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Gadget Wisdom

Category: Gadgets

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Retro Gaming and the Original Nintendo

Earlier this summer, I dug my old Nintendo Entertainment System out of a box. I have been trying to reduce the boxes of stuff I retain that I don’t use. I have built some emulators to allow me to relieve some of the games of my youth…but nothing is like the authentic original experience. So I plugged the Nintendo in…and relived the frequent issue of my childhood…the flashing red light. When I was a kid, the solution to that was to blow on the cartridge. However, it is the 21st century now, and I have the internet to research an issue.

After going down some rabbit holes, I discovered that you could add an HDMI output with a board that someone developed…and is no longer sold…and a variety of other interesting items. But I was able to secure a new power adapter, a replacement cartridge connector, and an RCA to HDMI adapter.

So, if you have an old game system in your closet, why not take it out, clean it up, maybe refinish it a bit, and restore it to a place of use?

If you don’t want to do that…there’s always the other way. I discovered I had just missed a large event in my hometown of New York. The Long Island Retro Gaming Expo at the Cradle of Aviation museum. There is a community of enthusiastic people in every fandom if you just look.

In the meantime…can someone help me fix my Super Nintendo?

 

Published on November 19, 2024
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Building A Video Studio

Recently, I agreed to run remote participation for a three track one day conference. Remote as in I was not in the same city as the event, and running it out of my home. I’ve done this several times and keep trying And this involves setting up three separate computers, one to monitor each room. A volunteer physically present would join the Zoom meeting from the room. During the height of the pandemic, I had done similarly when the events were all remote.

This can be something of a challenge. My desk is set up for my work and non-work activities. I have a dual set of monitors hooked into a KVM switch. A KVM switch allows you to share keyboard, video, and mouse between multiple computers. Since most of the time I only need those two computers, it does not have the ability for three. My work computer is a laptop with a dock, and my home computer is a regular PC. My work computer cannot be used for non-work purposes, but I have some old laptops I’ve docked in its place that have enough power to run Zoom.

Nearby in the room is yet a fourth monitor…my television. I have an auxiliary HDMI cable running from the TV over to the computers which would allow me to connect it to display things on the TV as an extra monitor. I currently have it unhooked.

Finally, I added a small portable USB powered monitor, which sits above the other two monitors, and is hooked into a third computer. This I had previously used as a Zoom computer, to pipe a second person’s audio in. But I stopped being the sound engineer for dual host audio podcasts. I’d invested in the cheapest Atem Mini, which is a video switcher, to explore the possibility of upgrading to video, but never ended up moving in that direction. So, I have enough equipment, with some tweaking to set up a little recording studio.

I also am a remote participant, so I want to be able to monitor 3 rooms, while actively participating in one, but I don’t want to run around disconnecting cameras and reconnecting them. My camera is an HDMI camera, hooked into an original Atem Mini. So, I realized after trying to deal with this, I could split the HDMI output from the Atem MIni into multiple HDMI cables, running into multiple USB capture devices.

I use a separate XLR microphones, which I could do the same with…feed the audio into the Atem Mini and carry it along with the video to the secondary systems.

The confusing part here is the sheer number of combinations for use. For convenience, I’m going to refer to my primary computer as #1, the Zoom computer as #2, and the theoretical old laptop docked in place of my work computer as #3. Some of these are not scenarios I’ve ever needed, but have considered for future.

  • I am a solo participant in a single Zoom room, and I want to be able to use #2 to control the Atem Mini, and have it display on either the little screen above my desk or the television. I want the camera and microphone to feed into #2, but split off to feed the other computers for other use cases. Here, there are issues because I may want to screen share from #1, my primary computer, where I have things to share. The screen share issue is why I haven’t tried this configuration.
  • I am a solo participant, and therefore, will only use #1 for my meeting, where I can screen share. The Atem Mini will be connected to #1, however, it will split off to feed the audio/video into #2 and #3 as needed.
  • I am trying to run 3 separate Zoom rooms, and therefore need all three computers running separate Zoom clients so they can record sessions, but I need to feed my audio/video to each one. I also need to monitor audio levels in each room somehow and see if there is a problem.
  • I want to record a video podcast, where #2 is feeding in a remote host, #1 is recording and hooked to the Atem Mini to allow in ‘studio’ participants to be mixed with the remote ones. In this scenario, I also need to be able to share from #3 as a video feed, to mix into the final recording.

Trying to figure out a wiring diagram to cover all these use cases so I don’t keep patching and repatching cabling. I’m starting by laying out the problem, and then, over time, hoping to document how I explored each option and implemented it.

 

 

Published on November 19, 2024
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Best Tools For Productive Work On The Road: Spring 2024 Edition

Many of us are travelling more than we used to, but there is no reason we can’t have a great work setup while on the road.

This post serves as a packing list, among other things, for my travel gear. These allow me to be productive from anywhere. It’s a good opportunity to go over what I keep in my bag, and over time, talk more specifically about the items I keep in there and why.

  • A Walmart Onn Android 4K TV puck – Powered by micro-USB, used for streaming in hotel rooms
  • 2 Ainope Right Angle USB-C to USB-C 6 foot cables, braided 60W rating – any USB-C cables might do.
  • 2 Baseus 100W retractable USC-C PD 5A 3.3 foot cable
  • EMEET USB Speakerphone for Live Streaming – Got this on sale, but you can’t get it anymore. Good because it is compact, and a webcam and speakerphone in one. I’m fine in the shortterm, but will look for alternatives to suggest.
  • Charger for a Pinetime Watch – More on the Pinetime in future
  • An Ikea LED USB lamp . – Some hotels do not have a desk light and this takes up almost no space.
  • Generic USB/battery operated LED clock – I use my phone for alarms, but I honestly can’t be bothered to fiddle for it when I’m trying to sleep in a hotel room while experiencing jetlag. This was just the smallest clock with digits I could see without my glasses. About the size of a harmonica. There are dozens of these.
  • 200W GAN USB C Charger Block, 4 USB-C PD ports, 4 USB-A ports – Can power everything with plenty of ports. I have one of these on my desk as well.
  • The 65% K6 Keyboard…I wrote about my Keyboard search previously.
  • Graffiti Fat Wrist Rest for small keyboards – Wrist rest for the keyboard
  • Dierya Kemove X Keyboard Travel Case – To protect my keyboard while traveling.
  • A GL.iNet travel router, right now I have the Slate Plus which was on sale, but there is a budget version available now, the Opal. There are advantages to the Slate Plus over the Opal…but for hotel trips, you can forego them. Having a travel router has a variety of advantages.
  • A portable monitor – I have a few of these of various sizes and capabilities. A 15.6, and a 12. I can mix and match depending on the computer I’m bringing…laptop, mini PC, etc, to form a variety of different configurations. More on that in future. But, this either requires HDMI cabling, sometimes mini-HDMI, sometimes full-HDMI, plus USB power, or USB-C connections.
  • Folding Laptop Stand – They don’t make the one I have anymore, but there are a lot of these. This unfolds, lifting the laptop up so I can place my keyboard below it. This assumes I bring a laptop, and not a mini-PC
  • Trackball – I prefer a trackball to a mouse. My two favorites are:
    • Logi M580 – this is a thumb controlled trackball that fits easily into a bag
    • Kensington Expert Wireless Trackball – Also comes in a wired. This thing looks big because of the provided wrist rest, but is not that much bigger than the Logi M580, which I’ve taken on many trips.

 

Published on April 4, 2024
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Review: Vivo Livestream Device Shelf Mount

I’ve been working on upgrades to my desk, and tried out the Vivo 16 Inch Above/Behind VESA Monitor Livestream Device Shelf Mount.

The image is a stock image from the manufacturer, not my setup, but this replaced so many things for me. It attaches to a monitor mount in between the bracket and the monitor. Not only is it good as a shelf, but I’m able to attach accessories to it.

I’ve bought two of these, one for each of my monitors. There is a webcam attached with an adjustable ball head, an old tablet that shows an information display, and a light to better light the webcam. As the bezel of monitors becomes thinner, attaching a webcam to the monitor itself is starting to actually hide some of the screen. You can mount a webcam or even a professional camera dead center and still have plenty of room on the shelf to add more small items.

The height you can adjust it to does depend on your monitor. I had to put them at different heights on different monitors due to where the ports were in relation to the mount. You may also have issues if the back of your monitor is curved. Reading reviews on Amazon, some people solved these issues by cutting off some of the bracket to make it shorter. Others had to get longer screws than the ones provided or get standoffs, both of which are fairly common needs for VESA monitor mounts.

Other people used it to hold speakers, as a shelf for their remotes, microphones, etc.

There are competing products, but none of them at a $20 price point.

  • Ulanzi makes a similar top shelf for $43 at time of publish, which includes 3 ballheads…but you can get better ball heads yourself if you need them.
  • HumanCentric offers theirs for $56 at time of publish. They have 3 sizes, a small, medium and extra large, the extra large being the $56 one and roughly the same shelf space as the Vivo. It seems to offer no specific advantage, except it is slightly shorter in length(so maybe you don’t need to cut it if it covers your ports), but hardly worth the price increase for that.

 

In all the mounting gear I’ve purchased for my desk, the price does seem high for what is essentially a piece of metal with some holes in it. But convenience is worth something. I have a second desk I use elsewhere where I will be using this to replace a cheap boom arm that holds up my webcam.

Published on April 2, 2024
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Thoughts On Using a Mini PC On the Go

Recently, I was reading an article by Brady Snyder of XDA Developers about using a Mini PC on the go. It happened to match up with something I’d been thinking about. However, Brady’s premise involved the use of a battery pack. So…turning a Mini PC into a fully portable computer, instead of my goal…a computer I could set up anywhere. I’m thinking about this a lot right now because I just spent two weeks in a hotel for work, where I’d want more than I’d take on a short trip.

Dual portable monitors are coming down in price, but so are portable USB-C/HDMI single monitors that have good quality, and fit in a bag. I calculated that a USB-C to barrel connector could power everything off a USB-C PD charger. A 60-65% keyboard, portable mouse, and even a second monitor if needed can complete something that fits in a bag.

I stopped using laptops at home ages ago…because staring down at one started to hurt my neck. I could dock my laptop, but I found I rarely used the screen and mostly had it in the dock, so why not save money on the screen and get a better processor?

Over the years, I’ve tried many combinations of mobile setups. Different small keyboards. Different portable monitors. Etc. I’ve already decided on my next experiment, and will be putting out some notes about how different configurations work out. This includes:

  • Improved 60 or 65% keyboard options
  • Different portable monitors
  • Keeping the wiring simple.
  • Converting mini-PCs to USB-C PD using adapters
  • Travel micetrackballs
  • Storage devices

Curious what others thinl.

Published on March 1, 2024
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What To Know When Considering Switching To A Smart Lock

In a previous post, I discussed digital locks. Digital locks are locks that can be opened with a keypad over a key, and are either electronic or mechanical. There are other types of non-keyed locks. Increasingly, the market is filled with smart locks. Smart locks are ones that can be operated remotely and cover a broad range of options. This consists of a few different options:

  • Complete replacement – this removes the entire lock mechanism and replaces it with the completely new mechanism. There are both deadbolt and knob replacement options here.
  • Retrofit deadbolt – This replaces the thumb turn of your deadbolt. The exterior appearance of the door, and the locking mechanism remain the same
  • Renter Options – These options attach on top of the thumb turn of deadbolts to allow for easy removal.

There are a few different interface options as well. And some have combinations of these

  • Key – Just because it is a smartlock doesn’t mean it can’t have a physical key as well
  • Keypad – Not only do some models offer built in keypads, some offer it as a separate unit you can attach to the doorframe, leaving no built in lock interface
  • Fingerprint – Biometric sensors
  • Bluetooth – These locks usually allow you to open/close with your phone only, or have a gateway/hub that allows you to do so over a network connection. These hubs, as well as the phone app to control the lock over bluetooth  are usually proprietary to the manufacturer.
  • Zigbee/Z-Wave – Zigbee and Z-Wave are two established home automation wireless protocols. They both require a hub/gateway. But unlike Bluetooth, there are a variety of devices with support for one or both of these protocols.
  • Matter over Thread – This is the new hot home automation standard, but the first lock supporting it was only released at CES 2024, so stay tuned. Like Zigbee and Z-Wave, it would require a hub/gateway.
  • Wi-Fi – Wi-Fi smart devices are problematic, because wi-fi can be rather battery intensive and smart locks are usually battery powered. The other negative for Wi-Fi is proprietary software.

You might note that a recurring issue for bluetooth and Wi-Fi locks, which you might initially prefer because you don’t have to add a gateway or a hub to connect it to your existing devices. The problem is support. You are relying on those manufacturers and their app. It could be argued you are relying on them anyway, because they made the device, but the biggest risk of smart devices in general is, if they rely wholly on a manufacturer app or a manufacturer cloud service, that it will eventually be discontinued, making your device useless. The local control options have issues of their own. Some manufacturers don’t implement the Zigbee or Z-Wave protocol consistently, which could create some issues depending on your hub/gateway’s support. We will write a bit about these protocols and gateways in future.

 

Published on January 11, 2024
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The Disney MagicBand+ as a Piece of Tech

Disney’s introduction of MagicBand technology was a massive change for the theme park. The overall system began development in 2008, with the idea of reducing friction in the park, and the over $1 billion dollar project to integrate technology at Disney parks culminated with a rollout a decade ago in 2013.

I remember the first experience with the MagicBands, and an experience with family members where the Disney staff just couldn’t fix the problems and kept giving old school paper documents. But, most of those sorts of issues were resolved.

 

Until the

MagicBand+

beginning of 2021, MagicBands were free to all Disney Resort guests….they’d even send you one with your name on it with advance reservations. But, in 2023, we have cell phones that can perform the same function and Disney added NFC support so you could use your phone in lieu. So, MagicBand became more of a collector’s item, or for children or other people without phone. Other guests can receive an RFID-enabled Key to the World card free of charge, and some people just put this in a lanyard in order to get the same utility of scanning as a MagicBand.

So, this brings us to MagicBand+, launched in 2022. It supports bluetooth pairing to your phone, software updates, and a bunch of ‘smart’ features. Disney compares MagicBand+ to MagicBand and to their MagicMobile Service(the phone apps). It’s waterproof, rechargeable, and unique to this device it ‘unlocks enchanting interactions’, in addition to what all of the choices do….unlock your room(if you have one), act as your ticket, check-in for virtual queues and lightning lanes, charge items to your account on file, link photos at rides.

So, I charged the thing up, linked it to the phone app via bluetooth, updated it, wore it for a whole day at Disneyland, and…well, it lit up once for five seconds. So…I was not enchanted. And I was not enchanted for $34.99. Reviews were equally mixed from others at both Disneyland and Disney World. You can’t seem to get original MagicBand anymore. So, the only use for this is so you don’t have to pull your phone out of your pocket to access things.

There are two types of scanners in a Disney park. The built-in ones you just run your hand over, and the mobile ones that ticket takers and others were using for other things, where they actually had to fiddle with it to put it into scan mode…so not much faster.

The MagicBand+ supports NFC, RFID, and BLE(for interactive experiences). It has 5 RGB LEDs as well as vibration ability. So, it is a nice little notification device. So, if you want, you could use an NFC/RFID scanner and use it to trigger events at home. There are some people trying to figure out how to connect to it over BLE and trigger the vibration and lighting system. I hope someone does the work on this, because it would allow me to recoup my investment more fully.

In researching this, the only device outside a theme park that can pair with it is an Amazon echo device, probably because of a partnership with Disney to allow certain experiences. People reported that they could pair the band and it would vibrate and light up in response to notifications. So, whatever custom pairing that requires a Disney app installed on your phone should be reproduceable. Other people reported that once paired, they were able to resend commands they monitored to trigger the device.

If not, there are other options for this that would be less expensive…the home options.

The idea Disney offered was interesting, but after all the money they spent on linking their experiences together, the band didn’t allow them to send me captured ride photos as promised, it didn’t present custom experiences, change screens in the park once it knew who I was…so, as a way of Disney customizing its experience..it was useless. But, now that I own it, I probably will reuse it just for the ability to wave myself into things over fumbling and unlocking my devices.

 

 

 

Published on December 22, 2023
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Taking Control Over Wifi Controlled Outlets

The Itead Sonoff line of products are inexpensive wifi controlled Smart Home devices that use a common chip, the ESP8266, which is popular amongst hobbyists for their own projects.

Continuing my goal of avoiding building my own hardware, I’ve focused on adaptive reuse. In order to use a Sonoff in its default configuration, you need their app, which routes information through their server in China.

I’m not that worried about the Chinese being able to control my humidifier, but I find it completely unnecessary. But, being as it uses a common chip, it can be reprogrammed.

The recommended and guaranteed way to do this is to solder connections onto the board and flash the chip with new firmware. However, one developer has worked to hijack the Sonoff’s over the air firmware update process to add custom firmware. You can find the work on Github along with custom firmware to install.

The custom firmware allows the device to be controlled by HTTP or MQTT control, which can then be tripped manually or by Home Automation software.

I have been using the Sonoff Socket S20, which is their remote controlled outlet. However, the same hardware is available as a wire-in power control module, as well as switches, temperature sensors, etc.

The control of these sockets has been reliable and without issue.

 

Published on October 14, 2017
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