Category: Gadgets

Back in March, I expressed my thoughts about different keyboard profiles in general when I was talking about traveling with mechanical keyboards. But I’ve tried a bunch of different keyboards and I’ve developed new thoughts.

To recap, I covered the major sizes…

• Full-size
• Tenkeyless(TKL) – A tenkeyless is the same size as a full-size keyboard, but omits the number pad.
• 75%  – condenses the function keys
• 65% – usually retains the arrow keys while condensing the other function keys.
• 60% – removes the function and navigation keys
• 40% – the smallest keyboard

But even within those, there are not necessarily consistencies. I have several 75% keyboards I’ve tried, and some have 3 function buttons, 5 function buttons 7 function buttons…So, there is no clear definition matching above.

So, let’s talk about the why for a moment? Maybe it is because you want to carry it around, but maybe you want a keyboard for your desk that is smaller. Maybe you have a laptop and you want to use a keyboard with that, as there are few options in laptop keyboards by comparison.

What tradeoffs will you make to get that smaller size? Do you need a numpad? If so…there is an alternative to the traditional full size..the 1800 layout(96%), which cuts function keys but retains the number pad? Are you left handed? Maybe you still want the number pad, but you want a southpaw keyboard, which moves it to the left side? Or get that separate number pad I mentioned.

A good example of the hotswappable 1800 keyboard with VIA programmable support is the Epomaker EK98. There was also the Q5, that Woot recently had on sale.

Let’s get below the TKL, because the form factor there is what you want if you want the full size keyboard but don’t need the number pad. But that still leaves the 6 function keys and the arrows taking up space. What if you dumped those? Do you actually use the arrow and navigation keys(Home/End,Page Down/Page Up)? I talked previously about what keys on a keyboard you might be able to dump.

Once you get down to this size, you also start to have to think about keyboard layers…what combination of keys you want to trigger the keys you jettisoned if you need them. And if you want to invest in a QMK/VIA programmable keyboard to do that over having to install drivers on a computer.

Below TKL, the actual layout seems to be fluid. It may say 75%, or 65%…but…they all look very different. At the 75% level, if you want budget, look at the Hexgear I2 75% hotswappable keyboard. This isn’t programmable, but it has an aluminum frame and PBT keycaps for only $20. It also has all six navigation keys as well as arrow keys. By comparison, what is Keychron doing with their VIA/QMK V2 75%? A home but no end key? Are there studies showing people want to jump to the top over the bottom? Of course, being VIA/QMK…you can change out the function keys to be whatever you want. Epomaker has a sale on their wireless TH80 at $45 right now. You get a knob…then Delete, Home, and Page Up/Page Down.

65% cuts out the function keys..which is fine, I don’t use those much anyway(although I could program them to something else. As mentioned, 65% for me is the best combination for travel. Not too small, not too big. Royal Kludge has a sale on the RK68 hot swap 65% right now, but it isn’t my favorite budget 65% right now. If you can give up programmability, the Shurikey Gear 65 is a great budget hotswap 65%. I also still have my K6 with its aluminum frame. Aluminum is great for home, but not necessarily for traveling due its weight. The Shurikey at $20-25 seems to be a good keyboard you can forget somewhere…and after I left a portable monitor at a hotel in Europe and had to figure out how to get it back…

At 60%, the Skyloong GK61 is my budget pick…QMK/VIA programmable, offers PBT keycaps, wireless capability…

I’ve even warmed to the 40% layout, compiling QMK firmware for an Inland MK47, the cheapest 40% I could find and swapping keycaps and switches…I took this one on a trip and you can get used to it pretty quickly. I do miss number keys at times though.

I continue to limit my searches to Amazon of late…but there are some good deals to be had. There are always better keyboards…do you want aluminum? Gasket mount? Filled with foam? There are all sorts of options to improve the experience of typing, but with a little customization, many budget keyboards can be perfect for needs. You can even, like me, have different keyboards for different use cases…travel, the office, home, to leave at a relative’s house…

In a previous post, I briefly mentioned QMK and VIA.

QMK is compiled firmware for supported keyboards. This allows you to load firmware with custom functionality and maps onto a keyboard. This allows you to customize nearly every aspect of the keyboard’s behavior. So, what is VIA? VIA is a feature in QMK that lets you change your keymap on your keyboard without needing to reflash firmware. Some keyboards, Epomaker ones come to mind, have implemented VIA support without QMK…or at least possibly violating the open source license of QMK. I could live with that, I’m not an open source purist, but their implementation is also frequently incomplete and buggy.

There is also a fork of Via called Vial, which requires porting firmware to include support for additional QMK firmware features in software.

The advantage of all of these options is you can reprogram and customize the behavior of your keyboard and save it to the keyboard…making it independent of any computer. Many keyboards provide driver software that can do ‘some’ of the same things, but they are also only for Windows. I’m a Linux user, so I’m often out of luck there. Linux does have some key remapping options, but my current recommendation is a very low level option called keyd. It remaps keys at that level, and supports a lot of the features that you usually need QMK for. Keyd supports multiple keyboards with different layouts, modifying based on the USB vendor ID of the keyboard, and always you to remap any key combination and even add layers.

So, let’s dig into some of the features. Layers are built into most keyboards using the FN key…when you press it, this allows for different keys. Layers are essentially overlapping keyboard maps, which can be triggered. The Mac/Windows toggle on your keyboard, if you have one, toggles between two keyboard maps. The FN key activates a new layer when it is held. I have coded something in QMK to actually change the backlight color of a keyboard to indicate what layer was activated.

QMK/VIA allows the following sorts of behaviors to be triggered by keypress

• Change the default layer
• Activate layer when key is held
• Activates layer when held, keypress when tapped
• Activates layer until next key is pressed
• Toggle the layer on/off
• Tap the key 5 times to lock the layer in place.

Increasingly, discerning keyboard users are demanding this feature on keyboards. I wrote about the budget C3 Pro from Keychron, which is a full QMK/VIA supported TKL. The other budget option I found was the Skyloong GK61 60% hotswappable QMK/VIA keyboard. Budget as in, under $50. The 50-100 market is getting options as well. This shouldn’t be a luxury feature, and increasingly it isn’t.

My layer needs are very simple. I have a 75% keyboard which has Delete, Page Up, and Page Down on the right side…which means no Home, End, Insert. The 75% profile is not consistent about what keys will be offered in the format factor. With a QMK/VIA keyboard, I could make those keys whichever ones I wanted, change the keycaps…and it would behave that way forever. This keyboard though, doesn’t have that…so I’m using the keyd daemon…which of course means if I move to another computer, it no longer works.

The icing on the cake for these options are macros. The ability to trigger sequences of entries. And again, with QMK/VIA can be stored in the keyboard itself.

So, why not check this out? And here’s hoping more manufacturers include the option.

In a previous post, I was excited about the arrival of the ODroid H4+. Then I got a bit nervous because of broken SATA connector on the board. For one, the longevity of the product, having never bought anything like this in the ODroid line, and that Ameridroid would make the return difficult. As mentioned, I had no evidence of that, but dealing with returns is stressful at times, and I think I may have imagined the worst based on some of my less pleasant dealings with other companies.

A few conclusions about the ODroid H4+…The Type 4 NAS case and the positioning of the SATA ports puts too much stress on the SATA cables. You need to buy the ODroid cables because I can’t find anyone else who sells the exact same power cables, as power for the drives comes off the board. I opted to switch to this thinner set of bundled cables. There is a right angle version, but I’m not sure, due the positioning of the ports, if you could place this without straining the ports, which after what happened, I’m a bit worried up. But the thinner cabling does seem to strain less.

Thinking about this for the future, I also had gotten a Jonsbo N2 and put a mini ITX board in it. That feels a lot more robust than the ODroid’s metal sheet case, but it also takes up a lot more room.

As I write this, I’m running tests on some drives I bought to place in it, and then I will work on deployment. You can see below how tiny this thing is, but the fact that the hard drives are providing the structural support makes me wonder about its longevity. I would have felt better it there had been some corner brackets. Also, there are no dust shields around the ports, and the bottom is open. So it could accumulate a lot of dust.

The ODroid line is popular, and if you look, all of these cases for the H4 line and its predecessor, the H3 line have this scratchbuilt in a garage feel to them. But, just because something has that look and feel doesn’t mean it is bad. I would recommend this as a server.

The Intel i3 N Series launched in 2023, consisting of the 4 core N-100 and N-200, as well as the 8 core N-300, and N-305.

For years, Intel’s low power CPUs were items I used because I needed something low power and was willing to suffer the slow speeds. But technology has caught up. The series is perfectly fast for the majority of my needs, be it a server, or even a web browsing system. It isn’t a gaming powerhouse, but can handle media playback admirably, and has the power to handle transcoding for a Plex server, if you wanted it to be one, and all at low power. I’ve acquired 3 N-100 powered items to replace older systems…to power my NAS, a backup/portable desktop for various uses, and as a dedicated computer for a scanner project.

It seems, with this line, Intel has finally gotten to a place of reasonable performance and power usage. So, I wanted to show some examples of what reasonable little systems you can buy. Of course, I usually wipe Windows and switch to my preferred Linux desktop or server OS, but…to each their own.

For example, you can try something like this CWWK N-100, which has 4 2.5GBE ports, and looks perfect for a router. It does not come with drive or RAM for a little over $200.

This Beelink S12 Pro offers 16GB RAM and 500GB of RAM for $169. It does lack a USB-C port, which I do like to have, but Beelink has a good reputation for inexpensive devices.

Even smaller is this GMKtec Mini PC with 8GB of RAM/256GB SSD, at $135. It looks to be 4 inches square from the image.

Minisforum also gets good reviews, and this one, the UN300, has that USB-C port I was looking for, although not a 2.5GBE port, if that’s important to you.

So, this isn’t just about me showing off little toys I wouldn’t mind buying. It is the cornerstone of my refresh plan for old technology. It’s inexpensive and I can deploy it to replace 5-10 year old systems, and it will last another 5-10 years, if not more…which is why I’m already thinking about 2.5GBE ports… My systems are all wired with gigabit ethernet. 2.5GBE is 2.5 Gigabit Ethernet…and is becoming more mainstream. There are 5 and 10GBE, but as gigabit ethernet was once expensive, 2.5 gigabit capable equipment is rapidly more affordable and being included in hobbyist level equipment.

Many of us are travelling more than we used to, but there is no reason we can’t have a great work setup while on the road.

This post serves as a packing list, among other things, for my travel gear. These allow me to be productive from anywhere. It’s a good opportunity to go over what I keep in my bag, and over time, talk more specifically about the items I keep in there and why.

• A Walmart Onn Android 4K TV puck – Powered by micro-USB, used for streaming in hotel rooms
• 2 Ainope Right Angle USB-C to USB-C 6 foot cables, braided 60W rating – any USB-C cables might do.
• 2 Baseus 100W retractable USC-C PD 5A 3.3 foot cable –
• EMEET USB Speakerphone for Live Streaming – Got this on sale, but you can’t get it anymore. Good because it is compact, and a webcam and speakerphone in one. I’m fine in the shortterm, but will look for alternatives to suggest.
• Charger for a Pinetime Watch – More on the Pinetime in future
• An Ikea LED USB lamp . – Some hotels do not have a desk light and this takes up almost no space.
• Generic USB/battery operated LED clock – I use my phone for alarms, but I honestly can’t be bothered to fiddle for it when I’m trying to sleep in a hotel room while experiencing jetlag. This was just the smallest clock with digits I could see without my glasses. About the size of a harmonica. There are dozens of these.
• 200W GAN USB C Charger Block, 4 USB-C PD ports, 4 USB-A ports – Can power everything with plenty of ports. I have one of these on my desk as well.
• The 65% K6 Keyboard…I wrote about my Keyboard search previously.
• Graffiti Fat Wrist Rest for small keyboards – Wrist rest for the keyboard
• Dierya Kemove X Keyboard Travel Case – To protect my keyboard while traveling.
• A GL.iNet travel router, right now I have the Slate Plus which was on sale, but there is a budget version available now, the Opal. There are advantages to the Slate Plus over the Opal…but for hotel trips, you can forego them. Having a travel router has a variety of advantages.
• A portable monitor – I have a few of these of various sizes and capabilities. A 15.6, and a 12. I can mix and match depending on the computer I’m bringing…laptop, mini PC, etc, to form a variety of different configurations. More on that in future. But, this either requires HDMI cabling, sometimes mini-HDMI, sometimes full-HDMI, plus USB power, or USB-C connections.
• Folding Laptop Stand – They don’t make the one I have anymore, but there are a lot of these. This unfolds, lifting the laptop up so I can place my keyboard below it. This assumes I bring a laptop, and not a mini-PC
• Trackball – I prefer a trackball to a mouse. My two favorites are:
  • Logi M580 – this is a thumb controlled trackball that fits easily into a bag
  • Kensington Expert Wireless Trackball – Also comes in a wired. This thing looks big because of the provided wrist rest, but is not that much bigger than the Logi M580, which I’ve taken on many trips.

I’ve been working on upgrades to my desk, and tried out the Vivo 16 Inch Above/Behind VESA Monitor Livestream Device Shelf Mount.

The image is a stock image from the manufacturer, not my setup, but this replaced so many things for me. It attaches to a monitor mount in between the bracket and the monitor. Not only is it good as a shelf, but I’m able to attach accessories to it.

I’ve bought two of these, one for each of my monitors. There is a webcam attached with an adjustable ball head, an old tablet that shows an information display, and a light to better light the webcam. As the bezel of monitors becomes thinner, attaching a webcam to the monitor itself is starting to actually hide some of the screen. You can mount a webcam or even a professional camera dead center and still have plenty of room on the shelf to add more small items.

The height you can adjust it to does depend on your monitor. I had to put them at different heights on different monitors due to where the ports were in relation to the mount. You may also have issues if the back of your monitor is curved. Reading reviews on Amazon, some people solved these issues by cutting off some of the bracket to make it shorter. Others had to get longer screws than the ones provided or get standoffs, both of which are fairly common needs for VESA monitor mounts.

Other people used it to hold speakers, as a shelf for their remotes, microphones, etc.

There are competing products, but none of them at a $20 price point.

• Ulanzi makes a similar top shelf for $43 at time of publish, which includes 3 ballheads…but you can get better ball heads yourself if you need them.
• HumanCentric offers theirs for $56 at time of publish. They have 3 sizes, a small, medium and extra large, the extra large being the $56 one and roughly the same shelf space as the Vivo. It seems to offer no specific advantage, except it is slightly shorter in length(so maybe you don’t need to cut it if it covers your ports), but hardly worth the price increase for that.

In all the mounting gear I’ve purchased for my desk, the price does seem high for what is essentially a piece of metal with some holes in it. But convenience is worth something. I have a second desk I use elsewhere where I will be using this to replace a cheap boom arm that holds up my webcam.