where #2 is feeding in a remote host, #1 is recording and hooked to the Atem Mini to allow in ‘studio’ participants to be mixed with the remote ones. In this scenario, I also need to be able to share from #3 as a video feed, to mix into the final recording.

Trying to figure out a wiring diagram to cover all these use cases so I don’t keep patching and repatching cabling. I’m starting by laying out the problem, and then, over time, hoping to document how I explored each option and implemented it.

 

 

Published on November 19, 2024
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The Bambu Labs A1 Mini Is Affordable And Ready To Rock Out Of The Box

I have gotten back into the world of 3D printing. A few years ago, I bought my first 3D printer, the much beloved(though not by me), Ender 3 V2. It was released in May of 2020, and described to me as a tinkerer’s printer. Every part on it could be upgraded. And as soon as you bought it, there were scores of places people online would tell you that you needed the metal extruder, the metal bed leveling nuts, an upgraded bowden tube, an all metal hot end, automatic bed leveling sensor…etc etc etc.

I thought I liked tinkering, and I do, but I never got to do the thing I bought the printer to do…actually print. Reading Amazon reviews now, I see things like, “Spend money, buy a better one.” or “Waste of money” Makes you wonder why so many people loved it.

So, while I am making one last attempt to fix the Ender 3 V2 as a backup(depressingly ordering $30 worth of parts the day before Microcenter announced clearing out the Ender 3 V2s they have for $50 a pop…and a later model with all the enhancements for $70), I have moved on to the Bambu Labs series. This summer I acquired a Bambu A1 Mini. The A1 Mini has a print area of 180mm square, and offers multi-color filament printing with the optional AMS add-on. There is also its slightly bigger brother, the A1, with its larger 256mm square print area.

Some of the advancements are because it has been 4 years of advancements. I was printing my first print less than 20 minutes after I opened the box. And my second…and third. And even without doing my own design, there are thousands of things I would find useful to print in future. I haven’t had to upgrade anything, I haven’t yet had to replace anything…it just works

This is what I wanted over 4 years ago. I wanted to just make stuff. And now I can.

Published on September 27, 2024
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Splitting Hairs: Split Spacebar, Split Backspace, and Split Shift- Some Ideas For Enhancing Your Keyboard

Hand built split backspace and split shift keyboard

Two underappreciated modifications of the standard keyboard layout are the split backspace and the split spacebar. I previously discussed disused or less used keys on the keyboard and wondered why we still need them. Now I’m starting to consider doing something about it.

The split backspace takes the 2u(size of two single keys), and replaces it with two single keys…giving you an extra. This creates one of two choices for those using an ANSI keyboard(as the ISO has the giant Enter key). You can have a 1U(single key) backspace and an extra keyNow…having that key somewhere is important…but do you use it enough to give it such a big key?

You can take a lesson from the Happy Hacker Keyboard layout and you can move the backspace down one row to where the \ | key is, and move the \ | up to a single key on the top row. On that layout, by default, the key is a delete key, although some people switch to backspace. Backspace removes characters to the left of the cursor, delete to the right.

The right size backspace and delete keys aren’t available on all keycap sets…but are certainly options if you look.

The second popular split option is the split spacebar. Spacebars are traditionally 6.25U, though you can get 7U on some keyboards. That is a lot of potentially wasted real estate. As I type this on a traditional spacebar, I’m watching my tendency to use both my left and right thumbs to hit the spacebar…that is one reason why they are so long. So…what about the split? There are a few configuration options you can get if you hunt around. The most common is just a straight split that replaces the spacebar with two half size ones. The advantage of this involves layers…the ability to use left and right spacebar in different key combinations. The second, is either having a smaller spacebar(3U for example), to get more keys on right and left. Or…having a split spacebar with a single key in the middle. Sounds interesting to try in the future. More keys, even if duplicated, leaves more flexibility in future. Also, the large stabilizer to support a full size spacebar is often the loudest key on your keyboard…so there may be sound advantages.

Split shift is a common feature on 65% and smaller keyboards. This involves shrinking the right shift key to add a 1U key to its right. This is usually used as an up arrow or a layer(FN) key depending on the configuration. ISO keys split the left shift to put an extra key to its right, which is usually the  \ | key. There are advantages of even if you don’t use it the way the ISO layout does.

Choice is important. These less popular options aren’t always less popular because they aren’t good ideas…but because the software customization to take advantage of them didn’t override the traditional keyboard layout. With QMK/VIA and other ways of configuring keyboard behavior, having these options means more choice when you customize.

If you can only find the keycaps, that is…

 

 

Published on September 2, 2024
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My Evolving Thoughts on Keyboard Layouts- July 2024 State Of The Keys

Back in March, I expressed my thoughts about different keyboard profiles in general when I was talking about traveling with mechanical keyboards. But I’ve tried a bunch of different keyboards and I’ve developed new thoughts.

To recap, I covered the major sizes…

  • Full-size
  • Tenkeyless(TKL) – A tenkeyless is the same size as a full-size keyboard, but omits the number pad.
  • 75%  – condenses the function keys
  • 65% – usually retains the arrow keys while condensing the other function keys.
  • 60% – removes the function and navigation keys
  • 40% – the smallest keyboard

But even within those, there are not necessarily consistencies. I have several 75% keyboards I’ve tried, and some have 3 function buttons, 5 function buttons 7 function buttons…So, there is no clear definition matching above.

So, let’s talk about the why for a moment? Maybe it is because you want to carry it around, but maybe you want a keyboard for your desk that is smaller. Maybe you have a laptop and you want to use a keyboard with that, as there are few options in laptop keyboards by comparison.

What tradeoffs will you make to get that smaller size? Do you need a numpad? If so…there is an alternative to the traditional full size..the 1800 layout(96%), which cuts function keys but retains the number pad? Are you left handed? Maybe you still want the number pad, but you want a southpaw keyboard, which moves it to the left side? Or get that separate number pad I mentioned.

A good example of the hotswappable 1800 keyboard with VIA programmable support is the Epomaker EK98. There was also the Q5, that Woot recently had on sale.

Let’s get below the TKL, because the form factor there is what you want if you want the full size keyboard but don’t need the number pad. But that still leaves the 6 function keys and the arrows taking up space. What if you dumped those? Do you actually use the arrow and navigation keys(Home/End,Page Down/Page Up)? I talked previously about what keys on a keyboard you might be able to dump.

Once you get down to this size, you also start to have to think about keyboard layers…what combination of keys you want to trigger the keys you jettisoned if you need them. And if you want to invest in a QMK/VIA programmable keyboard to do that over having to install drivers on a computer.

Below TKL, the actual layout seems to be fluid. It may say 75%, or 65%…but…they all look very different. At the 75% level, if you want budget, look at the Hexgear I2 75% hotswappable keyboard. This isn’t programmable, but it has an aluminum frame and PBT keycaps for only $20. It also has all six navigation keys as well as arrow keys. By comparison, what is Keychron doing with their VIA/QMK V2 75%? A home but no end key? Are there studies showing people want to jump to the top over the bottom? Of course, being VIA/QMK…you can change out the function keys to be whatever you want. Epomaker has a sale on their wireless TH80 at $45 right now. You get a knob…then Delete, Home, and Page Up/Page Down.

65% cuts out the function keys..which is fine, I don’t use those much anyway(although I could program them to something else. As mentioned, 65% for me is the best combination for travel. Not too small, not too big. Royal Kludge has a sale on the RK68 hot swap 65% right now, but it isn’t my favorite budget 65% right now. If you can give up programmability, the Shurikey Gear 65 is a great budget hotswap 65%. I also still have my K6 with its aluminum frame. Aluminum is great for home, but not necessarily for traveling due its weight. The Shurikey at $20-25 seems to be a good keyboard you can forget somewhere…and after I left a portable monitor at a hotel in Europe and had to figure out how to get it back…

At 60%, the Skyloong GK61 is my budget pick…QMK/VIA programmable, offers PBT keycaps, wireless capability…

I’ve even warmed to the 40% layout, compiling QMK firmware for an Inland MK47, the cheapest 40% I could find and swapping keycaps and switches…I took this one on a trip and you can get used to it pretty quickly. I do miss number keys at times though.

I continue to limit my searches to Amazon of late…but there are some good deals to be had. There are always better keyboards…do you want aluminum? Gasket mount? Filled with foam? There are all sorts of options to improve the experience of typing, but with a little customization, many budget keyboards can be perfect for needs. You can even, like me, have different keyboards for different use cases…travel, the office, home, to leave at a relative’s house…

Published on July 23, 2024
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Old Storage, New To You: It’s Time To Consider Buying Refurbished Hard Drives

For the entirety of my time buying drives, going back many years, I’ve bought only new hard drives. For my servers, I’ve tried to buy NAS grade drives. NAS drives, compared to a desktop drive, are rated for more continuous operation and load.

But, my redundant backup strategy can be expensive, so while my NAS is using NAS drives I bought new, I decided for one of my two redundant backup locations, I’d try a pair of refurbished drives. I went with an outlet called Goharddrive. They sell through Amazon, eBay, Newegg, etc. Another called Serverpartdeals seems to have good reviews overall, through multiple sources.

From what my research seems to indicate, these two at least have good reputations for offering items that are not likely to fail quickly, and if they do, they quickly honor their five year warranty. Seagate and Western Digital have cut back the warranty period on some drives to 3 years, but still offer some drives at the 5 year mark. So, these refurbished drives, even if they fail, will be replaced during that period. They are designed for high data use as they were likely pulled out of data centers and other enterprise uses.

There are definitely advantages to these refurbished drives even for a primary function. But the lesson is, you shouldn’t use a refurbished drive without redundancy. But the same applies to new drives. New drives may last less time than a refurbished one, or more. So, the lesson in the end is to make sure that you never rely on a single drive regardless.

Here’s a link to a 10TB hard drive sold by Goharddrive via Amazon. A similar new NAS drive is running over double that. Assuming you get 3-5 years out of it, which is guaranteed, you may be taking a risk, but its an acceptable one. So, it’s perfect for sending my files to from my primary NAS, and will sit at a family member’s home as a backup server. Definitely cheaper than the cloud.

 

Published on July 21, 2024
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Amazon Prime Deal Alert: Keychron C3 Pro Keyboard QMK/Via Hotswap

I previously reviewed the C3 Pro keyboard. I’d gotten the C3 regular edition for $29.99 and was happy with that. However, today, the hotswap version is showing at $29.99 for Prime members(Link here). The keyboard comes in two switch varieties, red and brown. It offers a red backlight in the non-hotswap version and full RGB in the hotswap edition. The keycaps are replaceable, but the switches are not.

To remind everyone, the C3 is a TKL….a full keyboard less the number pad. It supports QMK/Via, which allows you to reprogram the keyboard and save the configuration to the device itself, over having it in software, meaning it doesn’t carry between computers.

The Keychron C3 Pro continues to be a great budget deal, and the fact they released a hotswap version, and now are selling at such a low rate…I hope they create this quality level of board at this price point in different form factors.

 

Published on July 15, 2024
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Woot Offers Great Sale on Last Generation Q Series Keychron Keyboards

Although not without their caveats, Keychron has a reputation as a reliable and quality brand of Keyboards. Their top of the line Q series, as of the original date of this post, is on sale over at Woot through July 12, while supplies last(link) as well as some from the K series.

These are the previous generation. They are slowly being replaced by the Q Max series, which adds wireless vs the Q. For the K, they are moving to K Pro(QMK/VIA support), and now the K Max as well.

So, these are popular, if last year’s models being sold.

These are great buys, especially for a Q series, which is an all aluminum construction with plenty of insulating foam…it can make anything sound great.

Published on July 8, 2024
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Typing Off Key: Do Keyboards Really Need These Legacy Keys and Can You Reuse Them?

With my recent interest in keyboards and customization of keys, I keep thinking of all the keys on the keyboard I don’t use. The latest keyboard I acquired has an F13 button, and it made me think…what is that doing there? So, I thought I should cover a few keys I question whether or not I really need, and might be able to repurpose.

  • Caps Lock – Chromebooks already got rid of the Caps Lock key. On my 40% keyboard, I set Caps Lock using a Tap-Hold function on the Shift key. When you tap the shift key, it triggers Caps Lock, otherwise, holding it is a shift. Double-tap is a common caps lock command on Smartphone keyboards. Also, the key is 1.75u…so even if you keep it, it takes up more space than a traditional key. On a Colemak layout, the Caps Lock position serves as a second backspace key to allow it to be reached by both hands.
  • Scroll Lock – This used to be used to change the behavior of the arrow keys, but it is not usually used for that outside of some programs any longer, making it less useful. On one keyboard I have, this was replaced by a microphone mute key.
  • Pause/Break – We’re back to….this doesn’t seem to do much on modern computers. On one keyboard I have, this was replaced by a control key for the lighting.
  • Num Lock – Num lock locks the keypad to numbers. Without it, the keypad can act as arrows, as well as having functions for home, end, insert, delete, page up and page down. Things pretty much every keyboard with a built in number pad already has.
  • Menu Key – Also known as the Application key, it has been used to launch a context menu with the keyboard, as opposed to a right mouse click. Microsoft recently decided to start replacing this with a Copilot or Search button.
  • Function Keys – Most keyboards has F1-F12. Macs remap these to media keys, which are often a secondary function on Windows systems. But computers actually support up to 24 function keys…thus my weird F13. These can be mapped in software to trigger operating system functions and are often used by default by software.. But, you can also just lock them to the media functions if you want to.

This doesn’t factor in the ANSI layout popular in the US with the alternate ISO layout popular in Europe. On the ISO keyboard, the Enter key is a larger L shaped key, the left shift is smaller to make space for another key, the right Alt is often replaced by a key to support additional languages, and the extra long backslash key is gone.

On many keyboard formats, some of these keys are omitted and generated using combinations of other keys. So, is this just a pointless exercise? I don’t think so. So many new keyboards still have all these keys, and they are sitting there, and you might as well use them for something, if not their original intention.

Published on July 7, 2024
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A New 4 Bay Network Attached Storage(NAS) Option: The Aoostar Mini PCs

In a previous post, I had mentioned how tempting the Aoostar Mini PC was if I’d needed a 2 bay NAS. I’d wanted a 4 bay NAS. Of course, the 2 bay would be perfect for a remote backup receiving location, over my primary location, where I would want more redundancy. I’ve already ended up with 2 4 bay NAS options, but I’d looked at Aoostar, and they’d promised a 4 bay version at the time. But now, apparently they have it.

It hasn’t made its way to Amazon, where I often link because I don’t like having to wait for things to be drop shipped from the factory, but it is on the manufacturer’s website. If this had been available a few months ago, this would have probably been my purchase. It has the N100 processor I like as a budget low power processor, a good SATA chipset, decent looking ventilation…supports an NVME slot for the drive, 2.5 gigabit LAN…

It is just a lesson, there is always something new around the corner. You can either wait, or get the best available and not sweat the small stuff.

 

Published on July 5, 2024
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