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Gadget Wisdom

Category: Homelab

Self-hosted photo library setup with phone, laptop, and home server, illustrating Immich as a Google Photos alternative
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Best Self-Hosted Photo Solution: Why I Chose Immich

I am a big believer in the concept of multiple redundant backups. And few things are more important than memories and the family photos. I have built a NAS and have been keeping my important files on it, with the files backed up in two other locations. However, I had not done that for my photos. I have them in multiple locations, but I am paying for hosting.

One of my solutions is free…in a way. I back up to Amazon Photos, as it is included with Amazon Prime. However, so was Prime Video until they added ads, so it is not a guarantee this will continue and I never use it to retrieve photos, just as an extra location. The most popular photo sharing and storage site is probably Google Photos right now, though there are plenty of alternatives. I have stuff there as well.

I needed a place under my control to organize and share my photos, not just a disorganized archive. It was time to migrate to a less expensive self hosted solution, backed by my NAS for storage. Then I could incorporate my existing multi location backup system to keep the files safe.

Quick Answer: Is Immich the Best Self-Hosted Photo Solution?

For my needs, Immich is the best self-hosted photo solution because it feels closer to a modern Google Photos replacement than a simple file browser. It offers mobile app uploads, photo organization, map views, face and object recognition, sharing links, and a familiar interface while letting me keep the storage under my own control.

But Immich should not be treated as your only backup. It is a photo-management system, not a complete backup strategy by itself. If you self-host your photos, you still need multiple copies of the original files, ideally in more than one location.

Option Best For Big Caveat
Immich A modern self-hosted Google Photos-style experience Still requires a separate backup strategy
PhotoPrism Self-hosted photo browsing and organization Different feel and workflow than Google Photos
Google Photos Convenience, sharing, and cloud access Storage costs, privacy tradeoffs, and less control
Amazon Photos Extra photo storage for Prime members Useful as another copy, but not the system I want to depend on
NAS folder structure Long-term file control and backups Not a polished photo-browsing experience by itself

Immich

I had heard a lot about different self hosted solutions, but the most popular one I keep hearing about of late is Immich. Immich is in beta, but it is meant to reach stable this year. It already seems to be extremely stable, but it warns that you should have a backup strategy outside of it, as it is not meant to be a backup strategy by itself. I already have one, once I include this in the pipeline.

immich screenshotImmich is a full fledged system for photo sharing and organization. It supports showing photos on a map, face and object recognition, and more. I can easily share photos with expiring links or ones that will last forever. There is an API I can use to integrate with other systems.

While there are alternatives, such as Photoprism, Immich has a familiar design language, modern features, and offers a mobile app which can automatically backup your photos into Immich.

Immich Is Not a Backup Strategy By Itself

This is the part that matters most. Immich can organize, display, and sync photos, but that does not mean the photos are safe if Immich is the only place they exist.

For me, Immich makes sense because it fits into a broader system. The photos live on storage I control, and that storage can then be backed up to multiple other locations. That is very different from uploading everything to one service and deleting the originals.

A good photo setup should survive:

  • a failed hard drive
  • a mistaken deletion
  • a bad software update
  • a server migration
  • a cloud account problem
  • the slow realization that a “free” storage plan is not guaranteed forever

If you are self-hosting photos, the goal should not be fewer backups. It should be better control over how those backups happen.

Please remember, if you simply upload to Immich, or any service, and purge all other copies, that isn’t a backup.

Published on August 25, 2025
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Tasmota vs ESPHome comparison for Home Assistant, showing MQTT versus direct API integration, local automations, web interface, YAML configuration, OTA updates, and smart-home resilience.
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Tasmota vs ESPHome in 2026: Which Should You Use for Home Assistant?

Updated September 2026
I have been running smart switches and plugs with Tasmota for years.

Tasmota is excellent firmware. It is reliable, open source, has a useful web interface, supports an enormous range of hardware and can turn many cloud-dependent ESP devices into completely local smart-home devices.

Over time, though, I have migrated more of my devices to ESPHome.

My original explanation was that I was running into the limits of Tasmota. After spending more time with both platforms, I would phrase that differently.

Tasmota is more capable than I gave it credit for. Its Rules system can run useful automations directly on the device, and ESP32 versions of Tasmota add the much more powerful Berry scripting language.

What keeps pulling me toward ESPHome is something else: I prefer the way I can define the entire personality of a device in one configuration file.

The pins, relays, sensors, buttons, timers, fallback behavior, Home Assistant entities and local automations can all be part of the firmware I build for that particular device.

That has become increasingly useful as I try to make my smart home resilient rather than merely automated.

Quick Answer: Tasmota vs. ESPHome in 2026

Feature Tasmota ESPHome
Best for Quick, flexible local firmware for supported smart-home hardware Custom devices and deep Home Assistant integration
Initial setup Usually easier More configuration required
Configuration Web UI, modules, templates, commands and rules YAML compiled into device-specific firmware
Home Assistant connection MQTT through the official Tasmota integration Direct native API; MQTT is optional
MQTT broker required for Home Assistant? Yes No
Built-in web interface Yes Optional component
Local automations Rules; Berry scripting on ESP32 Extensive trigger/action/condition system
Configuration portability Templates/settings can be backed up Excellent: YAML is the device definition
Standalone use without Home Assistant Excellent Very capable, but more configuration-oriented
My preference Simple switches/plugs where Tasmota already works well Devices where I want custom behavior and resilient local logic

If I wanted to flash a simple supported smart plug and have it working quickly, I would still happily use Tasmota.

If I were building or substantially customizing a device that will live in my Home Assistant system, I would usually choose ESPHome.

Tasmota Is Still Really Good

I don’t think anyone should read this article as an argument that Tasmota has become obsolete.

It hasn’t.

Tasmota’s great strength is that an enormous amount of functionality already exists in one firmware package.

Flash a supported device, connect to its web interface, tell Tasmota what hardware it is running on, configure MQTT and you can often have a useful local device remarkably quickly.

For common switches and plugs, that is hard to beat.

Tasmota can provide:

  • A local web interface
  • Relay and light control
  • Buttons and switches
  • Power monitoring
  • Timers
  • Rules
  • Sensor support
  • MQTT
  • OTA firmware updates
  • Home Assistant integration
  • Device templates

A generic firmware with that much capability is a feature, not a flaw.

I Was Too Dismissive About Tasmota Rules

My earlier version of this article described Tasmota’s local logic as very limited.

That was unfair.

Tasmota’s Rules feature can react to triggers including switch changes, sensor thresholds, timers and system events and then execute commands locally. Rules are stored in flash and survive a reboot.

For something like:

  • Turn a relay off after a certain period
  • React to a button press
  • Respond to a temperature threshold
  • Run behavior at startup
  • Trigger actions based on sensor values

Tasmota can do quite a lot without Home Assistant.

And on ESP32 hardware, Tasmota includes Berry, a lightweight scripting language that goes dramatically beyond the basic Rules syntax.

Berry can create advanced automations, communicate over MQTT, implement custom drivers and interact directly with Tasmota’s hardware and services.

So the choice between Tasmota and ESPHome should not be reduced to:

Tasmota can’t do local logic; ESPHome can.

Both can.

I simply prefer how ESPHome lets me build and maintain increasingly customized devices.

Why I Keep Moving Devices to ESPHome

ESPHome takes a fundamentally different approach.

Instead of flashing a general-purpose firmware and configuring what the device should do afterward, I describe the device in YAML and ESPHome compiles firmware for that particular configuration.

If my device needs:

  • One relay
  • Two physical buttons
  • A temperature sensor
  • A countdown timer
  • A sunrise/sunset calculation
  • A Home Assistant connection

those are the components I put into the configuration.

If it doesn’t need a web server, I don’t need to include one.

If it does, I can add one.

I like having a text file that describes what the device is supposed to be.

The YAML File Becomes Documentation

This may be the biggest long-term advantage for me.

A smart switch configured three years ago can become something of an archaeological project.

Which pin controlled the relay?

Was the button inverted?

What did I make a double-click do?

Why does the outdoor light switch itself off at 1 a.m.?

With ESPHome, I can look at the configuration file.

The configuration can contain the hardware definition and the logic I intentionally added to it.

I can version it, back it up and use pieces of it again when configuring similar devices.

That becomes more valuable as the number of devices grows.

ESPHome Has a Major Home Assistant Advantage

Tasmota integrates very well with Home Assistant, but the architecture is different.

The official Tasmota integration communicates through MQTT.

That means the path is essentially:

Tasmota device ? MQTT broker ? Home Assistant

There is nothing wrong with that. MQTT is mature, useful and extremely flexible. I use MQTT elsewhere in my home infrastructure.

ESPHome offers a native API, so an ESPHome device can communicate directly with Home Assistant:

ESPHome device ? Home Assistant

No MQTT broker is required for that connection.

ESPHome’s native API uses an optimized protocol designed specifically for communication with systems including Home Assistant.

ESPHome says the native API also removes the MQTT broker as another potential single point of failure for communication between the device and Home Assistant.

For a Home Assistant-centric smart home, I prefer the simpler path.

Does That Mean MQTT Is Bad?

No.

I still use MQTT.

It remains extremely useful when information needs to move among multiple systems rather than only between a device and Home Assistant.

I use it in other parts of my home infrastructure, including weather-related systems.

ESPHome supports MQTT too, so this isn’t an either/or architectural decision.

I simply don’t see a need to route every ESPHome switch through MQTT merely because MQTT exists.

Which Is Easier: Tasmota or ESPHome?

Tasmota is generally easier to get started with.

If you have a supported smart plug or light switch, Tasmota’s workflow can be wonderfully simple:

  1. Flash Tasmota.
  2. Connect it to Wi-Fi.
  3. Select or enter the correct device template.
  4. Configure MQTT.
  5. Add it to Home Assistant.

ESPHome asks more of you.

You need a configuration that correctly describes the hardware.

You need to understand enough YAML to maintain it.

You compile firmware from that configuration.

If you get the GPIO assignment wrong, the device does not magically know which pin controls the relay.

ESPHome’s tools have become much friendlier, but I would still give Tasmota the advantage for someone who wants to get a conventional supported smart switch running as quickly as possible.

Tasmota’s Web Interface Is a Real Advantage

Every Tasmota user knows the convenience of typing the device’s address into a browser and getting a useful management interface.

You can inspect the device, change settings, access its console and update firmware without needing another management system.

ESPHome can also run a web server, but it is an optional component rather than the center of the platform.

That difference reflects the philosophy of the two projects rather well.

Tasmota feels like a complete appliance running on each smart device.

ESPHome feels like firmware you designed for that device.

One caution: ESPHome specifically warns that its web-server component consumes significant memory and can reduce stability on constrained ESP8266 devices. I therefore would not add it automatically to every node just because I can.

Which Works Better If Home Assistant Goes Down?

The answer is: either one can work very well, if you design it that way.

This is important.

A local smart-home firmware does not magically make every automation local.

If the device sends a button press to Home Assistant and Home Assistant decides what to do next, that behavior depends on Home Assistant regardless of whether the switch runs Tasmota or ESPHome.

If the decision happens on the device itself, it can continue without Home Assistant.

Both platforms support that.

My preference for ESPHome comes from how I have chosen to design those behaviors.

My Smart Home Has an A-Mode and a B-Mode

I have been trying to build devices that continue doing something sensible when the larger automation system is unavailable.

I think of this as B-Mode, borrowing terminology from theme-park attractions.

A-Mode is ideal operation.

Everything is online. Home Assistant has access to every sensor and can coordinate the entire house.

B-Mode is what happens when something breaks.

The system may become less sophisticated, but basic functions continue.

For example, I have built ESPHome devices where:

  • Outdoor lights can run their own dawn-to-dusk logic.
  • A physical switch continues controlling its own relay.
  • Countdown behavior happens on the device.
  • Important local behavior does not require a round trip through Home Assistant.
  • Some ESPHome devices can exchange selected information directly.

I wrote more about that architecture in Designing a B-Mode: How I’m Building Fail-Safe Smart Home Devices with ESPHome.

What Logic Should Run on the Device?

I don’t think every automation belongs inside ESPHome.

Quite the opposite.

Home Assistant has far more context than an individual light switch.

It may know:

  • Who is home
  • Whether the alarm is armed
  • The state of dozens of other devices
  • Whether you’re on vacation
  • The current weather
  • Whether a particular scene is active

That kind of whole-house coordination belongs at the higher level.

I use device-level automation for behavior that is inherent to the device or useful when the larger system is unavailable.

Examples include:

  • What the physical button does
  • What state a relay should assume after reboot
  • A safety timeout
  • A local countdown
  • Fallback dawn/dusk behavior
  • Basic interaction with a directly connected sensor

My guide to home automation scenes covers the other side of this: coordinating multiple devices at the smart-home level.

ESPHome Is Particularly Good for Custom Hardware

This is where the comparison increasingly tilts toward ESPHome for me.

Tasmota is fantastic when the hardware resembles something Tasmota already understands.

ESPHome becomes especially attractive when I am defining the hardware myself.

I have used ESPHome for sensors as well as commercial smart-home devices.

It supports components for an enormous range of:

  • Temperature and humidity sensors
  • Air-quality sensors
  • Displays
  • Relays
  • Buttons
  • Bluetooth devices
  • Distance sensors
  • Energy monitoring
  • LEDs
  • Motors
  • Climate devices
  • Other microcontroller peripherals

My outdoor AirGradient air-quality monitor, for example, runs ESPHome and integrates into my local monitoring systems.

Once I was already using ESPHome for sensors, using the same platform for more switches and plugs became increasingly appealing.

Tasmota Still Has a Big Advantage for Generic Devices

Suppose I buy a common ESP-based smart plug.

Someone has already identified:

  • The relay GPIO
  • The button GPIO
  • The LED GPIO
  • Whether those pins are inverted
  • The energy-monitoring chip

If a good Tasmota template exists, I can apply it and be mostly finished.

That is excellent.

ESPHome may have a ready-made configuration too, but fundamentally it expects me to describe what I want the device to contain.

For a simple plug that needs no unusual behavior, Tasmota’s generic-firmware approach may be the more efficient answer.

ESPHome vs. Tasmota for Automations

The platforms approach automation differently.

Tasmota

Tasmota provides its Rules engine for trigger/action logic. On ESP32, Berry offers much more advanced scripting.

This is powerful and keeps the logic local.

ESPHome

ESPHome exposes triggers, conditions and actions throughout its component system.

The automation becomes another part of the YAML configuration that builds the firmware.

For me, that makes complicated device-specific behavior easier to understand months later.

I can read one configuration and see both the hardware and what I told it to do.

ESPHome vs. Tasmota for Home Assistant

If Home Assistant is central to your smart home, I give ESPHome the advantage.

The native API means entities can appear directly through the ESPHome integration without requiring MQTT as the middle layer.

The API can also expose user-defined actions and allow ESPHome automations to interact with Home Assistant.

Tasmota’s Home Assistant integration is also mature and automatic, but it depends on a configured MQTT broker.

If you already run MQTT and like the architecture, that may not bother you in the slightest.

If you don’t otherwise need MQTT, ESPHome removes something you would otherwise have to operate.

Tasmota vs. ESPHome for Someone Who Doesn’t Use Home Assistant

Here I would lean much more strongly toward Tasmota for ordinary smart plugs, switches and lights.

Tasmota has a strong standalone web interface and was built around protocols such as MQTT that can integrate with many systems.

ESPHome does not require Home Assistant and can run substantial local logic on its own. You can add a web server and other interfaces.

But ESPHome’s strongest ecosystem advantage is unquestionably its relationship with Home Assistant.

If Home Assistant is nowhere in your plans and the device is conventional hardware, I would ask what ESPHome is buying you before choosing it.

What About Updates?

Both platforms support over-the-air firmware updates.

With Tasmota, updating a normal device through the web UI is extremely straightforward.

ESPHome can deploy firmware OTA from its management tools after the initial installation.

ESPHome also provides a safe-mode mechanism intended to make recovery easier when an OTA update does not boot normally.

One difference is philosophical again.

A Tasmota update generally updates a common firmware.

An ESPHome update recompiles the firmware described by your configuration.

I prefer having the configuration as the permanent source of truth.

Should You Switch Working Tasmota Devices to ESPHome?

Not automatically.

I would not convert twenty perfectly reliable Tasmota plugs merely because I decided ESPHome is my preferred platform.

Migration costs time and creates an opportunity to break something that currently works.

I would switch when I have a reason.

For me, those reasons include:

  • I want more customized device behavior.
  • I want the configuration represented in YAML.
  • I want to remove the MQTT dependency for Home Assistant communication.
  • I want to build more local fallback behavior.
  • I am already changing or rebuilding the device configuration anyway.

If Tasmota is doing the job perfectly, continuing to run Tasmota is a completely reasonable decision.

How to Move From Tasmota to ESPHome

This process has changed significantly, particularly for newer ESP32 devices.

Do not download a random ESPHome binary and blindly upload it.

Before converting a working device, I would do the following.

1. Document the Existing Tasmota Configuration

Before changing anything, record:

  • The exact device model
  • The Tasmota module or template
  • GPIO assignments
  • Relay configuration
  • Button and switch configuration
  • Inversion settings
  • Energy-monitoring hardware
  • Any Tasmota Rules
  • MQTT topic names if you may need them later
  • The installed Tasmota version

I would take screenshots and save the Tasmota configuration backup too.

If the ESPHome configuration doesn’t work, you want to know exactly what the previously working firmware was doing.

2. Identify the Actual ESP Chip

You need to know whether the device contains:

  • ESP8266
  • ESP32
  • ESP32-C3
  • ESP32-S2
  • ESP32-S3
  • Another supported variant

Do not infer this from the product name alone.

For ESP32 Tasmota devices, the firmware variant displayed in the Tasmota interface can help identify the chip.

3. Build the ESPHome Configuration First

Create the ESPHome device configuration before replacing Tasmota.

At minimum, make sure you have:

  • The correct microcontroller platform
  • Wi-Fi credentials or provisioning method
  • Logging
  • OTA support
  • The Home Assistant API if you intend to use it
  • The correct hardware GPIO configuration

I would keep the initial configuration relatively simple.

Get the hardware working first. Add elaborate automations later.

4. Be Very Careful With Tasmota v12+ on ESP32

This is the most important current migration warning.

Newer Tasmota versions on ESP32 use a safeboot partition layout that differs from a normal ESPHome layout.

Current ESPHome supports migrating these devices over the air, but its official migration instructions require enabling partition access in the first ESPHome firmware used for the conversion.

The relevant ESPHome OTA configuration uses:

ota:
  - platform: esphome
    allow_partition_access: true

Do not copy that line into every ESPHome device permanently. It is needed for this particular migration process.

After the first ESPHome firmware is running, the ESP32 partition table still needs to be migrated according to ESPHome’s current Tasmota migration procedure. Once that is complete, the partition-access option can be removed.

The exact partition migration depends on the application size, so I would follow the current official ESPHome “Migrating from Tasmota” instructions rather than copying an old command sequence from a forum post.

ESPHome warns that losing power or resetting the device while the partition table is actually being rewritten can leave it requiring physical recovery. I would not perform that step during a thunderstorm on a device I cannot easily reach.

5. ESP8266 Has a Different Problem: Firmware Size

ESP8266 devices have much less flash space.

ESPHome’s migration documentation recommends compressed firmware when moving from modern Tasmota versions because the ESPHome image may otherwise be too large for the OTA slot.

Older Tasmota versions can require an intermediate minimal image or additional Tasmota settings before accepting the ESPHome firmware.

Again, check the current migration guide for the Tasmota version actually installed on your device.

6. Upload the ESPHome Firmware Through Tasmota

Once you have built the appropriate migration image, Tasmota’s Firmware Upgrade page can accept the ESPHome binary.

If the flash succeeds, the device should reboot into ESPHome and connect using the network settings in your ESPHome configuration.

That is the point at which I verify the basic hardware before doing anything clever.

7. Test Every Physical Function

Check:

  • Does the physical button work?
  • Does the relay turn on and off correctly?
  • Does the status LED behave correctly?
  • Does a power-monitoring chip report sensible values?
  • Do sensors appear?
  • Does the device recover correctly after power loss?
  • Does Home Assistant see the expected entities?

A configuration that successfully compiles is not necessarily a configuration that correctly represents the hardware.

8. Only Then Add the Advanced Logic

Once the device behaves like the original switch or plug, I start adding the reason I migrated it.

That might be:

  • A local countdown timer
  • Dawn/dusk control
  • Direct sensor behavior
  • Fallback logic
  • Additional diagnostic sensors
  • Virtual switches to enable or disable local behavior

Separating migration from customization makes troubleshooting much easier.

Don’t Open a Mains-Powered Switch Just to Migrate It Unless You Know What You’re Doing

Many Tasmota and ESPHome devices are connected directly to household mains voltage.

Serial flashing can require physical access to programming pads inside the device.

If OTA migration works, I strongly prefer it.

If a device needs to be opened and connected to a programmer, make sure it is completely disconnected from mains electricity. Do not work on an energized smart switch or plug.

If recovering a failed flash requires electrical work you are not comfortable doing, that is another good reason not to migrate a perfectly functioning Tasmota device without a compelling benefit.

Save Your ESPHome YAML Somewhere Safe

Once a device is migrated, the YAML becomes important.

The firmware running on the microcontroller is compiled output.

The configuration file is the useful human-readable description that lets you rebuild, modify and understand it later.

I keep the configuration rather than treating ESPHome as something I configure once and forget.

This also makes it much easier to create a second similar device.

ESPHome’s Optional Web Server Needs Some Care

If you miss Tasmota’s web UI, ESPHome has a web-server component.

I would use it selectively.

ESPHome warns that the web server consumes memory, especially on ESP8266.

And because it exposes device controls over HTTP, it should not simply be exposed to the internet.

If I enable the web interface, I keep the device on a trusted local network and configure authentication where appropriate.

ESPHome’s documentation now specifically recommends authenticating the web server and protecting any web-based OTA capability.

Can ESPHome Work Without the Internet?

Yes.

So can Tasmota.

Neither platform inherently requires a cloud service for ordinary local operation.

Exactly what continues functioning without internet access depends on what you configured.

An ESPHome switch with local button-to-relay logic does not need the internet to turn the relay on.

A Tasmota Rule responding to a local input does not need the internet either.

An automation that requests an internet weather service obviously does.

Local firmware is an important building block for a resilient smart home, but you still have to design the dependencies.

Can ESPHome Work If Home Assistant Is Offline?

Yes, for logic that actually runs on the ESPHome device.

Physical button behavior, local timers, sensor thresholds and other on-device automations can continue running.

Anything that explicitly asks Home Assistant to perform an action still depends on Home Assistant.

This is why I distinguish between:

device logic — what this individual device should always know how to do

and:

home automation — coordination requiring knowledge of the rest of the house.

ESPHome gives me a convenient way to decide where that boundary should be.

Does Tasmota Work If the MQTT Broker Is Down?

The device itself can.

Physical controls, timers and local Tasmota Rules do not stop functioning simply because the MQTT broker disappears.

But Home Assistant’s official Tasmota integration communicates through MQTT, so the normal Home Assistant connection to that device will be unavailable while the broker is down.

That is one reason I like removing the broker from the ESPHome-to-Home-Assistant path when I do not otherwise need it.

When I Would Choose Tasmota in 2026

I would choose Tasmota when:

  • I have a conventional supported smart plug, switch or light.
  • I want to get it running quickly.
  • I value an always-available local configuration interface.
  • I already use MQTT heavily.
  • The existing Rules system handles the local logic I need.
  • I don’t use Home Assistant.
  • The device is working perfectly and I have no reason to change it.

When I Would Choose ESPHome in 2026

I would choose ESPHome when:

  • I am building custom sensor hardware.
  • Home Assistant is the center of the smart home.
  • I want the device definition stored as YAML.
  • I want sophisticated device-specific behavior.
  • I want to eliminate an unnecessary MQTT dependency.
  • I want to build explicit fallback behavior into a device.
  • I want to reuse configuration across similar hardware.
  • I expect the device’s behavior to evolve over time.

Tasmota vs. ESPHome: My Decision by Device Type

Device What I Would Probably Choose
Basic smart plug Tasmota is still extremely attractive
Basic wall switch Either; I wouldn’t migrate a working Tasmota switch without a reason
Custom environmental sensor ESPHome
Complex multi-sensor ESP32 project ESPHome
Home Assistant-centric device with custom behavior ESPHome
Standalone device with strong web-management requirement Tasmota
Existing Tasmota device working perfectly Leave it alone unless ESPHome solves a real problem

Frequently Asked Questions About Tasmota vs. ESPHome

Is ESPHome better than Tasmota?

Not universally. I prefer ESPHome for custom devices and Home Assistant-centric installations because its YAML configuration, native Home Assistant API and local automation system fit the way I build my smart home. Tasmota remains an excellent choice for quickly converting supported smart switches, plugs and lights to local control.

Is Tasmota easier than ESPHome?

For a typical supported smart-home device, usually yes. Tasmota provides a general firmware, web interface and device templates. ESPHome normally requires you to create or obtain a YAML configuration and compile firmware for the specific device.

Does ESPHome require Home Assistant?

No. ESPHome devices can run independently and can execute automations locally. Home Assistant is where ESPHome has its strongest integration, however, and is a major reason many people choose it.

Does Tasmota require Home Assistant?

No. Tasmota is a standalone firmware with its own web interface, MQTT support, rules, timers and other functionality.

Does Tasmota require MQTT?

Not for the device itself. However, the official Home Assistant Tasmota integration communicates with Tasmota devices through MQTT, so an MQTT broker is required for that integration.

Does ESPHome require MQTT?

No. ESPHome can communicate directly with Home Assistant using its native API. ESPHome also supports MQTT when you have a reason to use it.

Can Tasmota run automations without Home Assistant?

Yes. Tasmota Rules can execute trigger/action logic locally, and ESP32 versions support the more advanced Berry scripting language.

Can ESPHome run automations without Home Assistant?

Yes. ESPHome automations can run directly on the microcontroller. That is one of the main reasons I use it for device-level fallback behavior.

Can I flash ESPHome over Tasmota without opening the device?

Often, yes. ESPHome has an official Tasmota migration process. ESP8266 and ESP32 devices have different considerations, and ESP32 devices running newer Tasmota partition layouts require additional partition-migration steps. Check the current ESPHome migration instructions for your exact situation before flashing.

Should I migrate all my Tasmota devices to ESPHome?

I wouldn’t. I migrate devices when ESPHome gives me something useful: better device-specific logic, simpler Home Assistant integration or configuration I want to maintain as code. A reliable Tasmota device that already does everything you need can remain a reliable Tasmota device.

Which is better for Home Assistant?

I prefer ESPHome. Its native API connects directly to Home Assistant without requiring an MQTT broker, and ESPHome entities and device-specific functionality integrate very naturally with Home Assistant. Tasmota’s Home Assistant support is also good, particularly if you already operate MQTT.

Which is better for beginners?

For converting a supported commercial switch or plug, Tasmota is probably easier. For someone who already uses Home Assistant and wants to build custom sensors or learn how the hardware actually works, ESPHome may be worth learning from the beginning.

Why I’m Still Moving Toward ESPHome

I started moving devices from Tasmota because I wanted more control.

I still do.

But after using both platforms longer, I no longer think the comparison is about one being powerful and the other being limited.

They solve the same problem from different directions.

Tasmota gives you an extraordinarily capable general-purpose firmware and lets you configure it into the device you need.

ESPHome lets you describe the device you want and then builds firmware around that description.

I increasingly prefer the second model.

For my smart home, it makes each device easier to document, customize and deliberately design for failure.

But I still have Tasmota devices.

And if a Tasmota switch is sitting in the wall doing exactly what it is supposed to do, I don’t feel any particular need to disturb it.

The best smart-home firmware is the one that makes the device reliable, local and understandable—and then lets you forget about it until you actually want to change something.

More Smart Home Guides

Published on August 20, 2025
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Vacation Home Temperature Monitoring: Remote Sensors for Peace of Mind

Vacation Home Temperature Monitoring

Owning a vacation home or a second home is a wonderful luxury, but managing your home when you are far away comes with its own set of challenges—especially when it comes to maintaining proper environmental conditions. This is where the X-Sense Wi-Fi Hygrometer Thermometer(Model STH54) becomes an invaluable tool.

Quick Answer: How Do You Monitor a Vacation Home Temperature Remotely?

The easiest way to monitor a vacation home temperature remotely is to use a Wi-Fi temperature and humidity sensor with phone alerts. Place sensors near plumbing, basements, wine storage, utility rooms, or other areas where freezing, overheating, or humidity problems could cause damage while you are away.

Monitoring Area Why It Matters What To Watch
Near plumbing Freezing pipes can burst and cause major water damage Low-temperature alerts near vulnerable pipes
Basement or crawlspace Humidity and temperature swings can signal trouble Humidity spikes, freezing risk, damp conditions
Wine cellar Wine is sensitive to heat and humidity changes Temperature and humidity range alerts
Utility room Heating or HVAC problems may show up here first Unexpected temperature drops or overheating
Main living area Confirms the home is staying within a safe range General temperature and humidity trends

With its ability to monitor both temperature and humidity, this smart device allows you to keep an eye on your property remotely, offering peace of mind and helping you avoid costly issues. Here’s how I use this vacation home temperature monitoring solution to protect my distant home.

Monitoring a Wine Cellar From Away

One of the first places I installed the X-Sense Wi-Fi Hygrometer was in my wine cellar. Proper storage conditions are critical for preserving the quality of wine, and even slight fluctuations in temperature or humidity can have a significant impact.

Using the hygrometer, I’m able to track real-time temperature and humidity levels from my phone, no matter where I am. The app’s customizable alarms notify me immediately if conditions deviate from my set parameters, ensuring my wine is always stored in ideal conditions.

Watching for Freezing Pipes Before They Burst

Another strategic placement for the sensor was near plumbing. In colder climates, pipes are at risk of freezing and bursting when temperatures drop too low, and when gone for months there is no need to keep the house fully heated. Even though I drain my pipes and turn off the main, I want to be sure that these areas of the house don’t drop too low. By positioning the X-Sense hygrometer near vulnerable areas, I can monitor temperatures remotely and receive alerts if they approach freezing. This gives me time to act, whether it’s adjusting the home’s heating system(also remotely) or contacting someone nearby to check on the property.

Setting Up Wi-Fi Temperature Sensors

Setting up the X-Sense Wi-Fi Hygrometer was surprisingly simple. After unboxing the device, I downloaded the companion app and connected the base station to my home’s Wi-Fi network.  Then I was able to pair each of the three sensors with the base station and place them. Within minutes, I was able to view data, set alarm thresholds, and start monitoring my property. The intuitive app makes it easy to adjust settings and view historical data, providing a comprehensive view of environmental conditions over time.

Why Remote Temperature Alerts Matter

With the X-Sense Wi-Fi Hygrometer, being far away from my second home has become significantly less stressful.
Knowing that I’ll be notified of any potential issues gives me peace of mind, whether I’m hundreds of miles away or just down the road. It’s a small investment that has already paid off by helping me maintain optimal conditions for my property and prevent potential disasters.

If you’re looking for a reliable, easy-to-use solution to monitor temperature and humidity at your vacation home, the X-Sense Wi-Fi Hygrometer is a tool worth considering. I have found it to be an indispensable tool for vacation home temperature monitoring.

If you are building a broader monitoring setup, you may also want to read my guide to securing a vacation home with remote monitoring.

Published on January 16, 2025
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How To Try Out ClassicPress- A Throwback WordPress Alternative

I choose to self-host my site on a VPS. But I know that isn’t for everyone. If you can install WordPress on a shared host, ClassicPress installs the same way. For that reason, many people shared hosting services have a one-click ClassicPress install alongside their WordPress one-click install.

ClassicPress has less of an admin tax than WordPress…the way WordPress used to be. An administration tax is the time you spend administering a site over actually creating content for it. WordPress and ClassicPress both have some of this…but as WordPress moves farther and farther away from its roots, you end up having to update things to work well with the latest. This means that while right now, most WordPress plugins work with ClassicPress…that might increasingly not be the case….at least not without a small amount of work.

For my own plugins, I intend to test them against both systems for the foreseeable future. But as WordPress drifts further away from its roots, and therefore from ClassicPress, people writing plugins that can work without the block editor dependencies becomes increasingly important.

If you already have a WordPress Site, you can install the ClassicPress migration plugin. You can install ClassicPress by following the other options here.

Published on December 24, 2024
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As WordPress Leader Rants, Time To Reach For a Classic With ClassicPress

On my personal website, I do occasionally talk about the future of WordPress and my issues in developing plugins for my own use. But I also maintain the Gadget Wisdom infrastructure. So, recently, I wrote about switching my personal site to ClassicPress. I’m going to continue to write about that there, but wanted to cover a little of this here, in a different context.

Recent drama at WordPress finds a lot of people exploring exits from the community. WordPress drama is not a new thing. There were many times during the transition from WordPress 4.9 to 5.0 I considered leaving. But having built many things on top of a platform, I opted to remain.

More recently, I switched this site over to ClassicPress as well, a fork of WordPress. ClassicPress has a simple plugin to migrate WordPress instances…it will even let you revert back if need be. So, while the drama over on the WordPress side may continue, I get to keep the platform without the elements that frustrate me. There are concerns about ClassicPress as well. WordPress powers a significant percentage of identifiable websites. Forks of projects do not always survive, but there are many examples where they do.

ClassicPress is a fork of WordPress that removes the block editor…WordPress’s big change in Version 5. It retains a traditional editor, which many people prefer, and continues to iterate in that direction. As a result, it is leaner and somewhat more performative. It is WordPress as it used to be…but also with improvements…but in a completely different direction than WordPress while maintaining compatibility. The only problem is that the project doesn’t get the attention it could, especially now that people are questioning the governance of WordPress. But it is WordPress…like it used to be…before it went hard in another direction.

 

Published on December 24, 2024
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There Is No Place Like Homelab- Why You Need One In Your Life

When I started writing about technology, I don’t think the term homelab existed. I only started hearing it more recently. But like many things, I apparently had one before the term existed. Homelab usually refers to a computer or computers used within your home to experiment. People self-host applications in their homelabs, they build network attached storage, they host and serve their media files. Some people use it to experiment with technologies they might need to or wish to use professionally.

The communities of hobbyists and tech enthusiasts have changed a lot over those years. I still remember when buying a single megabyte of RAM was a big deal, or having a whole 40MB of hard drive space. There is so much out there to experiment with and I’ve been running a homelab without even realizing that’s what I could call it.

A homelab can be as simple as an old retired computer you run a server on. Or it could be a custom built system for purpose. I’ve had both. And I’ve repurposed numerous times before the end of computer hardware’s life cycle.

I’ve written a lot about topics that fall under that previously…self-hosting, storage, media, etc. So, thinking about this under the banner of homelab gives me the chance to talk about this idea of running your own applications on either your home server, or server space you rent outside your house, and the infrastructure I’ve created to do just that. And there is always a new application or new need to experiment with.

A quick warning though. If you experiment in your own home, you do have to be aware that…should you share that home with someone else, that your experiments may affect their quality of life. For example, if you are playing with home automation, they might not appreciate if you cover up the light switches so you can use smart bulbs they can’t control.

That said, let’s get started.

Published on December 4, 2024
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Sitting At The Docker By The Drive Bay: TrueNAS Scale Switches to Docker – But Why Docker?

As part of my continuing, Building My NAS series, I wrote about choosing TrueNAS as the software powering my homebuilt network attached storage device. One of the features of TrueNAS Scale has been the ability to run various self-hosted cloud applications. In the latest version of TrueNAS, the backend for those applications switches to Docker. Docker is arguably the most popular way to deploy pre-built complete applications. It not only isolates each application into its own container, but it simplifies the process of deploying and configuring them.

While the number of applications offered directly in TrueNAS, the switch to Docker allows for tens of thousands of public docker files to set up many more applications than are officially supported.

After years of installing applications on the servers that host them, I’ve reluctantly embraced Docker as a solution for when specific combinations are needed, such as specific versions of software. Looking at why other people use it, it is the…”it just works” philosophy. You can install an application, reinstall it cleanly, isolate it from other things…simplicity has its advantages.

It makes Docker a great way to quickly switch from third party services to your own. And combined with a system like TrueNAS providing storage solutions, it can create the basis for a complete solution for yourself and your home.

Published on December 1, 2024
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Refurbished HGST Ultrastar enterprise hard drives beside a NAS, with a checklist for SMART testing, surface testing, warranty, and backup strategy.
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Are Refurbished Hard Drives Worth It? Buying Used Enterprise Drives for a NAS in 2026

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For most of the years I have been buying hard drives, I bought them new.

For servers and NAS systems, I generally preferred NAS or enterprise-grade drives from Western Digital, Seagate or Toshiba. Storage is one of the last places I want to discover that saving a few dollars was a bad idea.

Then my backup strategy started getting expensive.

I do not want my primary NAS to be the only copy of important files. I want redundant backups, including a copy stored somewhere physically separate from the primary NAS. Once you start duplicating tens of terabytes of storage, buying every drive new becomes a substantial expense.

So I tried something I previously would have avoided: refurbished enterprise hard drives.

I bought a pair through GoHardDrive for one of my secondary backup systems. That machine sits at a family member’s house and receives another copy of data from my primary NAS.

After using refurbished drives this way, I no longer think the answer is simply “never buy used storage.”

But I also would not buy an unknown used hard drive from a random marketplace seller simply because it is cheap.

In 2026, I think refurbished and recertified enterprise drives can be an excellent value for a NAS or backup server—as long as you understand what you are buying, test the drives when they arrive, buy from a seller that actually stands behind them, and never make one drive the only copy of anything important.

Quick Answer: Are Refurbished Hard Drives Worth It?

Yes, refurbished hard drives can be worth buying when:

  • The savings over a comparable new drive are substantial
  • You are buying from a reputable seller
  • The seller provides a meaningful warranty
  • You verify that the interface and sector format work with your system
  • You test the drive before trusting it with data
  • Your storage has redundancy
  • Your important data exists somewhere else too

I particularly like refurbished enterprise drives for:

  • Secondary NAS systems
  • Off-site backup servers
  • Large media libraries that can be recreated
  • Homelab storage
  • Cold or secondary copies of data

I am more conservative about using them when I am building a brand-new primary storage array containing important data, although I would not rule them out there either.

Use Would I Consider Refurbished? My Take
Off-site backup Yes One of my favorite uses
Secondary NAS Yes Excellent place to save money
Plex/media storage Yes Especially if the files exist elsewhere
Homelab Yes Enterprise capacity can be inexpensive
Primary NAS Maybe I would want good redundancy, testing and backups
Only copy of important files No I would not do this with a new drive either

Refurbished vs. Recertified vs. Used Hard Drives

These words are often treated as though they mean the same thing.

They do not necessarily.

Used Hard Drive

A used hard drive is exactly what it sounds like.

Someone used it and is now selling it.

That tells you almost nothing about:

  • How long it was used
  • What workload it handled
  • Whether it has been fully tested
  • Whether every sector has been checked
  • How it was stored
  • How it was shipped

I would be reluctant to buy an ordinary used drive without knowing considerably more.

Seller Refurbished

A seller-refurbished drive has been inspected or tested by the company reselling it.

The important question is what refurbished means to that seller.

Did someone plug it in and check whether it appeared in Windows?

Or did the seller inspect SMART data, perform read/write testing, scan the full disk surface and reject questionable drives?

Those are very different products even if both listings say “refurbished.”

Manufacturer Recertified

A manufacturer-recertified drive has gone through a recertification process associated with the original manufacturer.

That is generally more meaningful to me than a vague marketplace “renewed” label, but it still does not mean the drive is new.

And it does not automatically mean you receive the same warranty that came with the drive when it was originally sold.

ServerPartDeals, for example, distinguishes between manufacturer-recertified and seller-refurbished drives. Its manufacturer-recertified drives have been recertified by the original manufacturer, while the warranty on drives it sells may come from ServerPartDeals rather than the drive manufacturer.

Always check the exact listing.

Recertified Does Not Automatically Mean a Five-Year Warranty

This is something I would pay much closer attention to now than I did when I originally wrote this article.

Warranty terms vary enormously.

For example:

  • Many current GoHardDrive certified-refurbished enterprise listings advertise five-year seller warranties, although some products have shorter warranties.
  • Many ServerPartDeals manufacturer-recertified and seller-refurbished drives currently carry a two-year seller warranty.
  • Seagate says its factory-recertified drives sold through its own program include a six-month warranty.
  • Western Digital says recertified products purchased through its own store currently carry a 12-month manufacturer warranty.

That is why I would never write:

“Refurbished drives come with a five-year warranty.”

Some do. Some do not.

Before buying, I want to know:

  1. Who provides the warranty?
  2. How long does it last?
  3. Does the seller pay return shipping?
  4. Will I receive a replacement or refund?
  5. How long is the initial return period?

A cheap 16TB drive with a real five-year seller warranty is a very different proposition from a cheap 16TB drive sold “as-is.”

Where Do Refurbished Enterprise Hard Drives Come From?

One reason this market exists is the enormous number of drives used in data centers and enterprise storage systems.

Businesses replace equipment for reasons that have nothing to do with an individual drive failing.

A data center may replace an entire generation of hardware because:

  • Higher-capacity drives make the rack space more valuable
  • A storage lease expires
  • Equipment reaches a planned refresh cycle
  • A server fleet is retired
  • Capacity is consolidated
  • The economics of operating older equipment change

The drives coming out of those systems can have years of power-on time.

That does not automatically make them bad drives.

But it absolutely makes their history relevant.

Yes, Some Refurbished Drives Have a Lot of Hours

If you expect a refurbished enterprise drive to arrive with 12 hours of use, you may be disappointed.

GoHardDrive currently has listings that explicitly disclose drives previously used in data centers for several years. ServerPartDeals also sells refurbished drives for which power-on-hour limits may be disclosed.

A drive that spent four or five years in a data center is not remotely equivalent to a new drive.

The question is whether the remaining useful life and warranty justify the price.

For my off-site backup use, that trade can make sense.

If I can buy substantially more redundant storage for the same budget, I am sometimes willing to accept an older drive—especially when failure means replacing the drive and rebuilding another copy rather than losing the only copy of my files.

Does a High Power-On-Hour Count Mean a Drive Is About to Fail?

No.

It also does not mean you should ignore the number.

Hard drives are mechanical devices. Bearings, motors, heads and other components accumulate use.

But there is no magic SMART value where a drive with 19,999 hours is safe and a drive with 20,001 hours is doomed.

A drive with many hours can run for years.

A brand-new drive can fail next week.

I use power-on hours as one piece of information rather than as a prediction of the date the drive will die.

What SMART Data Should You Check on a Refurbished Drive?

SMART—Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology—lets a hard drive report a variety of health and usage information.

At minimum, I would look at:

  • Power-on hours
  • Reallocated sectors
  • Current pending sectors
  • Offline uncorrectable sectors
  • Reported uncorrectable errors, where available
  • Interface CRC errors
  • Overall SMART health

The exact attribute names and meanings vary by manufacturer.

A CRC error can also come from a bad SATA cable or connection rather than damaged platters, so I would not treat every nonzero SMART counter as proof that the drive itself is dying.

SMART is useful.

It is not a crystal ball.

I Would Test a Refurbished Drive Before Putting It Into Service

This is probably the most important practical advice in this article.

I would not receive a refurbished 16TB hard drive, see that it powers on, immediately add it to a production array and start trusting it.

I want to exercise the drive first.

My initial testing would include:

  1. Check the SMART data when the drive arrives.
  2. Run the manufacturer’s or operating system’s extended drive test.
  3. Perform a full-surface read test.
  4. If practical before adding data, perform a full write/read test across the drive.
  5. Check SMART data again afterward.

The important idea is to make the drive do some work while it is still easy to return.

A complete test of a very large hard drive takes a long time. A 16TB, 18TB or 20TB mechanical drive is not going to complete a full-surface exercise in twenty minutes.

Let it run.

I would much rather discover an error on day two than three months after adding the drive to a remote backup server.

Some Refurbished Sellers Do Substantial Testing Before Shipping

This is one reason I care who sells the drive.

ServerPartDeals currently describes a four-stage testing process that includes:

  • Physical inspection
  • SMART analysis
  • Read/write and throughput testing
  • A full sector scan

That is much more reassuring than a marketplace seller saying only “tested working.”

I would still test the drive myself after shipping.

Hard drives do not particularly enjoy being thrown around by delivery companies.

Packaging Matters More Than It Does for Most Computer Parts

A hard drive can be perfectly healthy when it leaves the seller and damaged by poor shipping.

This is another reason I prefer sellers that specialize in drives and server equipment.

A bare hard drive bouncing around inside an oversized cardboard box with one air pillow is not how I want storage shipped.

I want:

  • An anti-static bag
  • Substantial shock protection
  • A drive immobilized inside the package
  • A box appropriate for a heavy mechanical device

When a refurbished drive arrives, I inspect both the drive and packaging before putting it into service.

GoHardDrive vs. ServerPartDeals

These are the two sellers I would look at first if I were shopping for refurbished enterprise hard drives today.

GoHardDrive

GoHardDrive has been around for years and sells drives through its own site as well as marketplaces including Amazon.

I have personally bought refurbished drives from GoHardDrive.

What makes many of its listings attractive is the warranty. A number of its current certified-refurbished enterprise drives include five-year seller warranties.

The warranty varies by listing, so check rather than assume.

The 10TB HGST Ultrastar drive from my original article is still available through the same tracked Amazon listing:

Check the current price of the 10TB refurbished HGST Ultrastar on Amazon

I would still compare it with current new-drive pricing before buying. The refurbished market changes constantly, and a bargain at one price can be a poor deal after new drives go on sale.

ServerPartDeals

ServerPartDeals is another seller I would seriously consider.

It separates listings into categories including:

  • New
  • Manufacturer recertified
  • Seller refurbished

I particularly like that distinction because “refurbished” on the wider internet can mean almost anything.

ServerPartDeals also publishes details of its drive-testing and packaging procedures.

Many of its current refurbished and manufacturer-recertified drives carry a two-year seller warranty.

I have not personally bought drives from ServerPartDeals, so I am not going to turn that into a firsthand endorsement. It is simply one of the sellers I would compare based on its specialization, testing process and reputation.

Should You Buy Refurbished Enterprise Drives or New NAS Drives?

There is no automatic winner.

I would compare the actual cost per terabyte.

Suppose you are deciding between:

  • A new NAS drive with a full manufacturer warranty
  • A manufacturer-recertified enterprise drive
  • A seller-refurbished enterprise drive

If the refurbished drive costs 90% as much as new, I am probably buying new.

If it costs roughly half as much and comes from a seller I trust with a meaningful warranty, the decision gets much more interesting.

The lower cost can allow you to buy:

  • More capacity
  • An additional parity drive
  • A complete second backup
  • An off-site backup server

That last option is what changed the calculation for me.

I would rather have multiple copies of my important data on reasonably reliable hardware than spend the entire budget making one copy as expensive as possible.

Refurbished Enterprise Drives Can Be Very Different From NAS Drives

A Seagate Exos, WD Ultrastar or Toshiba MG enterprise drive was designed for a different environment from a typical desktop hard drive.

That can be an advantage.

Enterprise models are designed for heavy workloads and continuous operation.

But they can also be:

  • Louder
  • More noticeable when seeking
  • Higher power consumers
  • Warmer
  • Less pleasant in a NAS sitting beside your desk

I am much less concerned about drive noise in a basement server rack than in a Synology sitting three feet from my bed.

Know where the NAS will live.

Check SATA vs. SAS Before Buying

This is an easy way to buy a very cheap drive that you cannot use.

Enterprise drives are commonly available with either SATA or SAS interfaces.

Most ordinary PCs and consumer NAS boxes expect SATA hard drives.

A SAS drive does not simply plug into a standard SATA controller because the connectors look similar.

If your server has a proper SAS HBA or controller, SAS drives may be excellent options.

If you are putting drives into an ordinary Synology, UGREEN, TerraMaster or consumer motherboard, you probably want SATA unless you know otherwise.

Check before ordering.

Watch for 4Kn vs. 512e Drives

Enterprise storage listings may also identify drives as:

  • 512e
  • 4Kn

These refer to how the drive exposes its sector format to the operating system.

Modern storage systems can often handle 4K sectors, but compatibility can become an issue with older controllers, operating systems and some NAS appliances.

If you do not know whether your hardware supports 4Kn, a 512e SATA model is generally the simpler purchase.

This is another reason not to choose a drive based only on the lowest $/TB number.

What Is SATA Power Disable, and Why Won’t My Refurbished Drive Spin Up?

There is another wonderfully obscure enterprise-drive trap.

Some newer SATA enterprise drives support Power Disable, often called PWDIS.

On those drives, applying 3.3 volts to a particular SATA power pin tells the drive to remain powered off.

Some older desktop power supplies provide 3.3V on that pin even though the system has no idea what Power Disable is.

The result:

You install the perfectly healthy drive and absolutely nothing happens.

ServerPartDeals specifically warns buyers about this and supplies an adapter with some affected drives.

If a newly arrived enterprise SATA drive will not spin up in older hardware, check PWDIS compatibility before declaring the drive dead.

Check CMR vs. SMR Too

For RAID, ZFS and general NAS use, I prefer CMR drives.

SMR—shingled magnetic recording—can provide perfectly useful storage in the right workload, but its write behavior can create complications during sustained writes and array rebuilds.

Most large enterprise data-center drives you are likely to encounter in this market are CMR, but I still verify the exact model number before buying.

Model numbers matter more than marketing names.

Are Helium-Filled Refurbished Hard Drives a Problem?

Not inherently.

Many high-capacity enterprise drives use helium inside the sealed drive enclosure to reduce aerodynamic resistance.

There is nothing automatically wrong with buying one used or recertified.

But I would treat any SMART warning or indication of a sealing problem as a reason to investigate rather than shrugging because the drive appears to work.

Again, this is where buying from a seller with a real return policy is useful.

Should You Put Refurbished Drives in a Primary NAS?

I would consider it, but my standards would be higher.

If I were building a four- or six-drive primary NAS from refurbished enterprise drives, I would want:

  • A reputable source
  • A meaningful warranty
  • Full testing before deployment
  • Redundant storage
  • SMART monitoring
  • Regular scrubs where supported
  • A UPS and graceful shutdown
  • At least one completely separate backup

At that point, a refurbished-drive array can be a perfectly rational way to obtain a lot of capacity.

But if the savings were modest, I would still lean toward new drives for the primary NAS.

Our 2026 guide to the best home NAS systems covers the larger decision between Synology, UGREEN, TerraMaster and building your own NAS.

Refurbished Drives Make Even More Sense for a Backup NAS

This is where I became comfortable with them.

My primary NAS holds the active copy of my files.

I wanted another machine at a different physical location holding another copy.

That changes the risk calculation substantially.

If a drive in the remote backup server fails:

  1. The primary data still exists.
  2. The redundant backup system can identify the failed drive.
  3. I replace the drive.
  4. The backup copy is rebuilt.

That is inconvenient.

It is not a data-loss catastrophe.

Using refurbished enterprise drives allowed me to create more backup capacity for considerably less money than duplicating my primary storage entirely with new NAS drives.

For me, that is a good trade.

RAID Does Not Make Refurbished Drives Safe

This needs to be said every time storage comes up.

RAID is not a backup.

Neither is RAIDZ. Neither is a mirror.

Redundancy can protect you against a drive failure.

It does not automatically protect you against:

  • Accidental deletion
  • Ransomware
  • Filesystem corruption
  • A bad software update
  • Theft
  • Fire
  • Flood
  • Electrical damage
  • Losing the entire NAS

If the data is important, it should exist somewhere else.

This is true whether your drives are five years old or five minutes old.

A New Drive Can Fail Too

Buying new improves some parts of the equation.

You know the drive has not already spent years spinning in somebody else’s server. You usually receive the full original warranty. You have a known ownership history.

What you do not receive is a guarantee that the drive cannot fail.

This is why I do not design storage around predicting which individual disk will live longest.

I design it assuming any disk can eventually fail.

Then the question becomes whether the system survives that failure without losing data.

Don’t Buy All Your Safety in the Hard Drive

Suppose you have $1,000 to spend on storage.

There are situations where:

$1,000 of new drives in one machine

is less useful to me than:

$700 of drives in the primary system plus $300 toward a geographically separate backup.

The exact numbers will vary.

The principle does not.

Storage reliability is a system problem rather than a shopping problem.

You cannot buy a hard drive so expensive that backups become unnecessary.

Don’t Forget Power Protection

A storage server also depends on everything around the drives.

I use UPS battery backup for my NAS and networking equipment. I have experienced an unsafe shutdown during a power outage, and that made me considerably less casual about power protection.

A UPS does not need to operate the NAS all afternoon.

Its most important job may simply be to ride through a brief interruption or give the server enough time to shut down cleanly.

See our guide to the best UPS systems for a NAS and home network closet.

What NAS Software Should You Use With Refurbished Drives?

The drive does not particularly care whether you use TrueNAS, Unraid or OpenMediaVault.

But the storage architecture matters.

I currently use TrueNAS, which gives me ZFS checksums, scrubs, snapshots and redundant pool configurations.

Unraid is especially attractive if you are accumulating drives of different capacities over time. OpenMediaVault provides a lighter Debian-based NAS platform.

We compare all three in our updated guide to the best NAS software for home use.

My Checklist Before Buying a Refurbished Hard Drive

Before clicking Buy, I would check every one of these:

Check Why It Matters
Seller I want a company that specializes in drives and honors returns.
Condition Used, seller refurbished and manufacturer recertified are different.
Warranty Check who provides it and for how long.
SATA or SAS A cheap SAS drive is useless if your system only accepts SATA.
512e or 4Kn Make sure your controller and NAS support the sector format.
CMR or SMR I prefer CMR for NAS and array workloads.
Power Disable Some enterprise SATA drives need an adapter with older power supplies.
Physical size Most enterprise HDDs are 3.5-inch drives.
Noise and power Enterprise drives may be less pleasant in a quiet room.
Price per TB Compare against new-drive sale prices, not MSRP.
Return window You want time to perform a complete test.

What I Would Do When the Drive Arrives

  1. Photograph the packaging if anything looks damaged.
  2. Inspect the connectors and enclosure.
  3. Confirm the model and capacity are what I ordered.
  4. Read the SMART information.
  5. Check the reported power-on hours.
  6. Run an extended SMART test.
  7. Perform a full-surface test.
  8. Check SMART again for new errors.
  9. Only then add the drive to the storage system.
  10. Continue monitoring it after deployment.

A refurbished-drive bargain does not need to be treated like fragile contraband.

It just deserves more scrutiny than a new drive pulled from a sealed retail box.

When I Would Buy New Instead

I would probably buy new when:

  • The price difference is small
  • The NAS will contain the primary copy of important data
  • Noise and power efficiency matter a lot
  • I want the full manufacturer’s warranty
  • I need a particular current-generation model
  • I am building a small system where drives are not a large part of the total budget

A two-bay home NAS with two drives is a different economic problem from a backup server requiring eight large disks.

When I Would Buy Refurbished

I become much more interested when:

  • I need a lot of capacity
  • The savings per terabyte are substantial
  • The drive has a good seller warranty
  • The data is already backed up elsewhere
  • I am building a secondary or off-site NAS
  • I can easily replace and rebuild a failed drive
  • I am comfortable testing and monitoring the hardware

Frequently Asked Questions About Refurbished Hard Drives

Are refurbished hard drives reliable?

They can be. A properly tested refurbished enterprise drive may provide years of additional service, but it has an unknown or partially known prior history and often has substantial power-on time. Buy from a seller with a meaningful testing process and warranty, and design your storage assuming any individual drive can fail.

Are manufacturer-recertified drives better than refurbished drives?

I generally give manufacturer recertification more weight than an undefined seller-refurbished label, but the seller’s testing and warranty still matter. A manufacturer-recertified drive sold with a strong seller warranty may be very attractive.

How many power-on hours are too many for a used hard drive?

There is no universal cutoff. Power-on hours are useful context, but they cannot tell you exactly how much life remains. I would consider the hours together with SMART health, full-surface testing, price, warranty and the role the drive will serve.

Should I buy refurbished drives for TrueNAS?

You can. I would thoroughly test them first, use an appropriate redundant ZFS configuration and maintain an independent backup. TrueNAS cannot make an unreliable disk reliable, but ZFS provides useful integrity checking, scrubbing and redundancy features.

Can I mix new and refurbished drives in a NAS?

Yes, assuming the drives are compatible with your storage layout and hardware. The NAS does not require every disk to have the same ownership history.

Should refurbished drives be used for backups?

I think this is one of their best uses. My own refurbished enterprise drives were purchased for a geographically separate backup system. The important requirement is that the backup drive itself must not become the only copy of the data.

Is a five-year seller warranty the same as a five-year manufacturer warranty?

No. If a reseller promises the warranty, that reseller—not Seagate, Western Digital or Toshiba—may be responsible for replacing the drive. I care about the reputation and longevity of the seller when evaluating that promise.

Can I use a SAS enterprise hard drive in my desktop or NAS?

Usually not unless the system has SAS support. Most consumer motherboards and NAS appliances use SATA. Verify the interface before ordering.

Why won’t my enterprise SATA drive power on?

Some enterprise drives support SATA Power Disable. Older power supplies can apply voltage to the Power Disable pin and keep the drive switched off. An appropriate power adapter or compatible backplane can solve this particular issue.

Are enterprise drives too loud for home use?

They can be noticeably louder than quieter consumer and NAS models, especially during seeks. I have little concern about that in a remote backup server or basement rack, but I would think harder before filling a NAS sitting on my desk with enterprise drives.

Would I Buy Refurbished Hard Drives Again?

Yes.

I would not use that answer as an excuse to buy the cheapest used disk I can find.

What changed my mind was realizing that drive reliability is only one part of data reliability.

I care about:

  • The drive
  • The seller
  • The warranty
  • The testing
  • The storage layout
  • The monitoring
  • The backup
  • Where that backup physically lives

A new hard drive used as the only copy of irreplaceable data is a bad storage plan.

A carefully tested refurbished enterprise drive sitting in a redundant off-site backup system can be part of a very good one.

For me, the attraction is not that refurbished drives are somehow just as good as new drives in every respect.

They aren’t new.

The attraction is that they can make large amounts of redundant storage dramatically more affordable.

When that lower cost allows me to keep another complete copy of my data somewhere else, I am willing to make the trade.

More Home NAS and Storage Guides

Published on July 21, 2024
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A New 4 Bay Network Attached Storage(NAS) Option: The Aoostar Mini PCs

In a previous post, I had mentioned how tempting the Aoostar Mini PC was if I’d needed a 2 bay NAS. I’d wanted a 4 bay NAS. Of course, the 2 bay would be perfect for a remote backup receiving location, over my primary location, where I would want more redundancy. I’ve already ended up with 2 4 bay NAS options, but I’d looked at Aoostar, and they’d promised a 4 bay version at the time. But now, apparently they have it.

It hasn’t made its way to Amazon, where I often link because I don’t like having to wait for things to be drop shipped from the factory, but it is on the manufacturer’s website. If this had been available a few months ago, this would have probably been my purchase. It has the N100 processor I like as a budget low power processor, a good SATA chipset, decent looking ventilation…supports an NVME slot for the drive, 2.5 gigabit LAN…

It is just a lesson, there is always something new around the corner. You can either wait, or get the best available and not sweat the small stuff.

 

Published on July 5, 2024
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This May Be the ODroid You Are Looking For: ODroid H4 Series

In a previous post, I was excited about the arrival of the ODroid H4+. Then I got a bit nervous because of broken SATA connector on the board. For one, the longevity of the product, having never bought anything like this in the ODroid line, and that Ameridroid would make the return difficult. As mentioned, I had no evidence of that, but dealing with returns is stressful at times, and I think I may have imagined the worst based on some of my less pleasant dealings with other companies.

A few conclusions about the ODroid H4+…The Type 4 NAS case and the positioning of the SATA ports puts too much stress on the SATA cables. You need to buy the ODroid cables because I can’t find anyone else who sells the exact same power cables, as power for the drives comes off the board. I opted to switch to this thinner set of bundled cables. There is a right angle version, but I’m not sure, due the positioning of the ports, if you could place this without straining the ports, which after what happened, I’m a bit worried up. But the thinner cabling does seem to strain less.

Thinking about this for the future, I also had gotten a Jonsbo N2 and put a mini ITX board in it. That feels a lot more robust than the ODroid’s metal sheet case, but it also takes up a lot more room.

As I write this, I’m running tests on some drives I bought to place in it, and then I will work on deployment. You can see below how tiny this thing is, but the fact that the hard drives are providing the structural support makes me wonder about its longevity. I would have felt better it there had been some corner brackets. Also, there are no dust shields around the ports, and the bottom is open. So it could accumulate a lot of dust.

The ODroid line is popular, and if you look, all of these cases for the H4 line and its predecessor, the H3 line have this scratchbuilt in a garage feel to them. But, just because something has that look and feel doesn’t mean it is bad. I would recommend this as a server.

 

ODroid H4+ in a Type 4 Case
Published on June 18, 2024
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