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Best NAS for home use in 2026 comparing Synology, UGREEN and TerraMaster NAS systems
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Best NAS for Home Use in 2026: Synology, UGREEN, TerraMaster or DIY?

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Product links may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

I built my own NAS. That does not mean I think you should.

My current NAS runs TrueNAS on a low-power Intel N100-based system. I like having complete control over the hardware and software, and I like knowing that if I want to change something later, I am not waiting for a NAS manufacturer to decide whether I am allowed to do it.

But building a NAS also means owning the problems. You choose the hardware. You install the operating system. You troubleshoot it. You decide how backups work. When something breaks, there is no single company responsible for the whole box.

If a friend asked me what NAS to buy for a house today, I would probably send them toward a prebuilt NAS instead. Pre-built means all you do is install hard drives.

The interesting part in 2026 is that Synology is no longer the only obvious answer. UGREEN and TerraMaster now sell boxes with considerably more aggressive hardware, faster networking and surprisingly capable processors. For a while, I owned a QNAP. Meanwhile, building your own NAS remains attractive if you actually want the flexibility rather than simply wanting somewhere safe to store your files.

Quick Answer: The Best Home NAS in 2026

NAS Best For Why I Like It My Take
Synology DS925+ Most homes 4 bays, DSM, dual 2.5GbE, expandable memory Safest recommendation
UGREEN DXP4800 Plus Best hardware value 10GbE, 2.5GbE, Intel CPU, 8GB DDR5, 2 NVMe slots Very compelling alternative to Synology
TerraMaster F4-425 Pro Power users and media Intel N350, 16GB RAM, dual 5GbE, 3 NVMe slots A lot of hardware in a 4-bay box
Synology DS225+ Simple 2-bay NAS DSM, 2.5GbE, compact and easy to manage Good first NAS
Build Your Own + TrueNAS Maximum control Choose your own CPU, RAM, networking, case and drives What I use

If I wanted the easiest recommendation for most people:

Check the Synology DS925+ diskless on Amazon

If I cared more about getting the most hardware for my money, I would look very closely at the UGREEN DXP4800 Plus.

Best NAS for Most People: Synology DS925+

Synology remains the easiest NAS company for me to recommend to someone who wants storage to behave like an appliance.

That is what I always wanted from my NAS. I enjoy building computers, but once storage is running, I want it to sit quietly in a corner and serve files.

The Synology DS925+ is a four-bay NAS built around an AMD Ryzen V1500B processor with four cores and eight threads. It comes with 4GB of ECC memory and can be expanded to 32GB.

There are two 2.5GbE Ethernet ports and two M.2 NVMe slots that can be used for caching or storage pools with compatible SSDs.

Four drive bays are also a sweet spot for a home NAS.

Two bays work, but they limit your choices. With four drives you can build an array that provides redundancy while retaining substantially more capacity. Four bays also give you room to grow without jumping into a large, expensive box.

The reason I would buy Synology, however, is DSM. DSM is Synology’s software platform.

The hardware specifications are no longer particularly exciting compared with UGREEN and TerraMaster. You are buying a mature storage platform with integrated backup, snapshots, file sharing, photo management, remote access and a large application ecosystem.

I would buy the DS925+ for: someone who wants a NAS to be reliable infrastructure rather than another hobby.

I would skip it for: someone who wants the most CPU, RAM and network bandwidth possible for the money, or someone who enjoys replacing the manufacturer’s software with their own.

Check the Synology DS925+ on Amazon

Synology Backed Away From Its Worst Hard-Drive Restriction

There is an important update if you followed the controversy around Synology’s 2025 NAS models.

Synology initially became much more restrictive about which drives could be used with its newer DiskStation Plus systems. That was a serious strike against the platform for me. A NAS is a box whose main purpose is holding hard drives. I do not want the manufacturer unnecessarily narrowing my choices.

With DSM 7.3, Synology loosened that policy.

Current 2025-model DiskStation Plus systems including the DS925+ can create storage pools using non-validated third-party 3.5-inch hard drives and 2.5-inch SATA SSDs. Synology still recommends checking its compatibility list, and restrictions remain around some features such as M.2 storage pools.

You can read Synology’s current drive compatibility policy here.

I still prefer completely open hardware, but this makes the DS925+ considerably easier to recommend.

Best Hardware for the Money: UGREEN NASync DXP4800 Plus

The UGREEN NASync DXP4800 Plus is the NAS that makes the Synology hardware look conservative.

It has:

  • Four SATA drive bays
  • Intel Pentium Gold 8505 processor with five cores and six threads
  • 8GB DDR5 RAM, expandable to 64GB
  • One 10GbE Ethernet port
  • One 2.5GbE Ethernet port
  • Two M.2 NVMe slots
  • HDMI output
  • Intel Quick Sync support for compatible hardware transcoding

That is a remarkable amount of hardware for a four-bay NAS.

The 10GbE port is especially interesting if you regularly move large files. I recently wrote about 2.5GbE versus 10GbE for a home network, and a NAS is one of the places where 10GbE can actually make sense. Large backups, video files and bulk transfers can use bandwidth that ordinary web browsing never will.

You still need the rest of the network to keep up. A 10GbE port on a NAS does not magically make a gigabit switch or a slow hard drive ten times faster.

UGREEN also officially supports third-party drives from manufacturers including Western Digital, Seagate and Toshiba.

The tradeoff is software.

UGREEN has put substantial development into UGOS Pro, but Synology has been building DSM for a long time. If I were buying a NAS primarily because I wanted the most polished turnkey storage experience, I would still lean Synology.

If I were looking at the specifications and thinking about Docker, media serving, 10GbE and other home-lab uses, the DXP4800 Plus becomes extremely appealing.

I would buy it for: a technically comfortable home user who wants stronger hardware and 10GbE without building an entire NAS.

I would skip it for: someone whose highest priority is having the longest-established NAS software ecosystem.

Check the UGREEN DXP4800 Plus on Amazon

Best Power-User 4-Bay NAS: TerraMaster F4-425 Pro

The TerraMaster F4-425 Pro may be the most interesting hardware configuration in this group.

The N350 version comes with:

  • Intel N350 eight-core processor
  • 16GB RAM
  • Four SATA drive bays
  • Three M.2 NVMe slots
  • Two 5GbE Ethernet ports
  • Hardware 4K transcoding support
  • HDMI output

Three NVMe slots in a four-bay NAS is unusually generous. So is shipping it with 16GB of memory.

The dual 5GbE ports are also an interesting compromise. Most houses do not have 10GbE everywhere, and 5GbE can provide considerably more bandwidth than 2.5GbE without pushing every component toward 10GbE.

TerraMaster runs its TOS operating system. TOS 7 has continued to add backup, security and application features, and the hardware provides enough resources for Docker and media workloads.

Again, my hesitation compared with Synology is not the box. It is whether I value the extra hardware more than Synology’s software ecosystem.

I would buy it for: someone who wants a prebuilt enclosure but thinks like a home-lab user.

I would skip it for: someone who wants the simplest possible NAS experience and does not care about 5GbE, extra RAM or multiple NVMe slots.

Check the TerraMaster F4-425 Pro on Amazon

Best Simple 2-Bay NAS: Synology DS225+

Some people do not need four drives.

If the goal is a central place for photos, documents, computer backups and a modest media collection, the Synology DS225+ is much easier to justify.

It has two drive bays, an Intel Celeron J4125 processor, 2GB of memory, one 2.5GbE port and one 1GbE port.

For a two-drive NAS, the obvious configuration is usually a mirror: two drives containing the same data. If one fails, the other remains.

The downside is capacity efficiency. Two 4TB drives mirrored together give you approximately one drive’s worth of usable capacity rather than 8TB of protected storage.

That is the price of redundancy.

If you already think you will eventually need more than one mirrored pair, I would spend the money on four bays at the beginning. Replacing the entire NAS later is usually more annoying than buying a little extra room today.

I would buy it for: backups, photos, documents and ordinary home storage where two bays are enough.

I would skip it for: anyone who is already thinking about a large Plex library, several users, surveillance storage or substantial future expansion.

Check the Synology DS225+ diskless on Amazon

Should You Buy a NAS With the Drives Already Installed?

Amazon also sells some of these systems bundled with drives.

That can be appealing. If part of the reason you are buying a Synology is that you do not want to build your own NAS, having someone else choose the drives is consistent with that goal.

But I would compare the numbers before clicking Buy, especially now with the price of hard drives having gone up in recent years.

For example, we found a DS925+ bundle with four 12TB Seagate IronWolf drives. That gives you 48TB of raw disk capacity without separately shopping for four drives.

A four-drive RAID configuration will not give you all 48TB as usable protected storage. With one drive’s capacity devoted to parity, you are looking at roughly 36TB before filesystem and formatting overhead. Using two-drive fault tolerance reduces usable capacity further.

The alternative is straightforward:

  1. Buy the DS925+ diskless.
  2. Buy four NAS hard drives yourself.
  3. Compare the combined price with the preloaded bundle.

Installing hard drives in a NAS is not much of a build. You slide the drives into the trays, install them and let the NAS initialize the array.

So I would happily buy a preloaded bundle if the premium were small. I would not pay a huge premium merely to avoid putting four drives into four trays.

There is also a DS225+ bundle with two 4TB IronWolf drives for someone who wants a smaller ready-to-go system.

Which Hard Drives Would I Buy?

I would use NAS-rated CMR hard drives for the main storage array.

Two current choices I would consider are WD Red Plus and Seagate IronWolf Pro.

WD Red Plus 12TB: My Home NAS Choice

The WD Red Plus 12TB is the drive I would start with for an ordinary home NAS.

WD Red Plus drives use CMR recording and are designed specifically for RAID-equipped NAS systems. The line carries a three-year limited warranty.

Check the WD Red Plus 12TB on Amazon

Seagate IronWolf Pro 12TB: The Step-Up Drive

The Seagate IronWolf Pro 12TB is a higher-end option.

The ST12000NE0008 is a 7200RPM NAS drive with a five-year limited warranty. Seagate also includes its Rescue Data Recovery Services with the IronWolf Pro line.

For a normal household NAS, I would compare the current price against WD Red Plus before paying extra. For heavier workloads or where the longer warranty has value, the Pro is easier to justify.

Check the IronWolf Pro 12TB on Amazon

When Four Bays Aren’t Enough

Four bays are enough for a lot of households, including mine for many years.

If you already know you need more, buy the larger enclosure now. I went with 5 bays and am now looking to expand.

UGREEN’s DXP8800 Plus provides eight SATA bays, two M.2 NVMe slots, an Intel Core i5-1235U processor and dual 10GbE Ethernet ports.

That is the one I would look at for a serious home media archive, content-creation storage or a home lab where four drives already feel restrictive.

Check the UGREEN DXP8800 Plus on Amazon

And then there are systems like the TerraMaster T12-500 Pro.

This is a 12-bay NAS with an Intel Core i7-1255U, 16GB DDR5 memory, two 10GbE ports and two M.2 NVMe slots.

It is impressive hardware. It is also far beyond what I would recommend to someone who simply wants family backups and a photo library.

If you need twelve drives, you probably already know why.

Should You Build Your Own NAS?

I did.

I have built storage servers before, used commercial NAS products and eventually returned to a homebuilt system. My current machine runs TrueNAS on low-power Intel hardware.

I like the flexibility.

If the motherboard dies, I can replace it. If I want faster networking, I can change it. If I want more RAM, a different case or another operating system, I am not limited by what a NAS vendor decided to expose.

TrueNAS also gives me ZFS, snapshots and a storage-first operating system that fits how I want the machine to behave.

I wrote about that decision in TrueNAS vs. Unraid vs. OpenMediaVault.

There is a cost to all that freedom: your time.

If you enjoy choosing motherboards, SATA controllers, cases, power supplies and software, building a NAS can be rewarding.

If your real objective is to back up your family photos and stop worrying about storage, buying a Synology makes a great deal of sense.

Build your own if:

  • You enjoy maintaining hardware
  • You want complete control over the operating system
  • You need unusual drive or networking configurations
  • You want to reuse existing hardware
  • You care about avoiding vendor lock-in

Buy a prebuilt NAS if:

  • You want one company responsible for the hardware and operating system
  • You value simple updates and administration
  • You want storage to disappear into the background
  • You have better things to do than troubleshoot a storage server on Sunday afternoon

If you want to see how I got here, start with my Building My NAS series.

How Many NAS Bays Do You Need?

This may be the most important purchasing decision.

Two Bays

Best for simple household storage, backups and smaller photo or media collections.

A mirrored two-drive configuration is easy to understand, but expansion is limited. When you need more capacity, you usually replace the drives with larger ones.

Four Bays

This is where I would start for most serious home NAS purchases.

You get much better choices around redundancy, capacity and expansion without turning the NAS into a giant machine.

The DS925+, DXP4800 Plus and F4-425 Pro all live here for a reason.

Eight Bays

An eight-bay unit makes sense if you have a large media collection, video-production files, extensive backups or already know four drives will not be enough.

The DXP8800 Plus is the step-up option in this guide.

Twelve Bays

This is specialized territory for a home user. If you can explain exactly what you are going to put on twelve hard drives, great. Otherwise, I would rather buy fewer larger drives in a smaller NAS.

RAID Is Not a Backup

This is worth repeating every time I write about storage.

A RAID array can protect you from a hard-drive failure. It does not protect you from everything else.

If you accidentally delete a folder, ransomware encrypts your files, the NAS is stolen, the house floods or something destroys the entire machine, having another copy of the data matters much more than how clever your RAID configuration was.

I use redundant backups rather than trusting the primary NAS as the only copy.

I have even experimented with refurbished enterprise hard drives for secondary backup systems. I am more comfortable taking that risk on an additional redundant copy than on the primary storage array.

For anything you genuinely care about, I would aim for multiple copies with at least one copy physically separate from the NAS.

Don’t Forget the UPS

A NAS is one of the devices I care most about shutting down cleanly.

I have experienced an unsafe shutdown during a power outage, and I have also had a UPS battery fail when I expected it to protect my equipment.

That is why I would budget for a UPS as part of the NAS purchase rather than as an optional accessory sometime later.

If the NAS lives with your router, switches, PoE cameras and other network equipment, see my guide to the best UPS for a home network closet, NAS and PoE equipment.

If you are only protecting a smaller networking configuration, I also have a guide to the best UPS for a router and modem.

What NAS Would I Buy Today?

If I were buying for a family member who wanted a NAS and did not want a new hobby, I would buy the Synology DS925+.

Four bays provide enough flexibility for most homes, DSM is mature, 2.5GbE is appropriate for a modern home network, and Synology’s decision to restore broader third-party hard-drive support removed one of my biggest objections.

Check the DS925+ diskless on Amazon

If I were buying for myself and wanted a prebuilt unit, the decision becomes harder.

The UGREEN DXP4800 Plus gives me 10GbE, more RAM and an Intel processor with Quick Sync.

The TerraMaster F4-425 Pro goes further with 16GB of memory, dual 5GbE and three NVMe slots.

Both tempt me because I like hardware.

And then I remember why I built my own NAS in the first place.

For most people, though, that last sentence is probably a warning rather than a recommendation.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best NAS for home use in 2026?

For most people, I would choose the Synology DS925+. It provides four drive bays, dual 2.5GbE networking and Synology’s mature DSM software. Buyers who prioritize hardware specifications should also consider the UGREEN DXP4800 Plus and TerraMaster F4-425 Pro.

Is a 2-bay or 4-bay NAS better?

A two-bay NAS is sufficient for basic backups and storage. A four-bay NAS gives you much more flexibility for redundancy, capacity and future expansion. If you expect your storage needs to grow, I would start with four bays.

Is Synology still worth buying?

Yes. Synology hardware is often less aggressive than competing systems from UGREEN and TerraMaster, but DSM remains a major reason to buy a Synology NAS. DSM 7.3 also restored support for creating storage pools with many non-validated third-party hard drives on 2025 DiskStation models.

Is UGREEN NAS better than Synology?

UGREEN currently offers stronger hardware specifications at several price points, particularly around processors, memory and networking. Synology’s advantage is its mature DSM software ecosystem. Which is better depends on whether you value hardware capability or a more established turnkey NAS platform.

Should I build a TrueNAS server instead of buying a NAS?

Build a TrueNAS server if you want control over the hardware and software and are comfortable maintaining it yourself. Buy a prebuilt NAS if you want a simpler appliance with one vendor responsible for the platform. Even people who are capable of building and maintaining a server may opt to let someone else handle those details.

How much storage do I need in a home NAS?

Estimate how much data you have today, include the devices you plan to back up, then leave substantial room for growth. Remember that RAID redundancy reduces usable capacity. Four 12TB drives do not normally provide 48TB of protected usable storage.

Do I need NAS-specific hard drives?

I prefer NAS-rated CMR drives for a primary NAS because they are designed for continuous operation in multi-drive enclosures. WD Red Plus and Seagate IronWolf Pro are two current examples.

Published on August 16, 2026
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How to Choose a UPS: AVR, PFC, USB Shutdown, and Battery Backup Features

Buying a UPS sounds like it should be simple. Pick a battery backup, plug in the important stuff, and stop worrying about power outages.

Unfortunately, UPS shopping gets weird quickly. Some models are meant for routers and modems. Some are better for desktops. Some are designed for active PFC power supplies. Some can tell a NAS or home server to shut down cleanly. Some have replaceable batteries. Some are basically disposable power strips with a battery inside.

The right UPS depends less on the brand name and more on what you are trying to protect.

People buying power strips don’t think that much about them. But not only are UPSes designed to protect your devices, they are designed to keep them running during a power outage. How do you pick the right combination of features and price? In a previous post, I talked about how a problem with my UPS could have caused disaster.

Quick Answer: What UPS Features Actually Matter?

The most important UPS features are enough battery capacity for your load, automatic voltage regulation, replaceable batteries, surge protection, and a USB or network data connection if you need a computer, NAS, or home server to shut down cleanly. For modern desktop PCs and some servers, you may also want a UPS designed for active PFC power supplies.

Feature Why It Matters Who Needs It Most
Enough VA/watt capacity The UPS has to handle the devices plugged into it Everyone
Automatic Voltage Regulation Helps smooth brownouts and voltage dips without switching to battery Areas with unstable power
Replaceable battery Lets you replace the battery instead of throwing out the UPS Anyone keeping a UPS for years
USB/data port Allows clean shutdown for a NAS, desktop, or home server NAS, homelab, desktop PC users
Active PFC compatibility Helps avoid problems with modern PC/server power supplies Desktops, workstations, some servers
LCD/status display Shows load, runtime, voltage, and battery condition Useful, not always essential

APC vs. CyberPower: Which UPS Brand Should You Choose?

APC and CyberPower are the two consumer UPS brands most people run into first. I have used both. Neither is perfect, and I would not make the decision on brand alone.

For basic protection, either brand can be a big improvement over plugging important equipment straight into the wall. The better question is whether the specific model has the features your setup needs: enough capacity, replaceable battery, USB shutdown support, AVR, and the right waveform/PFC support for the devices you are protecting.

In recent years, I have mostly bought CyberPower units because the feature mix has worked well for my networking equipment and homelab gear. That does not mean every CyberPower model is the right model, or that APC is wrong. It means you should compare the actual unit, not just the logo.

AVR, PFC, and Cleaner Power: What These UPS Features Mean

The UPS feature list can look like alphabet soup, but a few features are worth understanding.

  • AVR, or Automatic Voltage Regulation: AVR helps correct voltage dips or surges without immediately switching to battery. That can matter if your power flickers, sags, or runs a little unstable.
  • PFC, or Power Factor Correction: Many modern computer power supplies use active PFC. If you are protecting a desktop PC, workstation, or server, make sure the UPS is compatible with that kind of load.
  • USB or data port: This lets a NAS, desktop, or home server know when the UPS is on battery so it can shut down safely before the battery dies.
  • Replaceable battery: UPS batteries wear out. If the battery cannot be replaced, the whole unit becomes a future e-waste project.
  • LCD/status display: Not essential, but useful for seeing load, runtime, battery condition, and voltage at a glance.

Choose the UPS Based on What You Are Protecting

A router, a NAS, and a desktop gaming PC do not need the same UPS.

Use Case What Matters Most What I’d Prioritize
Router and modem Long runtime at low power draw Efficient UPS, enough outlets, simple status monitoring
NAS Clean shutdown and uptime during short outages USB data connection, replaceable battery, enough runtime
Home server Graceful shutdown and stable power USB/network shutdown, AVR, PFC compatibility
Desktop PC Avoid sudden shutdowns Enough watt capacity, PFC compatibility, AVR
Security or smart-home gear Keeping monitoring online Runtime, router/modem backup, simple alerts

If your goal is mainly to keep the internet online during an outage, see my more specific guide to the best UPS for router and modem backup.

UPS Models I’d Consider

For a fuller-featured CyberPower unit, I would look at the CyberPower CP1000PFCLED or a similar model in that family. The reason to choose this tier is not just bigger battery capacity. It is the feature set: AVR, active PFC support, replaceable battery, data port, and LCD status display.

That kind of UPS makes more sense for a desktop, homelab server, NAS setup, or anything where a clean shutdown matters.

For lighter networking gear, the CyberPower EC650LCD can make more sense. It still has useful features like an LCD screen, replaceable battery, and data port, but it is better suited to lower-power equipment such as networking devices, small accessories, or a simpler monitoring setup.

I use the less expensive model for some of my networking equipment and the fuller-featured one for my homelab server. That split is the real lesson: do not buy one UPS model for every job just because it is familiar.

My Minimum UPS Requirements

For anything I expect to keep using for years, I want at least two things:

  • A replaceable battery: UPS batteries are consumables. If the battery cannot be replaced, the UPS has a built-in expiration date.
  • A data port: If the UPS is protecting a computer, NAS, or server, it should be able to tell that device when it is running on battery so the system can shut down cleanly.

For simple router/modem backup, the data port may matter less. For a NAS or home server, it matters a lot.

AVR and PFC support are not always mandatory, but they become much more important as the equipment gets more expensive or sensitive.

UPS Backup For Home Monitoring Systems

If you are using smart-home gear to monitor a second home, vacation home, cameras, leak sensors, or smoke/CO alerts, the router and modem become part of the safety system. If the network dies, the alerts may stop reaching you.

That does not mean every sensor needs a huge UPS. It does mean your modem, router, network switch, and possibly your camera/NVR setup deserve backup power.

For the broader monitoring setup, see my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

Choosing the Right UPS

A UPS is not just a bigger power strip. It is part battery, part surge protector, part power conditioner, and sometimes part shutdown controller.

The right choice depends on what you are protecting. A router needs runtime. A NAS needs clean shutdown. A desktop needs enough capacity and PFC compatibility. A home monitoring setup needs the network to stay online long enough to send alerts.

Buy for the job, not just the brand.

Published on March 19, 2026
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Home NAS server with drive bays and network cables, illustrating TrueNAS vs Unraid vs OpenMediaVault NAS software
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TrueNAS vs Unraid vs OpenMediaVault: Choosing NAS Software

I have gone through a lot of evolution of computer technology over the years, not only the technology, but my thinking. I remember my first server, which doubled as a NAS. It was a yellow full tower server system and had wheels . Why yellow? It was really inexpensive. But it was also really overbuilt for what I needed. I never filled all the bays and I never used it to its full capacity. And technology changed. I started building smaller, rather than overbuilding. I’ve gone from desktop, to laptop, to small PC, to mini PC, which is an evolution conversation in itself.

When my home built NAS died in the middle of the night some years ago, I ran to the store and bought a commercial NAS, because I was at the point in my life where I didn’t want to deal with another home build. So I went with a NAS and then a dedicated home server next to the NAS. And that was partly because the commercial NAS software was limiting and the manufacturer has stopped updating my model, but also because the hardware in NASes is always behind what you can get if you build it yourself. So, by investing in a NAS case, a motherboard, and using open-source, I can in future swap out the motherboard, upgrade the RAM, etc and continue…provided I keep to the same software platform.The lifespan is much longer.

I could run all my applications on the NAS, especially with the new hardware, but I want something that acts like an appliance…something that only is storage and storage related functions. I don’t want to clutter it with other things, even though it means another system to run server functions. Last time, I installed Linux and configured it. But there is software to make a computer a dedicated appliance, so it eliminated all the work I had to do to get everything working.

Quick Answer: Which NAS Software Should You Choose?

For a homebuilt NAS, the best software depends on what you want the box to do. I chose TrueNAS because I wanted a storage-first appliance with ZFS and a strong focus on data integrity. Unraid is often better if you want flexibility with mixed drive sizes and an easier app/server experience. OpenMediaVault is a good free option if you want something lighter and more traditional without paying for Unraid.

NAS Software Best For Main Tradeoff
TrueNAS Storage-first NAS, ZFS, data integrity, snapshots Less flexible with mismatched drives and can feel more appliance-like
Unraid Mixed drive sizes, easy expansion, apps, home-server flexibility Commercial license and a different storage model than traditional RAID/ZFS
OpenMediaVault Free, lightweight NAS setup on standard Linux May require more tinkering depending on plugins and use case

There are three popular options for NAS software…TrueNAS, Unraid, and OpenMediaVault.

TrueNAS has a commercial and a community version. It comes in the classic Core version, based on FreeBSD and the newer Linux based Scale. I get the impression impression Scale is the future for the project. Scale allows for containers and virtual machines if you want to run your applications on top of it. For the drives, it offers ZFS and the ability to deploy object storage similar to Amazon’s S3. ZFS is an incredibly robust filesystem.

Unraid, by comparison, is also commercially supported, with a license cost of $49 to $249, which includes the software. The most expensive membership at $249 is lifetime, which means updates for life, and the others offer updates for a year with a fee to upgrade after that. Even with no updates, some security patches are still offered for the older versions. The advantage of Unraid is it can manage drives that vary in size, speed, brand, and filesystem…so no RAID technology. Instead, it uses a dedicated parity drive, and offers a cache drive for speed.

Openmediavault is somewhere closer to Unraid in its simplicity, but has no commercial cost. It seems to be in the middle of the option here and can veer toward the Unraid feature set or the TrueNAS ones.

I ended up with TrueNAS, because I wanted the features it offered for data storage.

That choice also fits how I separate my setup: the NAS should mostly be storage, while other services can live on separate server hardware. For the networking side of that build, see my guide to 2.5G vs 10G Ethernet for a home network.

I’ll be talking more about that, but setting it up took more time to restore my data than it did to set it up. It is now handling 100% of the file serving the previous server did. I still have backup and other redundancy functions to configure, but I’m 100% back online.

Published on May 31, 2024
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