Category: Smart Home

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Early Prime Day Ring and Blink Camera Deals: Are They Actually Worth It?

Amazon is already offering early Prime Day deals on Ring and Blink cameras. That makes sense. Amazon owns both brands, and smart-home cameras are exactly the kind of product that gets pushed hard during Prime Day.

But the better question is not whether a Ring or Blink camera is on sale.

The better question is whether the deal is actually worth buying once you include subscriptions, recording limits, local storage, battery life, and what you want the camera to do.

Prime Day 2026 runs from June 23 through June 26, but early deals are already appearing. If you are looking at a discounted Ring doorbell, Blink Outdoor camera, Blink floodlight camera, or Ring outdoor camera, this is the moment to slow down before clicking buy.

Quick Answer: Are Early Prime Day Ring and Blink Camera Deals Worth It?

Ring and Blink camera deals can be worth it if you want an easy, inexpensive camera system and understand the subscription tradeoffs. Blink is usually the better budget choice if you want some local recording options. Ring is usually better if you already use Ring devices, want a polished app experience, or care more about convenience than avoiding a subscription.

The key difference is recording. Blink has a local-storage path through Sync Module hardware, using USB storage with Sync Module 2 or microSD storage with Sync Module XR. Ring cameras can still be used without a subscription for some basic features, but recorded video history and saved clips generally require a Ring Protect plan.

Choice	Best For	Main Tradeoff
Blink	Budget camera setups, simple monitoring, some local storage options	Less polished and more limited than higher-end systems
Ring	Easy doorbell/camera setup, polished app, existing Ring households	Recording and many useful features require a subscription
Local-first alternatives	People who dislike subscriptions or want more control	More setup, more decisions, less “just works” convenience

Why Ring and Blink Deals Are Complicated

A discounted smart camera is not just a camera purchase. It is often a system decision.

The camera itself may be cheap. The ongoing plan may not be. That does not automatically make Ring or Blink a bad deal. It does mean the sale price is only part of the math.

Before buying, ask yourself:

Do I need recorded clips, or only live view?
Do I want to avoid monthly subscriptions?
Do I already use Alexa, Ring, or Blink devices?
Is this for a primary home, vacation home, garage, or rental property?
Do I need indoor cameras, outdoor cameras, a doorbell, or all of them?
Do I care about local storage?
Do I want the easiest setup, or the most control?

Those answers matter more than the sale badge.

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. If you buy through these links, Gadget Wisdom may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

Blink Cameras: The Budget-Friendly Option

Blink is usually the more budget-friendly Amazon camera brand.

That does not mean Blink is always better. It means Blink tends to make more sense if you want basic cameras at a lower hardware cost and are willing to live with a simpler system.

The biggest advantage is that Blink has a local-storage path. With compatible Blink cameras and the right Sync Module, you can save clips locally to USB or microSD storage instead of relying only on cloud recording. That makes Blink more interesting for people who do not want another monthly subscription.

That said, local storage is not the same thing as a full professional camera system. You are still buying an inexpensive consumer camera setup. The app, features, and responsiveness may not satisfy someone who wants a serious local NVR or advanced smart-home integration.

Blink Deals I Would Check First

If I were looking at early Prime Day Blink deals, I would focus on outdoor cameras, doorbells, and bundles that include the hardware needed for the setup I actually want.

You can see the current Blink camera and doorbell deals on Amazon.

Blink Outdoor 2K Plus — the first Blink deal I would check if you want a multi-camera outdoor setup.
Blink Outdoor XR — worth comparing if range or outdoor placement is the main issue.
Blink Wired Floodlight Camera — a better fit for a driveway, garage, side yard, or exterior area where lighting matters.
Blink Battery Doorbell — useful if you want a lower-cost doorbell camera and do not want to depend on existing wiring.
Blink Wired Doorbell — worth comparing if you already have doorbell wiring and want to avoid battery charging.

For Blink, pay close attention to the bundle. A deal that includes the right Sync Module or multiple cameras may be more useful than the lowest-priced single camera.

Ring Cameras: Easy, Polished, And Subscription-Heavy

Ring is the better-known brand, especially for video doorbells.

The Ring app is polished. Setup is easy. The doorbells and cameras are mainstream enough that many people already understand them. If you want a simple consumer security-camera setup and do not mind paying for Ring Protect, Ring can be a very reasonable choice.

The subscription is the catch.

Without a Ring Protect plan, you can still use certain basic features. But if you want recorded video history, saved clips, and many of the features people expect from a security camera, assume the subscription is part of the real cost.

Ring Deals I Would Check First

If I were looking at Ring deals, I would start with the doorbell and outdoor-camera deals. Ring makes the most sense when you want simple setup, an easy app, and you are comfortable with the subscription model.

You can see the current Ring camera and doorbell deals on Amazon.

Ring Battery Doorbell — the most obvious Ring product to consider if you want a simple doorbell camera.
Ring Outdoor Camera — useful if you already use Ring and want outdoor coverage in the same app.
Ring Doorbell deal — compare carefully against the Battery Doorbell and make sure you know which model and bundle you are buying.

If you are starting from zero and want to avoid subscriptions, Ring is a harder sell. If you already use Ring Protect and want another device in the same app, the deals may make more sense.

Ring vs. Blink: Which One Should You Buy?

I would choose based on what you are trying to avoid.

If you are trying to avoid subscriptions, start by looking at Blink or a local-first alternative. Blink is not a perfect no-subscription system, but it at least gives you a local-storage path with the right hardware.

If you are trying to avoid complexity, Ring may be the better choice. Ring is simple, familiar, and polished. The tradeoff is that you should assume the subscription is part of the real cost if recording matters to you.

Situation	Better Fit	Why
You want the cheapest multi-camera setup	Blink	Lower hardware cost and useful bundles
You want a polished doorbell camera	Ring	Strong app experience and mature ecosystem
You want recording without a monthly plan	Blink or local-first alternative	Ring recording depends heavily on Ring Protect
You already use Ring Protect	Ring	Adding more Ring devices may be simpler
You want a serious local camera system	Neither	Look at PoE cameras, NVRs, or local smart-home setups

When I Would Skip Ring And Blink

I would skip both Ring and Blink if your main goal is a serious local security-camera setup.

There are other systems that offer more local control, better continuous recording options, higher camera quality, local NVR support, or better integration with platforms like Home Assistant. Those systems are more work. They are also less dependent on a company subscription plan.

That is the tradeoff.

Ring and Blink are easy. Easy has value. But easy often means you are accepting the company’s app, cloud, subscription, and feature limits.

If you want a camera system for a vacation home, rental property, garage, or primary home and you mostly care about quick alerts, Ring or Blink may be fine. If you want long-term local recording and full control, they may be the wrong place to start.

Are These Good For A Vacation Home?

Ring and Blink can both be useful for a vacation home, but I would not treat cameras as the entire monitoring plan.

Cameras can show you doors, driveways, garages, decks, or outdoor activity. They do not tell you everything. A camera will not detect a hidden water leak, a freezing pipe, a humidity problem, or whether your router went offline unless you build the rest of the system around it.

If the camera is part of a broader second-home setup, think about:

router and modem backup power
water leak sensors
temperature and humidity sensors
door and window sensors
smoke and carbon monoxide alerts
whether someone can respond if an alert comes in

For the broader setup, see my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

How To Judge An Early Prime Day Camera Deal

Do not judge the deal only by the percent off.

Before buying, check:

Is this the current model? Older models can still be good, but the discount should reflect that.
Is the Sync Module included? This matters for Blink local storage and multi-camera setups.
How many cameras are in the bundle? Some deals look similar but include different quantities.
Does it require a subscription for what you want? This is especially important with Ring.
Is it battery-powered, wired, or plug-in? Battery cameras are easier to place but require battery management.
Will Wi-Fi reach the camera location? A cheap outdoor camera is not useful if the signal is weak.
What happens if the internet goes down? Cloud-dependent cameras may lose much of their usefulness.

A good deal is not just a lower price. It is the right hardware for the way you plan to use it.

My Take

If I were buying during the early Prime Day sale, I would look at Blink first for budget outdoor cameras and places where local storage matters.

I would look at Ring first for a simple doorbell camera or a household that already uses Ring Protect and wants everything in one app.

I would not buy either one expecting a professional local camera system. That is not what these are.

These are easy consumer cameras. If the sale price is good and the subscription/storage tradeoff matches what you want, they can be worth buying. If you are only buying because the deal looks big, slow down and do the subscription math first.

Early Prime Day Ring and Blink Deals To Check

Published on June 5, 2026

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Door and Window Sensors for a Vacation Home: What to Monitor First

Door and window sensors are usually sold as security devices, hooked to alarm systems.

That is true, but when integrated into broader systems, they can do much more. For a vacation home, a door sensor is not just there to tell you someone broke in. It can tell you that a cleaner arrived, a contractor left, a guest forgot to close the back door, a garage entry door is still open, or a window is unsecured while you are hours away.

That makes door and window sensors for a vacation home less about building a security system and more about solving a simple problem: you are not there to see whether the house is secured.

Quick Answer: Where Should You Put Door and Window Sensors in a Vacation Home?

The first door and window sensors in a vacation home should go on the entry points most likely to be used, forgotten, or vulnerable: main entry doors, garage doors, basement entrances, sliding doors, and windows that are easy to access or commonly left open. If the home has guests, cleaners, contractors, or seasonal use, sensors can also help confirm that people came and went when expected.

Location	Why It Matters	Priority
Main entry door	Most common entry point	High
Garage entry door	Often forgotten or left unsecured	High
Sliding door	Easy to leave unlocked or partly open	High
Basement or side entrance	Less visible both inside and outside the house	High
Accessible windows	Useful for ground-floor or deck-level openings	Medium
Rarely opened upper windows	Usually less urgent unless they are often left open	Low

Why Door Sensors Matter When Nobody Is There

While these same ideas apply at home, in your primary residence, you usually notice if a door is open for too long. You feel the draft. You hear the alarm. You see the light. You walk past it.

In a vacation home, none of that helps if you are not there. You need more help and might prioritize investment there over a place you are at more often.

A door left open for a few minutes may not matter. A door left open overnight, during a storm, during freezing weather, or between guest stays is a different problem. It can mean water, animals, theft risk, heating or cooling loss, or just the unpleasant discovery that the house was not secured when you thought it was.

Door sensors are useful because they answer a basic question:

Is the house closed when it is supposed to be closed?

That sounds boring. It is also exactly the kind of thing you want to know from far away.

The First Doors To Monitor

You could put a sensor on everything. But thatg can get cost-prohibitive. Start with the doors that actually matter.

Main Entry Door

The main entry door is the obvious first sensor. It tells you when someone arrives, when someone leaves, and whether the door is still open after it should have closed.

If you use the home yourself, this may not seem pressing to know who opens and closes it. If cleaners, guests, relatives, or contractors use the property, it becomes much more useful.

Garage Door And Garage Entry Door

Garages are easy to overlook because they are not always treated like part of the living space. But a garage can contain tools, stored items, mechanical equipment, access to the house, or vulnerable plumbing, not to mention an actual car.

If the garage has a person-door into the house, monitor that too. It is often not as secured as your front door. A garage door sensor tells you whether the garage is open. A door sensor on the interior garage entry tells you whether someone entered the home from the garage.

Sliding Doors

Sliding doors are worth monitoring because they are easy to leave slightly open and easy to forget about, especially on decks, patios, and lake or mountain houses where people are constantly going in and out. They also, because of their design, are a weak point should someone try to break them to enter.

They are also common access points for guests, kids, cleaners, and anyone using outdoor space.

Basement, Side, And Utility Entrances

These doors may be less visible, which makes them more important. A basement or side door can be left open without anyone noticing from the street or main living area.

If there is a door you would not see from the front of a building, it probably deserves a sensor.

Which Windows Are Worth Monitoring?

Window sensors are useful, but you should again, be selective.

Not every window needs a sensor. If a second-floor window is rarely opened and not realistically accessible, it may not be the first priority. If a ground-floor bedroom window is often opened, faces a deck, or is easy to reach, that is different.

I would prioritize:

ground-floor windows
windows near decks or porches
basement windows
windows often opened by guests
windows in rooms that are easy to forget
windows near valuable equipment or storage

The goal is not to make a perfect diagram of every opening. The goal is to catch the openings most likely to matter.

Vacation Rental vs. Private Second Home

The right sensor setup depends on how the property is used.

For a private second home, door and window sensors are mostly about peace of mind and early warning. You want to know whether something changed while you were away.

For a vacation rental, the situation is more complicated. You may want to know when cleaners arrive, when guests check in, whether a door is left open, or whether someone entered a utility area they should not be using. But you also need to think about guest privacy and disclosure.

Privacy

Outdoor cameras and entry sensors are usually easier to justify than indoor cameras. Door sensors can provide useful operational information without recording people inside the home. You also have occupancy sensors, which detect if someone is in a space without any more details.

That is one reason I like sensors for this job. They tell you what happened without turning the house into a surveillance project.

Sensors vs. Cameras

Cameras and sensors answer different questions.

Device	What It Tells You	Limitation
Door sensor	A door opened, closed, or stayed open	Does not show who did it
Window sensor	A window opened, closed, or was left open	Only covers that window
Presence Sensor	Someone is in a space	Accuracy can be limited
Camera	Who or what is visible in the camera view	Can miss activity outside its angle and can raise privacy issues
Smart lock	Lock status, entry codes, and access history	Does not always prove the door is physically closed

A smart lock can tell you the lock is engaged. A door sensor can tell you whether the door is closed. A presence sensor can tell you if someone is occupying a space. Those are not always the same thing.

For a vacation home, I like the combination: smart lock for access, door sensor for open/closed status, a presence sensor to specifically identify individuals in strategic spaces and exterior camera for context.

What Kind of Door and Window Sensors Should You Buy?

I would not start with the fanciest sensor/ I would start with sensors that fit the smart-home system you already use and are reliable enough to place on the doors that matter.

If you already use a platform like Home Assistant, it can combine sensors from multiple systems. Whether you use Ring, Aqara, YoLink, SmartThings or another smart-home system, compatibility matters more than brand loyalty. A sensor that sends alerts through the system you actually check is more useful than a technically better sensor that lives in an app you ignore.

For a basic setup, look for:

reliable open/close alerts
good battery life
low-battery warnings
support for your existing hub or app
enough range for garages, basements, or detached spaces
an alert history so you can see when someone came and went

For long-range or detached spaces, systems like YoLink-style sensors can be interesting. For Home Assistant or Zigbee setups, Aqara offers a popular budget item. For alarm-system users, the best answer may be to use the sensors that tie into the monitored system you already have.

What Alerts Should Actually Notify You?

The biggest mistake with smart-home alerts is sending yourself too many of them.

If every door opening sends a push notification, you will eventually stop caring. That is especially true if guests, cleaners, or contractors are using the property.

Start by making a list of things you want to know, and when you want to log them, or get alerted.

Useful Immediate Alerts

a door opens when nobody is expected to be there
a door remains open for more than a few minutes
a garage door is still open at night
a basement or side door opens unexpectedly
a window opens while the home is supposed to be empty

Useful Logged Events

cleaner arrived
cleaner left
contractor entered
guest checked in
guest checked out

Not everything needs to buzz your phone immediately. Some information is useful as history. Some information is urgent.

The trick is knowing the difference.

What To Do When A Sensor Goes Off

A sensor alert is only useful if it connects to a response.

If a door opens unexpectedly, you may check a camera. If a door stays open, you may call a guest, cleaner, neighbor, or property manager. If a window opens while the house is empty, you may need someone to inspect the property.

Before relying on sensors, decide who can act:

a neighbor with a key
a local property manager
a cleaner or caretaker
a family member nearby
a contractor who already has access
local emergency services if there is a real security issue

The point is not to know about a problem faster and then stare helplessly at your phone. The point is to know early enough that someone can do something.

How Door And Window Sensors Fit Into A Vacation Home Monitoring Setup

Door and window sensors are one aspect of monitoring.

They do not replace leak sensors, temperature sensors, smoke and carbon monoxide alerts, cameras, or backup power for your network. They answer a different question: whether the house is physically open or closed when you are not there.

For the broader system, see my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

If you are still building the rest of the setup, these are the other pieces I would think about:

The Bottom Line On Door And Window Sensors For Vacation Homes

Door and window sensors are not the most glamorous smart-home devices. That is part of their appeal.

They answer simple, practical questions: Did someone open the door? Did they close it? Is the garage still open? Is that window unsecured? Did the cleaner come and go? Did a contractor enter the house?

For a vacation home, those small bits of information can matter a lot. You are not trying to watch everything. You are trying to know when something important changed.

Start with the doors people actually use, the windows most likely to be left open, and the entry points you would worry about if you were not there for a week.

Frequently Asked Questions About Door and Window Sensors for a Vacation Home

Where should I put door sensors in a vacation home?

Start with the main entry door, garage entry door, sliding doors, basement entrances, side doors, and any door commonly used by guests, cleaners, contractors, or family members.

Do I need window sensors on every window?

No. Prioritize ground-floor windows, basement windows, windows near decks or porches, and windows that are often opened or easy to forget. You can assess based on how hard/easy it is to access that window from the outside.

Are door sensors better than cameras?

They do different jobs. Door sensors tell you whether a door opened or stayed open. Cameras show visual context. For a vacation home, the best setup may use both, especially at exterior entrances.

Can door sensors tell me if a guest or cleaner arrived?

Yes. Door sensors can show when an entry door opened and closed. If paired with smart locks or access codes, they can be part of a useful guest, cleaner, or contractor access log.

What should happen if a door sensor goes off while I am away?

Have a response plan before the alert happens. That may mean checking a camera, calling a guest or cleaner, contacting a neighbor, or asking a property manager to inspect the house.

Published on June 1, 2026

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From a Garage Door Opener to DIY Weather Network

Many years ago, I started down a path that eventually led to my building and operation my own weather stations. Disney all started with a mouse, but my weather stations all began with a garage door that didn’t work properly.

It Started with a Garage Door Opener

When my garage door opener repeatedly failed, I decided to replace it with a model that had better range. For just a few dollars more, I could get one with smart capabilities. Why not? I thought—it would be nice to know whether I’d left it open. I later dropped that solution for an open alternative maintaining the same functionality.

After sharing this information with the other people in the building, one day, in the winter, I was outside shoveling snow, and got a phone call. The person on the other end of the phone told me they knew I must be home because they got an alert that the garage door had opened and closed. I told them I was outside, and they’d know that if there was a camera. I installed my first IP based camera the following week.

From Cameras to Weather Stations

Not long after, another neighbor—snowbirding in Florida—called me to say they were using the camera to check the weather at home. I joked that if I set up a weather station, they’d get even more accurate information.

Fast-forward, I now run three weather stations in three different counties, all running WeeWx. Every time I show someone what I’ve built, they want one too.

Expanding the Weather Stations

Over the years, I’ve added sensors and refined my stations. Most recently, I standardized all three with AirGradient air quality sensors. I had first installed one during the Canadian wildfires, when smoke spread across the northeastern U.S.

Unfortunately, one sensor started reporting “apocalyptic” levels of dust—clearly wrong. After forcing a restart, it began reporting zero. Another failure. Luckily, I’d bought a spare particulate sensor, since they have only a three-year shelf life.

Moments like this raise two questions for me:

Is it time to upgrade while I’m fixing something anyway?
How do I better monitor these systems so I know when they are failing?

I have this same problem with anything I built. I’ve talked before about Uptime Kuma, which I use to make sure servers are up. However, Uptime Kuma does not deal with sensors not reporting data, or reporting insanely wrong data. I think I need another solution for that.

But in the meantime, what about upgrades? I went to the WeeWx database for ideas on what their default schema stores. I currently track:

Temperature
Humidity
UV
Lightning Strikes
PM1, PM2.5, and PM10
CO2
VOC
NOx
Rain
Barometric Pressure

But there are prebuilt fields in WeeWx for:

Hail
Snow
Lead
Ozone
Sulfur Dioxide
Noise
Ammonia
Nitrogen Dioxide
Cloud Cover

There is a line between important statistics and gathering as much data as possible. Some of these, like ozone, are useful for urban air quality. Others, like snow still lack good consumer hardware.

For now, my temporary workaround is an simple snow gauge(a metal pole in the ground), planted outside within view of one of my outdoor cameras.

Reliability and Redundancy Challenges

A faulty sensor isn’t the only problem I’ve run into. I’ve had *Acurite Atlas sensors fail completely*, and those are much harder to repair. This raises more questions:

Should I install redundant temperature and humidity sensors for accuracy and reliability?
Can I create alerts for insane values (like volcanic dust levels) or for when sensors stop reporting entirely?
How do I best design fallback logic without sacrificing accuracy?

I already use Uptime Kuma to monitor whether servers are up, but it doesn’t flag incorrect or missing sensor data. Building alerts for bad sensor values is a different challenge.

What is Next For My Weather Network?

What began with a broken garage door opener has grown into a DIY weather network. As I expand, I face a balancing act: deciding which data is truly valuable, keeping sensors reliable, and planning upgrades smartly.

Every failure teaches me something new—about both the technology and the importance of monitoring the monitors themselves. The fun of DIY weather tracking as a hobby isn’t just in gathering data and using it; it’s in continually improving how that data is collected, validated, and shared

Published on September 30, 2025

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How to Use Home Automation Scenes for Smarter Routines

What Are Home Automation Scenes?

One of the classic concepts in home automation is the scene. A scene is a preset that updates the states of multiple devices at once, saving you from juggling switches and apps.

Think of a theater scene: the television powers on, your speakers adjust to the right volume, the shades close, and the lights dim. One command, everything set.

Scenes are powerful—but designing them takes planning. Here’s how to think about scenes in any other automation platform.

Why Home Automation Scene Planning Is Tricky

Planning automations is one of the hardest parts of a smart home setup. You need to figure out:

The trigger (time, motion, button, or voice)
The devices involved
The desired states

Home Assistant, like many platforms, makes this a little easier: you can set your devices the way you want them, then capture those states into a scene. Later, you can resume them all with a single action.

It sounds simple, but when you have dozens of lights, locks, and plugs, execution can be complicated.

Everyday Home Automation Scenes Worth Creating

You don’t have to start with complex routines. A few simple scenes can transform your daily life:

Dusk – Turn on outside lights, close blinds, and set indoor lighting levels.
Dawn – Open blinds, turn off night lights, start the coffee maker.
Good Night – Shut off lights, lock the doors, enable security devices.
Wake Up – Gradually raise lights, play morning music, and turn on smart plugs.

The real value comes when you think about what you do every single day—and automate that.

My Example: The Good Night Home Automation Scene

Here’s what happens when I activate my Good Night scene:

Turn on the noise machine to drown out background noises
Turn off bedroom lights
Turn off lights in other rooms
Check whether the apartment door is locked

Instead of walking through my home flipping switches and checking locks, one tap (or a voice command) takes care of everything.

Home Automation Scenes Make Smart Homes Actually Smart

Scenes aren’t just a convenience—they’re the glue that makes a smart home feel intelligent. By grouping devices into routines like dawn, dusk, and good night, you replace dozens of manual actions with a single one.

Yes, automation planning is personal. Everyone’s home and habits are different. But with a little thought, you can design scenes that fit your life perfectly. And once you do, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without them.

Published on September 25, 2025

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Best Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors in 2026: 6 Picks

Updated August 2026

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Product links may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Smoke detectors are one of those products most people ignore until one starts chirping in the middle of the night. Then you discover that the alarm on your ceiling may be ten years old, the battery may not be replaceable, and the replacement choices are much more complicated than they look.

I recently went through exactly that problem when one of my hardwired alarms reached the end of its life. That sent me back into the current smoke-alarm market, which has changed considerably.

You can now choose between hardwired alarms with 10-year backup batteries, battery-only combination units, voice alerts, wired interconnection, phone notifications, Ring integration and smart alarms designed to replace Google Nest Protect.

Quick answer: If I needed a conventional hardwired smoke and carbon monoxide alarm today, I would start with the Kidde 30CUA10-V. If I did not have hardwired power, I would choose the Kidde 30CUD10-V. For remote notifications, I would choose between the Kidde Ring Smart Smoke + CO Alarm and the First Alert SC5, depending on which smart-home ecosystem I wanted to use.

Model	Power	Detection	Best For	Buy
Kidde 30CUA10-V	Hardwired + 10-year backup	Smoke + CO	Best overall hardwired choice	Check price
First Alert SMICO105-AC	Hardwired + 10-year backup	Smoke + CO	First Alert/BRK wired systems	Check price
Kidde 20SA10-V	Hardwired + 10-year backup	Smoke only	Homes with separate CO detection	Check price
Kidde 30CUD10-V	Sealed 10-year battery	Smoke + CO	Best choice without hardwired power	Check price
Kidde RGCUAR-RW	Hardwired + AA backup	Smoke + CO	Ring users and remote alerts	Check price
First Alert SC5 / SMCO600NV	Battery powered	Smoke + CO	Google Home and Nest Protect replacement	Check price

First, Figure Out What You Are Replacing

Before ordering anything, take one of your existing alarms down and read the label on the back.

Write down:

The manufacturer
The model number
The manufacture date
Whether it is hardwired or battery-only
Whether there is an interconnect wire
Whether it detects smoke only or smoke and carbon monoxide

If you have a hardwired interconnected system, this is particularly important. You should not assume that an alarm from another manufacturer—or even every alarm from the same manufacturer—can simply be mixed into the existing interconnect network.

Check the replacement alarm’s compatibility documentation before buying a houseful of them.

Best Overall Hardwired Smoke and CO Alarm: Kidde 30CUA10-V

The Kidde 30CUA10-V is the conventional alarm I would start with for a new hardwired installation.

It combines smoke and carbon monoxide detection in one unit, runs from house power, includes a 10-year backup battery and provides voice alerts. It can also use the hardwired interconnect so compatible Kidde alarms throughout the house sound together.

The 10-year backup battery is especially appealing. A hardwired alarm still needs backup power when utility power is out, but there is no 9-volt battery to remember to change every year.

Voice alerts are another feature I like. Instead of receiving only a generic siren, the alarm can announce whether the warning is for fire or carbon monoxide.

I would buy it for: a hardwired home where I want combination smoke and CO protection, wired interconnection, voice alerts and no routine backup-battery changes.

Check the Kidde 30CUA10-V on Amazon

Best First Alert Hardwired Replacement: SMICO105-AC

If your house already uses compatible First Alert or BRK hardwired alarms, the First Alert SMICO105-AC may be the more natural replacement.

It is a hardwired combination smoke and CO alarm with a 10-year battery backup and wired interconnect support. First Alert also uses a quick-connect plug intended to simplify replacement in compatible installations.

This is an important point when replacing alarms: the “best” alarm on paper is not always the best replacement for the wiring already in your ceiling.

If I already had a house full of compatible First Alert or BRK alarms, I would strongly prefer staying within the approved interconnect family rather than changing brands one detector at a time.

I would buy it for: an existing compatible First Alert or BRK hardwired system where I want a modern combination alarm and 10-year backup battery.

Check the First Alert SMICO105-AC on Amazon

Best Hardwired Smoke-Only Alarm: Kidde 20SA10-V

You do not necessarily need every detector in the house to contain a carbon monoxide sensor.

If your home already has appropriate separate CO detection, the Kidde 20SA10-V gives you the same basic hardwired approach in a smoke-only alarm.

It includes a 10-year backup battery, voice alerts and hardwired interconnection with compatible Kidde alarms.

This can make sense in a larger house where combination smoke/CO alarms are installed in the locations that need CO protection while additional smoke-only alarms provide the required fire coverage elsewhere.

Follow your local fire and building requirements when deciding where smoke and CO alarms are required.

I would buy it for: additional hardwired smoke protection in a compatible Kidde system where carbon monoxide detection is already provided separately.

Check the Kidde 20SA10-V on Amazon

Best 10-Year Battery Smoke and CO Alarm: Kidde 30CUD10-V

Many houses do not have electrical wiring at every smoke-alarm location. The building I live in was built in the 1970s and originally had no hardwired power for the detectors, so I understand the problem.

If you are not opening ceilings and running new electrical wiring, the Kidde 30CUD10-V is the simplest choice in this group.

It combines smoke and CO detection with a sealed 10-year battery and voice alerts. There is no annual battery replacement and no electrical connection to install.

The tradeoff is that this model does not give you the wired interconnection of the hardwired Kidde models above.

If your alarm reaches the end of its service life, you replace the entire alarm. That may sound wasteful until you remember that smoke alarms themselves are not lifetime devices.

I learned that lesson when one of my own sealed-battery alarms started chirping and could not be fixed with a battery change. I wrote about the experience in Why Your Smoke Detector Keeps Chirping After You Change the Battery.

I would buy it for: a location without hardwired alarm power where I want a simple combination smoke/CO alarm without routine battery replacement.

Check the Kidde 30CUD10-V on Amazon

Best Smart Smoke Detector for Ring: Kidde RGCUAR-RW

The Kidde RGCUAR-RW solves a problem I complained about in the earlier version of this article: getting modern hardwired smoke and CO detection with useful wireless connectivity.

This model is hardwired, uses two AA batteries for backup and integrates directly with the Ring app. It can send notifications for smoke, carbon monoxide and low battery conditions when you are away from home. Kidde says another Ring device is not required.

That makes it particularly interesting for a vacation home, rental property or any house that sits empty for stretches of time.

A local alarm is designed to warn people inside the building. A remote notification gives you a chance to learn about a problem when nobody is there to hear it.

I would not buy a smart smoke detector solely because it is smart. The core job is still detecting smoke and CO and sounding an alarm. But if I already use Ring and want remote fire-safety notifications, this is a much more compelling product than trying to bolt a separate smart-home relay onto the interconnect wire.

I would buy it for: a hardwired home where Ring is already part of the monitoring system, especially a second home or property that is sometimes unoccupied.

Check the Kidde Ring Smart Smoke + CO Alarm on Amazon

For the rest of the second-home monitoring problem, see my guide to vacation-home remote monitoring.

Best Nest Protect Replacement: First Alert SC5

Google Nest Protect created a loyal following because it combined smoke and CO detection, voice warnings, interconnected alarms and phone notifications in a polished product.

The current First Alert SC5 is particularly interesting because First Alert designed it to work with and replace Nest Protect.

The battery model linked here is model SMCO600NV. It combines photoelectric smoke detection and electrochemical CO detection with voice and location alerts, Wi-Fi connectivity, mobile notifications and wireless interconnection with compatible alarms.

First Alert says it can work alongside Nest Protect through Google Home, which makes it the obvious model to investigate if an aging Nest Protect needs replacement.

Unlike the sealed 10-year Kidde battery model above, the SC5 battery model uses replaceable lithium batteries. Its appeal is the connected feature set rather than never having to replace a battery.

I would buy it for: someone replacing Nest Protect or building a smart smoke/CO system around Google Home and First Alert.

Check the First Alert SC5 on Amazon

Hardwired or Battery?

If the house already has hardwired smoke-alarm power, I would normally continue using it. Hardwired alarms receive normal power from the house and use their battery as backup.

If wiring is not already available, a 10-year sealed-battery alarm avoids the electrical work and eliminates routine battery changes.

Situation	What I Would Choose
Existing hardwired alarm network	Compatible hardwired replacement
No wiring at the alarm location	10-year battery model
Existing First Alert/BRK interconnected system	Compatible First Alert/BRK model
Existing Kidde interconnected system	Compatible Kidde model
Want Ring notifications	Kidde Ring Smart alarm
Replacing Nest Protect	First Alert SC5

Why Interconnected Smoke Alarms Matter

Interconnection means that when one alarm detects a problem, compatible alarms elsewhere in the house sound too.

That is particularly useful in a larger or multi-story home. A fire beginning in a basement, garage area or distant bedroom should not depend on someone upstairs hearing one alarm through several closed doors.

Interconnection can be wired or wireless, depending on the product.

The important word is compatible. Do not assume that every alarm with an interconnect feature can communicate with every other alarm.

What Changed With Newer Smoke Alarms?

Smoke-alarm standards continue to evolve. Current UL requirements include tests intended to improve detection of modern fires while reducing nuisance alarms caused by cooking.

That is useful because nuisance alarms create their own safety problem: people sometimes disable an alarm that goes off too often and then forget to restore it.

If I am replacing a ten-year-old alarm today, I would buy a current model from a major manufacturer rather than searching for an identical decade-old model simply because the old mounting plate looks familiar.

You can read more about the newer smoke-alarm requirements from UL Solutions.

How Many Smoke Alarms Do You Need?

The National Fire Protection Association recommends smoke alarms inside every sleeping room, outside each separate sleeping area and on every level of the home, including the basement.

Carbon-monoxide requirements depend on the home and local code, so check your state and local rules as well as the manufacturer’s instructions.

More expensive combination alarms can simplify a system, but buying one combination smoke/CO alarm does not automatically mean you have enough alarms for the entire house.

See the NFPA smoke-alarm guidance when planning locations.

How Often Should You Test a Smoke Detector?

Use the alarm’s test button at least once a month. NFPA and CPSC both recommend regular monthly testing.

A status light is not a substitute for pressing the test button. The point of the test is to verify that the alarm responds.

This is also why I would not assume a detector is healthy merely because it has not started chirping.

If you are trying to diagnose an existing detector, read what to do when a smoke detector keeps chirping after a battery change.

When Should You Replace a Smoke Alarm?

NFPA recommends replacing smoke alarms when they are 10 years old, measured from the manufacture date. An alarm that fails its test should be replaced sooner.

Combination smoke and CO alarms can have model-specific service lives, so check the label and manufacturer’s instructions.

When one old detector reaches end of life, check the dates on the rest of the alarms in the house. If they were all installed together, the others may be approaching replacement at the same time.

My Buying Decision

If I were installing a conventional hardwired system today, the Kidde 30CUA10-V would be my first choice from this group.

If the house already had a compatible First Alert/BRK interconnect network, I would choose the SMICO105-AC instead of changing ecosystems without a reason.

Without hardwired power, I like the simplicity of the Kidde 30CUD10-V.

For a property where remote notifications are important, I would choose the smart ecosystem first: Kidde with Ring or First Alert SC5 with Google Home.

Whichever model you choose, check the date on the existing alarms before ordering. A chirping detector may be telling you that one battery needs attention. It may also be telling you that the entire generation of alarms in your house is ready for replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best smoke and carbon monoxide detector?

For a conventional hardwired home, I like the Kidde 30CUA10-V because it combines smoke and CO detection, a 10-year backup battery, voice alerts and hardwired interconnection. The best replacement can change if your house already has a compatible First Alert, BRK or Kidde interconnected system.

Should I buy separate smoke and CO detectors or a combination alarm?

Combination alarms simplify installation and reduce the number of devices on the ceiling or wall. Separate alarms can make sense where you need additional smoke detection but already have adequate carbon-monoxide coverage. Follow local requirements for both types of detection.

Are 10-year smoke detector batteries really good for 10 years?

Sealed long-life alarms are designed so the battery does not require routine replacement during the alarm’s service life. The alarm should still be tested regularly, and a unit that fails testing or reaches its specified end of life should be replaced.

Can I replace a hardwired smoke detector with any brand?

Do not assume so. Hardwired alarms may use different electrical connectors and interconnect requirements. Check the replacement model’s compatibility information before mixing alarms or changing brands.

What is the best smart smoke detector after Nest Protect?

The First Alert SC5 is specifically designed to work with and replace Google Nest Protect and supports Google Home. The Kidde Ring Smart Smoke + CO Alarm is a strong alternative for households built around Ring.

Do smart smoke alarms still work if the internet goes down?

The alarm itself is designed to provide local smoke and CO warnings independently of a phone notification. Internet connectivity is used for remote smart features, so do not treat an app alert as a replacement for properly installed local alarms.

How often should I test smoke alarms?

Test smoke alarms at least once a month using the test button. Replace an alarm that does not respond properly.

How old is too old for a smoke detector?

NFPA recommends replacing smoke alarms when they reach 10 years from the manufacture date. Check combination smoke/CO alarms for the model-specific replacement interval printed on the device or in its instructions.

Published on September 15, 2025

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Smart Smoke Detectors in 2025: Safer Batteries, Fewer False Alarms, and Better Placement

At the end of the day, smoke detectors are one of the most essential pieces of home safety technology. But the old mantra—“check your smoke detector batteries when you change the clocks”—no longer applies.

Today’s devices have changed. You can now buy smoke detectors with 10-year sealed batteries that don’t need annual replacement. If your current alarm won’t stop chirping, it may actually be reaching the end of its 10-year lifespan. Here’s what that means and how to fix it. Many also combine smoke and carbon monoxide detection. When I install a smoke detector, I always write the installation date on it. That way, I know exactly when it will no longer be safe to keep using it, whether it seems to be working or not.

The New Standards and Why They Matter

The detection technology has also improved. In 2024, the latest revision of the U.S. smoke detector standard came into effect.

Nothing is more frustrating than a smoke alarm blaring while you’re cooking. The new standard helps cut down on nuisance alarms in the kitchen.

For context, in 2016 the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) tested 45 alarms against the 2016 requirements—and none of them passed. So it’s a good thing that new battery-operated detectors last a decade. After that, it’s best to replace them entirely.

Types of Smoke Detectors

There are two basic types of smoke detectors:

Photoelectric – Detects smoke using light
Ionization – Detects smoke when particles interfere with ionized air

Most fire safety experts recommend having both types in your home—or choosing a dual-sensor unit that covers both.

Where to Place Smoke Detectors

Placement is just as important as type. Fire safety guidelines recommend:

Inside every bedroom
Outside each sleeping area
On every level of the home

You can also interconnect your smoke detectors so that when one goes off, they all go off. This is easy to do in new construction but trickier in older homes. Some brands now offer wireless interconnects, even for battery-powered units.

In New York City, where I live, code requires smoke detectors within 15 feet of bedroom entrances, but only newer buildings require them inside bedrooms.

Making Smoke Detectors Smarter

For my renovation, I hardwired a smoke detector and added the Zooz Long Range DC Signal Sensor, which is wired into the interconnect port. This setup can notify me of whenever a detector is triggered. It also lets me extend alerts to my smart speakers, phone, security system, even a siren if needed. It means even though my detectors aren’t smart themselves, I still get smart notifications.

Why Not Wi-Fi Smoke Detectors?

You can buy Wi-Fi–enabled smoke detectors that connect directly to apps, but I’ve always felt there are issues with this.

Lock into a particular manufacturer’s system, requiring yet another custom app for each system.
Lack of integration operations

I prefer to integrate detection into my existing local control systems. That way, I avoid installing yet another app, and I still get reliable alerts when something happens.

A Safer, Smarter Approach to Fire Safety

Smoke detectors have come a long way in the last decade—from 10-year batteries* and dual-sensor technology to new standards that reduce false alarms. By combining the right hardware with smart integrations, you can make sure your home is both safer and less frustrating to live in.

At the end of the day, your smoke detectors should do one thing well: warn you when it matters most. Taking the time to plan placement, choose the right type, and add smart notifications makes that mission even more reliable.

Published on September 14, 2025

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POE Cameras and Frigate NVR: Why I Switched to Local Home Surveillance

During my recent renovation, I added two additional cameras to my new space, at the two points of ingress. This was something of a departure as these were also the first Power Over Ethernet(POE) cameras I’ve had installed, as I had someone on-site available who could run the cables cleanly.

I’ve tried a variety of ecosystems for cameras, both for myself and others. Many of them push you toward subscription-based cloud services, which features like video history, motion detection, and notifications only work fully if you pay monthly. Some of them barely provide any features without paying, despite the fact you bought the device. Even when offering local options, this is often storage with a microSD card in the camera, which is clunky, slow, and unreliable.

That is why I decided to go with a network video recorder. A server that takes the feeds from all the cameras and stores the recordings. You can buy commercial NVRs you can purchase and install in your house, including some that integrate with the specific hardware cameras you bought, but I wanted a solution that aligned with my philosophy of self-hosted, privacy first smart home tech.

So I chose Frigate.

Quick Answer: Why Use POE Cameras With Frigate?

POE cameras and Frigate make sense if you want a local home-surveillance system that does not depend on a cloud subscription. Power Over Ethernet cameras are more reliable than Wi-Fi cameras, and Frigate can record video, detect people, cars, animals, and other objects, and let you tune alerts around the parts of your property you actually care about.

Choice	Why It Matters
POE cameras	More reliable than Wi-Fi cameras and powered through the network cable
Frigate NVR	Local recording and object detection without relying on a cloud camera plan
Detection zones	Reduce false alerts from sidewalks, streets, neighbors, or passing cars
Self-hosted storage	Keeps recordings under your control instead of inside a camera company’s subscription
Frigate+	Optional model improvements without turning the whole system into a traditional cloud lock-in product

Why Frigate?

Frigate is an open-source NVR designed for real-time object detection all running on local hardware. It is deeply customizable and can be tuned to only record what matters to you – people, cars, or animals, depending on what zones and filters you decide.

For example, one of my outdoor cameras flagged every pedestrian across the street, which is well outside of the zone I am concerned about. I can narrow the zone to only my property, to dramatically reduce noise in footage and alerts.

Frigate recently added:

facial recognition
license plate recognition.
View-only user roles for shared access

Everything is processed locally, with no cloud dependency.

Frigate+: Smarter Detection, Optional Subscription

To improve detection, you can also subscribe to Frigate+, a $50/year subscription which offers better trained models for detection. These are trained by other users of Frigate. You can participate by submitting false positives and other information voluntarily. If you cancel, you get to keep the downloaded models, you just stop getting updates.

This helps support the developers and doesn’t lock you into a traditional subscription model.

Frigate Notifications

One gap in the core Frigate setup is the lack of built-in robust multi-platform notifications. That’s where another piece of software, Frigate-Notify, comes in. It offers all of the notification options I might want.

Rich notifications
Cross-platform delivery including mobile, desktop, and messaging apps
Fully customizable

Next Steps For My Frigate NVR

Inspired by how well the new system is performing, I plan to replace more of my older Wi-Fi cameras with wired POE models for improved reliability. Wired cameras streaming directly to my NVR reduces lag, improves reliability, and gives me full control over recording, storage, and alerts—without the cloud.

If you’re tired of cloud lock-in and unreliable Wi-Fi cams, and you want a privacy-respecting, smarter surveillance system, Frigate + POE may be the combo you’ve been looking for.

Published on September 8, 2025

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Designing a B-Mode: How I’m Building Fail-Safe Smart Home Devices with ESPHome

In a previous post, I discussed migrating to ESPHome for my smart devices. That initial migration was pretty straightforward—flashing firmware, configuring YAML, and getting basic functionality running.

But now I’ve started refining things. ESPHome isn’t just about turning things on and off. It’s about designing smarter devices—devices that don’t just rely on a central hub, but can think for themselves when they need to.

Dawn-Dusk Automation

The first item I built using ESPHome was dawn to dusk lighting control. ESPHome makes this possible with its sun component, which calculates sunrise and sunset time based on provided latitude and longitude.

To make that work, you need a time source. The most popular one is getting it from Home Assistant, but you can also use:

An NTP server, for independence from your Home Assistant instance, but still requiring a local or remote time server.
RTC Hardware Clocks for full independence

Switches and Manual Overrides

Next, I added a templated switch. These aren’t tied to physical hardware and control logic on the device (e.g. enable/disable the dawn-dusk logic).

This gives me some flexibility. For my style of planning,I want any automations running on device to be something that can be disabled if from Home Assistant, which has more capabilities. Simple logic runs locally, but still is controlled by the larger brain.

Important External States for Smarter On-Device Logic

ESPHome allows you to import the state of external entities into your device. Most commonly, you would sync states from Home Assistant, but there is a more powerful alternative in the packet transport component.

This component lets you import the state of sensors to be shared directly ESPHome device to ESPHome Device without a server in between. Even if a server crashes, the system still works, even if the functionality may be limited.

Designing for Failure: My “B-Mode” Smart Home

Resilence is something I prefer to prioritize. Inspired by Disney theme park ride design, I’ve incorporated what I call “B-Mode”.

In Disney-speak, A-Mode is full, ideal operation. B-Mode is what happens when something breaks—so the show can go on, just in a simplified form.

In my design, B-Mode is:

Smart lights that fall back to dawn-dusk mode if Home Assistant is unreachable
Ability to enable/disable on-device automations by communicating directly with the device
Direct Connections between devices to keep key functions running locally
Physical Buttons that Always Work, even if the connection is down

And the key: none of this happens by accident. You have to plan for outages and decide what should keep working in your design. ESPHome gives you the tools.

? Final Thought

Your smart home shouldn’t break just because your server does.

With ESPHome, you can build resilience into every device—whether it’s a light switch, a plug, or a sensor. Start simple. Add layers. Think about what matters when things fail.

That’s what B-Mode is all about.

Published on August 29, 2025

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Tasmota vs ESPHome: Why I’m Moving My Smart Home Devices

I have been running smart light switches for a while, and using the Tasmota firmware on them. Let’s be clear, Tasmota is a great piece of software. It’s reliable, open-source, packed with features, and in many cases, works right out of the box.

But over time, I found myself chafing at the limits.

Tasmota, for all its strength, is kind of like a Swiss Army knife. It is not always the most efficient or most effective for your needs. You either need to use its limited syntax, or rely on external systems.

So, recently I’ve been migrating a lot of my lights and plugs over to ESPHome, a platform I was already using for sensors.

Quick Answer: Tasmota vs ESPHome

Tasmota is still a great choice if you want reliable open-source firmware that works quickly, has a web interface, and supports a wide range of devices. ESPHome is better when you want tighter Home Assistant integration, custom YAML configuration, and device-specific logic that runs locally on the device.

Feature	Tasmota	ESPHome
Best for	Quick firmware replacement with lots of built-in features	Custom Home Assistant-focused smart home devices
Configuration	Web UI, templates, commands, rules	YAML files compiled into custom firmware
Local device logic	Possible, but more limited	Strong for buttons, timers, sensors, and device-specific behavior
Learning curve	Easier to start	More setup, but more control
My use case	Still useful for simple devices	Better for my more customized lights, plugs, and sensors

Why I’m Moving to ESPHome

ESPHome is more modular and streamlined than Tasmota. You don’t flash a generic firmware – you compile a custom one. The configuration of the device is set in YAML, a text format, you define exactly what the device needs. What sensors or relays are connected, how buttons behave, what actions they trigger, and more.

Want a web interface? That’s a component.
Need to calculate sunrise and sunset for dawn/dusk functionality?
Need to sync to an NTP time server for that dawn/dusk?
Want two ESPHome devices to talk to each other independently?
Track bluetooth devices?
Communicate over a VPN?

There are components for all of these. I was able to fine-tune the behavior of each smart switch and plug, beyond what I could do in Tasmota. I installed dawn to dusk programs on external lights. I tied a light into a remote motion sensor, also running ESPHome to activate a hallway light. I even built countdown switches that automatically turn off after a set period of time.

Why ESPHome Feels Better For Local Smart Home Control

One of the major advantages of Home Assistant is local control. Both Tasmota and ESPHome allow for some logic on device, but with Tasmota that logic is very limited. You don’t have to rely on Home Assistant or Node Red to create automations.

That said, not all logic belongs on-device. I don’t use ESPHome for high-level automation or multi-device coordination. That’s where Home Assistant or even Node Red still shines. But for device-specific behaviors—like button presses, countdown timers, or dusk/dawn triggers – having that logic on the device itself makes the whole system more resilient. No lag, no missed automations if those systems are offline.

When I’d Still Use Tasmota and When I’d Choose ESPHome

Switching from Tasmota to ESPHome takes time. There’s a learning curve to create the configuration files. But once you get the hang of it, the freedom to define exactly how your smart devices behave is game changing.

If you are looking for something to install on your first switch, Tasmota is still a great place to start. But if you reach the limits of what you can do with it, it might be time to switch over to ESPHome. Some things take effort, but with that effort you can build a smart home where every piece is smart on your terms.

Published on August 20, 2025

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Smart Apartment Renovation: Wiring Upgrades for a Smarter Home

When it comes to smart home upgrades, wiring is the unsung hero. Without a solid electrical foundation, your smart tech is only as reliable as the weak link in your power or network infrastructure.

Many older structures have poor or insufficient wiring for your modern needs. In my renovation, it was essential I modernized the electrical system and laying the groundwork for smart lighting, fans, Ethernet, and security—all while respecting building codes and future-proofing for the long haul. Bringing an apartment up to modern code starts with safety.

I will be covering each of these in more detail in future posts, and will provide recommendations and thoughts on specific items.

Why Wiring Matters in Old Buildings

The building I live in was constructed in the 1970s, and my new apartment—unlike others in the building—hadn’t been touched since then. That meant it required a ground up redo of the electrical wiring, beginning with GFCI.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) are required in areas with water exposure, like bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms. But they weren’t mandatory when the building went up, and even if a few had been added later, chances are they’re outdated. Today’s Smart Lock GFCIs, required since 2003, provide added safety by locking if the mechanism fails.

Full Outlet Replacement and Smarter Circuit Planning

Every receptacle in the apartment had to be replaced. Over time, as outlets age, plugs will not hold within them. Outlet placement was uneven and sparse, so I had additional outlets added to ensure consistent spacing across rooms.

More importantly, the electrician found that multiple rooms shared a single breaker—an overload risk waiting to happen. He split the circuits, rewired the panel, and even repositioned the breaker box to make space for slightly larger kitchen cabinets.

Let There Be Light—And Ceiling Fans

Like many older apartments, none of the main rooms had ceiling lights—just switched outlets. That changed. In 2025, LED disc lights have become a preferred option over traditional recessed cans (high hats). Why? They’re easier to install, offer better light distribution, and sit flush with the ceiling. Perfect for smart lighting systems.

We also installed junction boxes in the bedrooms, dining room, and entryway to allow for ceiling fans. In an apartment with baseboard heating and room air conditioners, fans play a key role: improving airflow, enhancing comfort, and even supporting better air quality.

Safety First: Wired Smoke and CO Detectors

Since ceilings were being opened up anyway, I had the electrician wire smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Hardwired systems are more reliable than battery-powered ones, and ensure that you don’t have to worry about battery failure. In New York, where I live, as of 2019, new and replacement smoke detectors must be either hardwired or powered by a battery with a ten year life. Replacing batteries is no longer an option if you are complying.

Building a Wired Backbone: Ethernet and Network Planning

When the walls are open, there is an opportunity to add not just new outlets, but the electrician also knew how to run ethernet cable. I didn’t go overboard with Ethernet jacks—each room has one drop, which limits placement flexibility, but this setup ensures stable wired connectivity and reduces Wi-Fi dependency. I had him run:

Dual Cat 6 cable drops in each bedroom and living room
Runs to both entrances for PoE security cameras
A ceiling drop in the dining room for a PoE wireless access point
A centralized network hub in the old linen closet, with added power and conduit to the provider junction outside

Everything terminates in that closet, giving me a homegrown mini-server closet if needed. I briefly considered a full rack setup… but let’s not get carried away (yet), although if you have the opportunity, get wires placed where you want them and future proof your home.

Modular Design for Marketability

Remember: Everything in this renovation must be removable or acceptable to future tenants.

Ethernet jacks are unobtrusive if unused
Cameras and access points can be disconnected or left unpowered and the access covered with a plate.
Fans can be skipped in favor of pendant lights or left off entirely
Network gear can be removed.

What’s Next?

This phase took the electrician about a week, and he returned after painting was finished to install the final fixtures. But with wiring and foundational infrastructure out of the way, the work for me is just beginning.

Subscribe for updates as this smart apartment transformation continues.

Published on July 4, 2025

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