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Category: Home Networking

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IPv6 Explained: Why Adoption Is Still Slow Decades Later

Most of us don’t just use the internet once a day — we’re constantly surrounded by connected devices. Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, even appliances. And that number keeps growing.

At the center of all of it is the basic Internet Protocol (IP), which is what allows devices to talk to each other.

The current version most of the internet still relies on is IPv4. The problem is that IPv4 only supports about

Most of us don’t just use the internet once a day — we’re constantly surrounded by connected devices. Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, even appliances. And that number keeps growing.

At the center of all of it is the basic Internet Protocol (IP), which is what allows devices to talk to each other.

The current version most of the internet still relies on is IPv4. The problem is that IPv4 only supports about 4,294,967,296 billion unique addresses — and in practice, even fewer than that.

  • Large blocks are reserved for special purposes
  • Early allocations gave organizations far more addresses than they needed
  • Devices are now always connected instead of sharing connections
  • Broadband adoption continues to expand globally

IPv6 has been around since the late 1990s and became a formal internet standard long before most people ever heard of it.  Despite this, adoption has not moved forward very quickly. This expands addressing to 340 undecillion total addresses. What’s an undecillion? 10 to the 36th power- a trillion trillion trillion.

IPV6 and IPV4 can coexist, but one is not backward compatible to the other. You can run a ‘dual stack’ connection, that connects over both versions. Usually this will be IPV6 with an IPV4 fallback.  A protocol called ‘Happy Eyeballs’ is used to pick the best option of the two.

Why Has IPv6 Adoption Been So Slow?

IPv6 was introduced in the late 1990s. We are now decades into its existence, and yet most home networks — and a surprising number of enterprise ones — still lean heavily on IPv4.

Yes, we “ran out” of IPv4 addresses on paper. But instead of forcing a painful transition, the industry engineered its way around the problem. Most users wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between using IPV4 or IPV6.

Network Address Translation

Network Address Translation (NAT) became the default. Instead of every device needing a public IP address, entire homes — and even large networks — now sit behind a single one. Your router quietly handles the translation, and for most users, it just works. It is only users who want to host their own services who care as much about having publicly routable IP addresses.

That one workaround removed the urgency that IPv6 depended on. If nothing is visibly broken, nobody is motivated to replace it. Businesses had little motivation to do so, leaving it as important to a much smaller group of people.

Internet Service Providers

Most Internet Service Providers support IPV6, but good luck getting support. Performance is inconsistent. So, your mileage as a customer may vary. Over the last few years, I have turned on and turned off IPV6 at various times, due to reliability issues, but despite limited adoption, it continues to get more reliable and hopefully will continue to do so in the future.

The one exception here is mobile. Mobile providers, especially in Asia, are going native IPV6 mostly due to the need for increasing address space. This is slowly making its way to carriers in the rest of the world. So, considering that, it may be what has caused home ISPs to improve, and may drive additional business adoption as well.

Major platforms like Google and Facebook already see a significant percentage of traffic over IPv6.

Advantages

IPv6 is objectively better in a lot of ways:

  • Vast address space
  • End-to-end connectivity
  • Simpler routing (in theory)

But here’s the problem: there’s no killer feature that users notice.

Switching to IPv6 doesn’t:

  • make your internet faster
  • improve your Wi-Fi
  • unlock some must-have app or other features

IPV6 can be faster than IPV4, but that isn’t strictly because of the protocol. It depends. You may find that one protocol or the other is faster depending on the route your traffic takes.

Should You Enable IPv6?

By default, whether you have a commercial router or a homebuilt one like I do, it is usually very easy to turn on IPV6. If it doesn’t immediately work, you may have to google and adjust a few settings for your ISP. At this point, you can judge for yourself whether or not it is beneficial. Keep it on unless you have issues and see what happens.

If you want a full experiment, turn off IPV4 just to see what happens. You may, like on mobile, not even notice.

Why has IPv6 adoption been so slow?
IPv6 adoption has been slow because IPv4 never actually stopped working. Technologies like NAT allowed networks to stretch limited IPv4 addresses, removing urgency. Since IPv6 offers few noticeable benefits to everyday users, most networks continue to run both protocols without fully transitioning.

Published on April 20, 2026
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UPS battery backup powering a modem and Wi-Fi router during a power outage
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Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems (Keep Your Internet Running During Power Outages)

If your internet connection disappears the moment the power flickers, the problem usually isn’t your internet provider.

It’s your power.

Most home networks rely on several small devices that all require electricity: a modem, a router, sometimes Wi-Fi access points, switches, or security cameras. When power fails, every one of those devices shuts off instantly.

A UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) solves this problem by providing instant battery backup. When electricity fails, the UPS switches to battery power automatically and keeps your networking equipment running.

Because routers and modems draw very little power, even a modest UPS can often keep your internet working for an hour or more.

Quick pick: For most homes, I would start with the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD. It has enough capacity for a modem, router, switch, access point, and a little room to grow without jumping to a giant UPS.

Do not plug in a laser printer, space heater, gaming PC, or anything high-draw unless the UPS is sized for it. For this guide, the goal is simple: keep the internet online when the power flickers or goes out.

Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems

If your goal is keeping your internet connection alive during a power outage, these UPS models provide reliable backup power and strong electrical protection.

Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems

If your goal is keeping your internet connection alive during a power outage, these are the UPS models I would consider first.

UPS Model Best For Capacity Why Pick It Check Price
CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD Best overall UPS 1000VA / 600W The best balance for most home networks: modem, router, switch, access point, and some room to grow. Check price on Amazon
APC BR1500MS2 Larger home networks 1500VA / 900W Better for network closets, multiple access points, switches, cameras, or a small rack. Check price on Amazon
CyberPower EC650LCD Best budget UPS 650VA / 390W A good low-cost pick if you mainly want to keep a modem and router online. Check price on Amazon
APC BE600M1 Small setups 600VA / 330W Compact, simple, and easy to tuck near a modem/router shelf. Check price on Amazon
Eaton 5S700LCD Premium reliability 700VA / 420W The one I would look at if build quality and power protection matter more than the lowest price. Check price on Amazon

Can a UPS Keep Wi-Fi Working During a Power Outage?

Yes. A properly sized UPS can keep your modem, router, Wi-Fi access point, and small network switch running during short power outages. The runtime depends on the size of the battery backup and how much equipment is plugged into it.

For many home setups, the goal is not to run the entire house. It is to keep the internet connection alive long enough for brief outages, remote work, smart-home devices, security cameras, and alerts to keep functioning.

If your internet provider’s equipment outside the home still has power, a UPS can often keep your home network online. If the neighborhood equipment is also down, the UPS may keep your router running but not preserve the internet connection.

My buying rule: if you only have a modem and router, do not overthink it. A compact 600VA–650VA UPS is often enough. If you have a switch, access point, security camera base station, or smart-home hub, I would usually move up to a 1000VA unit.

That is why the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is the safest pick for most people. It is not the cheapest option, but it avoids the common mistake of buying the smallest UPS and then immediately running out of outlets or runtime.

Why Routers and Modems Benefit From a UPS

Networking equipment consumes surprisingly little electricity.

Typical power usage looks like this:

  • Modem: 10–20 watts
  • Router: 10–25 watts
  • Wi-Fi access point: 10–20 watts
  • Small network switch: 5–20 watts

Because the power draw is low, UPS batteries can keep networking equipment running far longer than desktop computers or gaming systems.

A UPS also protects networking hardware from:

  • power outages
  • voltage drops
  • power surges
  • short power interruptions

If you work from home, rely on internet-connected security cameras, or have smart home devices that stop working when the network goes down, a UPS can make a bigger difference than you might expect.

If those devices are part of a second-home or vacation-home monitoring setup, the router and modem are not just convenience devices. They are a vital part of your alert system. I cover the broader setup in my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

Best Overall UPS for Routers and Modems: CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD

The CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is the one I would buy first for a typical home network.

It is more UPS than a bare modem-and-router setup strictly needs, but that is the point. Most home networks grow. A modem and router become a modem, router, switch, access point, smart-home hub, and maybe a camera bridge. A little extra capacity keeps the UPS useful after the next upgrade.

  • 1000VA / 600W capacity
  • Pure sine wave output
  • Automatic Voltage Regulation
  • LCD status display
  • Enough headroom for many modem/router/switch/access-point setups

Buy this if: you want one UPS that should handle a normal home network without being huge.

Skip it if: you only need the cheapest possible backup for one modem and one router.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best UPS for Larger Home Networks: APC BR1500MS2

The APC BR1500MS2 is the step-up pick for people whose “router setup” has turned into a small network closet.

If you have multiple access points, a switch, security-camera gear, a small NAS, or a rack shelf full of boxes, the extra capacity and outlets start to matter. This is probably overkill for a basic modem and router, but it makes sense once the network becomes something the household depends on.

  • 1500VA / 900W capacity
  • 10 outlets
  • Strong voltage regulation
  • USB charging ports
  • More room for network closets and larger setups

Buy this if: you have more than just a modem and router, or you want longer runtime.

Skip it if: your internet setup lives on a small shelf and only has two devices.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Budget UPS for Routers and Modems: CyberPower EC650LCD

The CyberPower EC650LCD is the practical budget pick.

If your problem is simple — brief outages knock out the modem and router, then everything takes several minutes to reboot — this is the kind of UPS that solves it without turning the project into a home-lab upgrade.

  • 650VA / 390W capacity
  • Compact design
  • LCD battery display
  • Energy-saving outlets

Buy this if: you want an affordable UPS for a modem and router.

Skip it if: you also need to support multiple access points, a PoE switch, a NAS, or a network closet.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Compact UPS for Small Setups: APC BE600M1

The APC BE600M1 is a small UPS designed for simple networking setups.

  • 600VA / 330W capacity
  • compact footprint
  • USB charging port
  • reliable APC design

If you only want to keep a modem and router running, this compact UPS can do the job without taking up much space. It is especially appealing if your equipment lives on a shelf, in a corner, or anywhere a larger UPS would be awkward.

Check the latest price

Best Premium UPS for Networking Equipment: Eaton 5S700LCD

The Eaton 5S700LCD is known for excellent build quality and strong electrical protection.

  • 700VA / 420W capacity
  • excellent surge protection
  • LCD display
  • durable internal components

If you want something a bit more robust than the usual consumer UPS options, Eaton is a respected name. This model is a good fit for buyers who care about electrical protection quality as much as runtime.

Check the latest price

How Long a UPS Can Keep Your Internet Running

UPS runtime depends on how much electricity your devices use.

Because routers and modems consume very little power, runtime can be surprisingly long:

  • small UPS: 30–60 minutes
  • mid-size UPS: 1–2 hours
  • larger UPS: several hours depending on load

If your ISP’s neighborhood equipment stays online during an outage, that can mean your internet keeps working long after the lights go out. Of course, if the provider’s own local infrastructure loses power, your UPS cannot fix that. But for many brief outages and localized electrical issues inside your home, it absolutely helps.

How Much UPS Capacity Do You Actually Need for a Router and Modem?

This is one of the biggest mistakes people make when shopping for a UPS. They assume they need a huge battery backup because that is what they would need for a gaming PC or home server.

For a modem and router, that usually is not true.

If your combined load is only 20 to 40 watts, even a modest UPS can provide meaningful runtime. The bigger units are useful if:

  • you want much longer runtime
  • you also want to power access points, switches, or cameras
  • you want extra overhead and flexibility

For a simple setup, the budget and compact models are often enough. For more complicated home networks, the larger units become easier to justify.

UPS Features That Matter for Networking Equipment

When choosing a UPS for routers and modems, these features matter most:

  • Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) to stabilize power fluctuations
  • pure sine wave output for sensitive electronics
  • surge protection for networking hardware
  • sufficient outlets for your modem, router, and other equipment

You do not necessarily need the most expensive UPS on the market, but you do want one that handles brownouts and voltage fluctuations gracefully. Those are often more common than full outages.

If you want to understand these features in more detail, see this guide to choosing a UPS with the right features.

If you are deciding between UPS models for a router, NAS, home server, or monitoring setup, that broader UPS feature guide goes deeper on AVR, PFC compatibility, USB shutdown, and replaceable batteries.

When a UPS Makes the Biggest Difference for Home Internet

A UPS battery backup is especially useful if:

  • power flickers frequently
  • you work from home
  • your security cameras rely on internet connectivity
  • your smart home devices depend on cloud services
  • your modem takes several minutes to come back online after a power outage

Even brief outages can lead to several minutes of downtime while a modem and router reboot. A UPS prevents that interruption entirely and can make your home internet feel much more reliable.

The same logic applies if your home network supports leak sensors, door and window sensors, smoke/CO alerts, or remote cameras. Those alerts are only useful if the network stays online long enough to send them. For more on that side of the setup, see my guides to Govee leak sensors, door and window sensors for a vacation home, and smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

What I Would Buy

For most people, I would buy the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD. It has enough capacity for a normal home network, gives you room to add a switch or access point, and avoids the regret of buying the smallest possible UPS.

For a very simple modem-and-router setup, I would save money with the CyberPower EC650LCD or APC BE600M1.

For a larger network closet, I would move up to the APC BR1500MS2.

The main thing is not to put your entire office on the UPS just because there are empty outlets. Use it for the networking gear that keeps the house online. That is where a UPS gives you the most value for the least battery drain.

Which UPS Is Best for Your Router and Modem?

If you want the best balance of price, features, and runtime, the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is the strongest overall choice for most people.

If you have a larger home network or want more runtime, the APC BR1500MS2 is a strong upgrade.

If you want a lower-cost solution, the CyberPower EC650LCD and APC BE600M1 are both sensible picks for simple setups.

And if you want a more premium UPS with a strong reputation for power protection, the Eaton 5S700LCD is worth a look.

For something as simple as keeping your router and modem online during a power outage, a UPS is one of the most practical upgrades you can make. Once you have one, it is hard to go back to watching your internet disappear every time the power blinks.

Published on March 29, 2026
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2.5G vs 10G Ethernet home network comparison with switch, NAS, and network cables
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2.5G vs 10G Ethernet: Which Home Network Upgrade Makes Sense?

Technology marches on, and keeping up with the times always raises the same question: When is an upgrade worth the cost? I remember when I first moved to gigabit networking. Prices have dropped since then, but it still surprises me how many devices in 2025 are stuck on older, slower Fast Ethernet. For homelab hobbyists, choosing anything below gigabit today would be unusual. Above that, the choices are: 2.5G, 5G, and 10G Ethernet.

Quick Answer: Should You Choose 2.5G or 10G Ethernet?

For most home networks, 2.5G Ethernet is the practical upgrade. It is cheaper, works over existing Cat 5e or Cat 6 wiring in many homes, and is fast enough for faster internet plans, Wi-Fi access points, and everyday file transfers.

10G Ethernet makes more sense when you have a NAS, homelab servers, large media files, video editing workflows, or multiple high-speed devices moving data across the local network. The best answer for many homes is not 2.5G everywhere or 10G everywhere, but a hybrid setup: 2.5G to most rooms and 10G links between the router, main switch, and NAS.

Upgrade Path Best For Main Tradeoff
2.5G Ethernet Most home users, faster internet, Wi-Fi access points, desktops Not as fast for NAS or server-heavy workflows
10G Ethernet NAS, homelab, large file transfers, video work, server links Higher cost, more heat, more careful hardware choices
Hybrid 2.5G + 10G Homes that want speed without rebuilding everything Requires planning switch uplinks and key devices

Future Proofing with the Right Cabling

As part of my recent renovations, I’ve been looking at ways to future-proof my infrastructure. The wiring I had installed is Cat 6, which has been the recommended standard for years and while there are newer options, Cat 6 supports higher data rates and distances, including 10G Ethernet up to 55 meters (180 feet)—more than enough for a residence.

But do you really need 10G? The cost-benefit question for home setups is still up for debate, though prices are slowly coming down.

The Internet vs. Local Speed

The first question is: what’s the speed of your internet connection? Even if it’s slower, there are still reasons to benefit from faster networking inside your home. For years, gigabit outpaced typical internet connections. But now, 1G and 2G internet plans are becoming more common—whether or not they actually deliver those speeds is another debate.

Why Faster Networking Still Matters

So why upgrade beyond gigabit? One reason is Network Attached Storage (NAS). I’ve written before about building a NAS. At the end of the day, a NAS is just a giant storage box—and when you’re pulling data from it, you want those files to arrive as fast as possible.

Serious homelab enthusiasts argue that now is the time to skip straight to *10G networking*. And there’s a solid case for that.

The Cost of 10G Hardware

A quick Amazon search shows this $33 PCI-E network card that uses a single SFP+ port. Dual SFP+ ports are only a few dollars more. I have an empty slot in my NAS, I could have this in there tomorrow. Switches with 10G ports used to be out of reach, but today I’m seeing options with 2.5G ports plus one or two SFP+ ports rated for 10G.

For those unfamiliar: SFP+ is a modular port that supports fiber optic or copper Ethernet modules, making it flexible for future upgrades.

A Hybrid Approach: 2.5G + 10G

My plan is to run a router with both SFP+ and 2.5G ports, with one of the 10G uplinks feeding a downstream 2.5G switch. That gives me:

  • A noticeable speed increase now
  • Flexibility to add faster devices later
  • The option to interconnect switches at 10G speeds

It’s not the full leap to 10G everywhere, but it’s a balanced, future-ready upgrade path for my homelab.

 

 

Published on October 9, 2025
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Illustration of a person monitoring POE security cameras using Frigate NVR software on a computer, with outdoor cameras mounted on a house and detection alerts shown on screen.
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POE Cameras and Frigate NVR: Why I Switched to Local Home Surveillance

During my recent renovation, I added two additional cameras to my new space, at the two points of ingress. This was something of a departure as these were also the first Power Over Ethernet(POE) cameras I’ve had installed, as I had someone on-site available who could run the cables cleanly.

I’ve tried a variety of ecosystems for cameras, both for myself and others. Many of them push you toward subscription-based cloud services, which features like video history, motion detection, and notifications only work fully if you pay monthly. Some of them barely provide any features without paying, despite the fact you bought the device.  Even when offering local options, this is often storage with a microSD card in the camera, which is clunky, slow, and unreliable.

That is why I decided to go with a network video recorder. A server that takes the feeds from all the cameras and stores the recordings. You can buy commercial NVRs you can purchase and install in your house, including some that integrate with the specific hardware cameras you bought, but I wanted a solution that aligned with my philosophy of self-hosted, privacy first smart home tech.

So I chose Frigate.

Quick Answer: Why Use POE Cameras With Frigate?

POE cameras and Frigate make sense if you want a local home-surveillance system that does not depend on a cloud subscription. Power Over Ethernet cameras are more reliable than Wi-Fi cameras, and Frigate can record video, detect people, cars, animals, and other objects, and let you tune alerts around the parts of your property you actually care about.

Choice Why It Matters
POE cameras More reliable than Wi-Fi cameras and powered through the network cable
Frigate NVR Local recording and object detection without relying on a cloud camera plan
Detection zones Reduce false alerts from sidewalks, streets, neighbors, or passing cars
Self-hosted storage Keeps recordings under your control instead of inside a camera company’s subscription
Frigate+ Optional model improvements without turning the whole system into a traditional cloud lock-in product

Why Frigate?

Frigate is an open-source NVR designed for real-time object detection all running on local hardware. It is deeply customizable and can be tuned to only record what matters to you – people, cars, or animals, depending on what zones and filters you decide.

For example, one of my outdoor cameras flagged every pedestrian across the street, which is well outside of the zone I am concerned about. I can narrow the zone to only my property, to dramatically reduce noise in footage and alerts.

Frigate recently added:

  • facial recognition
  • license plate recognition.
  • View-only user roles for shared access

Everything is processed locally, with no cloud dependency.

Frigate+: Smarter Detection, Optional Subscription

To improve detection, you can also subscribe to Frigate+, a $50/year subscription which offers better trained models for detection. These are trained by other users of Frigate. You can participate by submitting false positives and other information voluntarily. If you cancel, you get to keep the downloaded models, you just stop getting updates.

This helps support the developers and doesn’t lock you into a traditional subscription model.

Frigate Notifications

One gap in the core Frigate setup is the lack of built-in robust multi-platform notifications. That’s where another piece of software, Frigate-Notify, comes in. It offers all of the notification options I might want.

  • Rich notifications
  • Cross-platform delivery including mobile, desktop, and messaging apps
  • Fully customizable

Next Steps For My Frigate NVR

Inspired by how well the new system is performing, I plan to replace more of my older Wi-Fi cameras with wired POE models for improved reliability. Wired cameras streaming directly to my NVR reduces lag, improves reliability, and gives me full control over recording, storage, and alerts—without the cloud.

If you’re tired of cloud lock-in and unreliable Wi-Fi cams, and you want a privacy-respecting, smarter surveillance system, Frigate + POE may be the combo you’ve been looking for.

 

Published on September 8, 2025
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Home NAS server with drive bays and network cables, illustrating TrueNAS vs Unraid vs OpenMediaVault NAS software
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TrueNAS vs Unraid vs OpenMediaVault: Choosing NAS Software

I have gone through a lot of evolution of computer technology over the years, not only the technology, but my thinking. I remember my first server, which doubled as a NAS. It was a yellow full tower server system and had wheels . Why yellow? It was really inexpensive. But it was also really overbuilt for what I needed. I never filled all the bays and I never used it to its full capacity. And technology changed. I started building smaller, rather than overbuilding. I’ve gone from desktop, to laptop, to small PC, to mini PC, which is an evolution conversation in itself.

When my home built NAS died in the middle of the night some years ago, I ran to the store and bought a commercial NAS, because I was at the point in my life where I didn’t want to deal with another home build. So I went with a NAS and then a dedicated home server next to the NAS. And that was partly because the commercial NAS software was limiting and the manufacturer has stopped updating my model, but also because the hardware in NASes is always behind what you can get if you build it yourself. So, by investing in a NAS case, a motherboard, and using open-source, I can in future swap out the motherboard, upgrade the RAM, etc and continue…provided I keep to the same software platform.The lifespan is much longer.

I could run all my applications on the NAS, especially with the new hardware, but I want something that acts like an appliance…something that only is storage and storage related functions. I don’t want to clutter it with other things, even though it means another system to run server functions. Last time, I installed Linux and configured it. But there is software to make a computer a dedicated appliance, so it eliminated all the work I had to do to get everything working.

Quick Answer: Which NAS Software Should You Choose?

For a homebuilt NAS, the best software depends on what you want the box to do. I chose TrueNAS because I wanted a storage-first appliance with ZFS and a strong focus on data integrity. Unraid is often better if you want flexibility with mixed drive sizes and an easier app/server experience. OpenMediaVault is a good free option if you want something lighter and more traditional without paying for Unraid.

NAS Software Best For Main Tradeoff
TrueNAS Storage-first NAS, ZFS, data integrity, snapshots Less flexible with mismatched drives and can feel more appliance-like
Unraid Mixed drive sizes, easy expansion, apps, home-server flexibility Commercial license and a different storage model than traditional RAID/ZFS
OpenMediaVault Free, lightweight NAS setup on standard Linux May require more tinkering depending on plugins and use case

There are three popular options for NAS software…TrueNAS, Unraid, and OpenMediaVault.

TrueNAS has a commercial and a community version. It comes in the classic Core version, based on FreeBSD and the newer Linux based Scale. I get the impression impression Scale is the future for the project. Scale allows for containers and virtual machines if you want to run your applications on top of it. For the drives, it offers ZFS and the ability to deploy object storage similar to Amazon’s S3. ZFS is an incredibly robust filesystem.

Unraid, by comparison, is also commercially supported, with a license cost of $49 to $249, which includes the software. The most expensive membership at $249 is lifetime, which means updates for life, and the others offer updates for a year with a fee to upgrade after that. Even with no updates, some security patches are still offered for the older versions. The advantage of Unraid is it can manage drives that vary in size, speed, brand, and filesystem…so no RAID technology. Instead, it uses a dedicated parity drive, and offers a cache drive for speed.

Openmediavault is somewhere closer to Unraid in its simplicity, but has no commercial cost. It seems to be in the middle of the option here and can veer toward the Unraid feature set or the TrueNAS ones.

I ended up with TrueNAS, because I wanted the features it offered for data storage.

That choice also fits how I separate my setup: the NAS should mostly be storage, while other services can live on separate server hardware. For the networking side of that build, see my guide to 2.5G vs 10G Ethernet for a home network.

I’ll be talking more about that, but setting it up took more time to restore my data than it did to set it up. It is now handling 100% of the file serving the previous server did. I still have backup and other redundancy functions to configure, but I’m 100% back online.

Published on May 31, 2024
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